Pete Lewis
-
Posts
1,687 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by Pete Lewis
-
Stromberg 150CD butterfly/throttle flap screws
Pete Lewis replied to daver clasper's topic in Engine
dave not too much force is needed if the screws have a split end a small punch and tap with small hammer is all you need just enough to stop a loose screw coming out and going into the engine. just a small deformation is all you need , youre not riveting the titanic. some thread locks dont like petrol need to read the label. the plates are shaped and chamfered to make a full closure , make sure there is no daylight thro the throat and all are nicely centred and pivot and close nicely before you finally tighten the screws Pete -
And to add you should lock the coupling , to apply the torque , not wind up the transmission like two bolts thro the coupling holes and a bar between them. pete
-
Temperature compensators have a set of tests to correctly set them they are an attempt to aid emissions especialy to lean the idle mix when the engine bay is very hot it will also speed up,the idle a little Its imprtant these little devices are closed at normal temperature or you will never set the idle mixture if they are partly open so undomthe 2 screws and remove the unit, there should be 2 0rings to seal the inserted end to the carb body the small plastic plunger must be seated in its case, so tighten the small nut to re load the bimetal operating stripmto get the littel sod closed, if it never opens its not a problem you just dont want it open when it should be closed as this bypasses the throttle plates through a small drilling direct into the manifold, the gaskets have a port that must align putting the gasket on upside down will stop its operation and also make it sealed and inoperative easy to check and sort
-
Just wondered that it is a std 3 rail bo pete
-
And have a careful look at the cam gear face , any mis shapes here can make awful noises even if the bolts are tight found one where someone had centre popped the gear cam face what a racket from so small defect Pete
-
Agree it looks correct thinking out the box , whats the gearbox number prefix All very strange , I dont see a solution staring out pete
-
Ahh ha .. dump that idea then ..Ha ! still dont see what all the plates are for on the big version,, its semmingly been modified to align something ...but what ?? Pete
-
The mount with the bracketry attached is not normal ??(my veiw), I wonder why this has been made up one thing that I dreamt of was there are a variety of mounting plates that bridge the chassis rails For 4 cyl, and 6cyl etc just a thought edit just realised you have a viteese with a J type that means nothing is standard So the mountt has to be made to fit No parts diagrams will show that configuartion for a 6cly pete pete
-
I have never seen the rh version only the lh you show makes me wonder if the correct chassis plate is fitted ..??? pete
-
TRGB had a lot of slave boxes, as your lay spindle was in pieces the cluster is probably stuffed in the needle bore so a slave box may get the parts needed to make 1 out of 2 if you get stuck give me a call i have most bits but no clusters we can rebuild it in a morning if you want a trip to sunny luton Pete
-
No not the push rod, you need to pack it behind the withdrawl lever pivot post this is a light tap in fit inside the clutch hsg. this raises the sperical pivot and compensates for the brg being too thin. one or two plain washers under it makes a lot of difference pete
-
there are thin throwout bearing at 15mm thick the orig was 19mm thick this makes the lever late and you loose mechanical advantage, cure is new brg or remove the spherical post and sit a washer under it to raise the fulcrum point a little. in general the Vitesse6 1600 had spring clutch and Mk1 Mk2 had diaphragms dont mix the plates up diaphragm has a thinner disc plate than the coil unit nipped in a vice diaphram disc thickness 20.270/0.290" GT6 wound yarn vitesse raybestos coli disc 0.330" wound yarn
-
the book pre load is set and checked with the crown wheel out. its not an as assembled pre load, yours is a collapsible spacer so mark the nut postion and refit to the same place, you could measure the pre load to turn the whole diff assy, and check to see if its the same on refitting the nut depends how far you want to stripdown.
-
On a 4 cyl its possible to poke and prod the lever into position to realign the hole and drop a bolt in from the top without removing the box This will fix it till you do a full repair, with new tolerance bush and a pin with a head on it amd a olt with a plain shank will last years never to fall out again. heck Don it takes a bit for the sperical post to jump out on the 6 cly, thats unlucky on many 6 cyls the throwout bearing is too thin at 15mm (should be 19mm)and the 6 pot post needs to be a bit longer to keep the lever ratio correct like add a couple of washers under it to stand out a bit more.
-
The withdrawl lever pivot pin has most likely dropped out , this allows the throwout to over travel the slave runs out of travel and you cant depress the pressure plate its a very common failure if you look at the clutch hsg drivers side youmcan justnsee thenhole the pin fits in it has no head , itsnlocated by a tolerance ring wichnis a crinkle spring steel bush , this breaks up the pin drops out its a regular fault, replace with a pin or bolt (not a setscrew) with a head on it ...cant fall out pete
-
wheel } -< --<<--------- diff if that helps my manuals show the inboard seal as a double lip seal states ' Lips' fitted 'Trailing' Pete
-
the inhibitor switch is set with poor shim washers , or if nowt else bend the bracket a little if set to just about make contact it doesnt take much temperature and tower /cam / bracket wear and tear to allow drop out when hot some of the SA range switches can be uncrimped and cleaned out they can be very 'green' inside worth a try Pete
-
My book says give 4 pumps not 20 The only hole ? Im aware of is the drain for any excess out via the backplate as you have found but this is really for leakage disposal away from the shoes rather than a filling guide pete
-
Sticky tape to a postcard Pete
-
The piston lifter needs a very light touch , lift till you just feel contact with the piston and then raise about 2 mm note what happens, do not just yank the thing up, its all light touchy feely any accelation will richen the mixture as that the dash pot doing its job, it acts as the accelerater pump to loose flat spots if its toppednup with engine oil, not cats pee. it takes agoodnfew miles to burn off town and choked start driving or just turn the mixture leaner till the revs start to drop then back off 1/4turn to return to its best running position any idea they need to be set rich is wildly misguided If you have piston springs fitted to a 1600 carb it will always be too rich when running With std needles, needs the heavy damper weight what needles are fitted ???? pete
-
think give burlen or similar a call its generally part of the biased needle assy http://burlen.co.uk/ Pete
-
And to add the 1600 does not have a piston spring but does have a thicker heavier diaphragm retaining ring a spring will make it run rich across the range this has all the feelings of the dreaded rubber sliver syndrome, best to remove the needle valve and look behind it, while the pipes are off spurt some fuel into a jar , see what arrives take care with refit or you make some more make sure all the front face ports are not obstructed with gaskets or air box fitting. Some floats have two valve arms and the float can be fitted upside down with ig effects on float operation even if the 18mm is set pete
-
essential in a tool roll,, bit of soft wire,, rubber bands and tyraps , string etc Ha ! gets you or someone else out of trouble Pete
-
the link to tssc may be to the long dead website , but talking to Garth tssc shop has never sold wear sleeves as far as he recollects they are also made by SKF http://www.skf.com/uk/products.....r-sleeves/index.html its not a bodge we used them on truck axles years ago on production to enable serviceable economic repairs in later life Pete
-
the link to tssc may be to the long dead website , but talking to Garth tssc shop has never sold wear sleeves as far as he recollects they are also made by SKF http://www.skf.com/uk/products.....r-sleeves/index.html its not a bodge we used them on truck axles years ago on production to enable serviceable economic repairs in later life Pete