Richard B
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Everything posted by Richard B
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Slight play in the wheel bearings is correct. Not like modern cars with sealed pack bearings. You can adjust the play by taking the dust cap off, removing the split pin, adusting the play by tightening the nut, and then refitting the split pin and cap. Details should be in the workshop manual. 1/8th of an inch sounds about right. the wheel must rotate free. If you over tighten the nut then the bearings will fail prematurely.
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That_Man wrote:Richard it's worth checking that the dissy drive gear it correctly orientated, if your looking for silly mistakes, most of us have done that one :B There's a gem in the 1500 Spitfire workshop manual, shows where the dizzy drive gear goes with the slot at 90 degrees to the block. (so we did) Then under the electrical section, there are two different drawings; one with the slot at 90 degrees for the 45DE (electronic) one with the slot at 45 degrees for the 45D (so we took it apart and corrected it) ;D
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Alex wrote:Dont forget if its a really silly mistake we all want know what it was ;D Battery charged up on Sunday night, monday. When I got home from work Alison and I tried again, turned the key couple of coughs and splutters and..... she ran fine. :P I had already timed the ignition so I knew that was ok. Ok now for the silly mistake, I asked Alison to move the Dolomite so she could put some bits and pieces back on and take it for a test spin, Alison "Dad, the clutch feels funny" Me "Did you check that the pin on the clutch actuating arm is not located in the slave cylinder, when you fitted it" Alison "Oh" Two and a half hours later, the pin was in the correct location after the gearbox had been removed and replaced. ps. Alison is now looking for a set of +20 pistons for her engine as it needs a rebore.
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Cheers Alec, thats what we did (I think it was 40thou we measured it at). Bloody car wont start, so I got to rethinking the previous work, looking for mistakes. Oh well we shall see.
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According to the Spitfire 1500 workshop manual, set valves 7 & 8 to 80thou and then rotate the cam until valves are on the rock. With the engine on No1 TDC. However when we do this there does not appear to be a point when they both are opwning/closing (ie just touching the rockers), seems to always be some clearance. What are we doing wrong? :-/ As I am concerned we have timed the cam wrong. nb Standard Dolomite/Spitfire 1500 Cam.
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I prefer the 2 ton version with 6 wheels, easier to move around as it is still on 4 wheels when dismantled. This is the one I bought; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-TON-HYDRAULIC-ENGINE-CRANE-HOIST-LIFT-BRAND-NEW-/120643752243?pt=UK_Lifting_Moving_Equipment&hash=item1c16ed9133 The 2 ton limit means it still has a 1/2 ton rating at full reach, easier for fitting Triumph 6 pots. 2402 wrote:You want one that comes with a leveller. I have heard good reports of how useful a leveller is, its on my shopping list.
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Greeks wrote:if you have a piece of flexible hose in the fuel line ( as i do) you can just clamp the line. or put a plain shank bolt into the rubber hose if one end is free.
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No, its part of the assembly. If you are having a recon box done then acquire an OD box and have that rebuilt. The O/D units are normally long lasting.
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4874 wrote:Which differential has a 3.27 Non-O/D GT6's Popular with people fitting 2500 engines in small chassis cars. okay, ok and overdrive GT6's in Switzerland for some reason. :P
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firebobby wrote:A good idea is to take the wire roll in doors in the winter as they will start to rust if in your shed or garage and when that's happened, it's a right bugger to weld with. :) I found storing the wire in the bottom cabinet under the cooker worked really well!
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Yes but not that impressed with it. For the Stag engine I built one that bolts to the sides rather than the endplate.
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I know a friend who had a Herald bonnet blasted. Afterwards it was so rippled all it was good for was scrap. DA and or paintstripper.
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If you start putting too much power through the drivetain you will have to consider upgrading, trasmission, brakes, suspension. If staying standard, keep the power around the 150bhp
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Chris Witor sells the banjo bolt in stainless. I know he does reconditioned manifolds for the saloons. He may be able to help you out by getting your GT6 one done if all else fails.
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A good old style monkey wrench may well work. or weld a nut onto the sheared bolt. The heat helps free it up.
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Personally the only acceptable conversions are a Triumph straight 6 2.5 PI (plus abit of work will get around a Stag 3 litre power) or a Rover V8 (did I really say that? :-/)
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Probably find it's rusted in place. Shear it, then try to remove it when the housing is off. New bolt and maybe a helicoil? :-/
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Keep an eye on eBay. they do appear there S/H.
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MarkDeTriomphe wrote: Do I assume that broken casings are only the result of something inside letting go first? It was in my case. I think a tooth (or something else) broke and then jammed against the casing, BANG! Ooops there's a hole in my diff and no drive. :'(
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13/60, small bearing 1300 rev'er. Put a Spitfire MkIII cam in and it's a luv'ly little engine. 1500 Torque monster slugger (does not like reving, but will pull....) Whats the final drive ratio in the Standard? Spitfire MkIII is 4.11 Spitfire 1500 is 3.63 The 1500 will not like rev'ing long and often ask anyone who has had one in a Herald with standard transmission. Really needs an oil cooler, an overdrive and/or a low ratio final drive.
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http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/engineoils/20w50-engine-oil/?521770500&0&cc5_251 VR1 is at £29.98 at Europarts. with free delivery. With 30% discount till midnight tonight £20.99 Code MIDMONTH30
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http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/engineoils/20w50-engine-oil/?521770500&0&cc5_251 VR1 is at £29.98 at Europarts. with free delivery. With 30% discount till midnight tonight £20.99 Code MIDMONTH30
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I can see side 'shrouds' attached to the bonnet but do they seal against the sides of the radiator? :-/
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2572 wrote:I installed the block above the rad in an effort to force air to go through and not past the rad. Nice radiator, however I would still fit shrouds to the sides and top to stop air going around it instead of through it.