Pete Lewis

Do the simple first  this sounds a classic case of inhibitor switch adjustment theres no conection between gearbox selection amd overdrive operation other than wires down the gear stick (not in this case) and the 3rd 4th inhibitor switch Bet if you   side load the gear stick you will make this worse or better so remove a shim  washer from under the switch and retest if  the switch is bracket mounted it may need some gentle adjustent Pete

all door internals are a nightmare to describe, are both rollers in the glass bottom channel ? there is some adjustment and reckon there's a stop on the door carcass, if you remove the glass its pretty unlikely you will remove  and relocate the channel  its tight and been on there for years the rubber gets a real grip , do also check the NVD frame is secured they are height adjustable to a small degree. the winder channel can be found to have rotted through and becomes separated , sorry not much help here Pete

we painted sons first  rust and nappy yellow mini with Japlac and a brush finished with a sponge roller amazing  red with white roof  in 1hour transformation  bit orange peely but tidy.   its all down to what you want bit more thinners would have maybe improved , but adds runs into the job. it lasted 4 years

its much easier if you have lumbago and varifocal glasses  !!!!   Hmm  well done Pete

Most shafts grumble rumble vibrate or knock a loud  noise in the body seems more like exhaust or elsewhere is fouling somewhere when off load ,  also check the engine mounts for seperation.

if you can refit the rack so the wheel box runs on unused teeth you may recover some drive its stick card needle on the spline drive and pull out the rack , turn the wheel boxe 180deg refit rack and hopefully the needle is now opposite from where you started. the teeth can wear out . the tubes can be loose and the rack can wear,  it takes a lot of load so doesnt last 50 years . you can remove the  motor gear box cover plate and turn the rack over  but they are available incut to length to suit. wheel boxes are available but you need the ones with correct number of teeth or the sweep will be wrong unless you change the motor gear to match up. its all easy to see whats going on with varifocals and feet in the air  ....not  ...well its not raining pete

always check the gasket follows the base contours  many kits have a full set of evolved gaskets  its easy to fit one and find theres a corner not sealed as the gasket  shapes have small changes over the evolved years just a thought  Pete

lost motion can also be the tubes are loosly clamped to the motor union, or  the wheel box clamps if the tube moves you loose stroke./gain free travel these guys may be able to supply what you need    http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/category/wiper-systems-and-parts/ Pete

Some sumps do have a stiffener plate to minimise distortion, but after all these years its not a major problem,   a ball pein hammer and mallet to reverse the distortion will work well for the next 40 years power take off coverplates on our exchange truck  gearboxes used this technique since the 1960s to revieve used plates its common when sheet steel and thick paper   gaskets are mated together

  Bear in mind they wont fit a cd or cds carb with adjustable jet only those later ones cdse >  with top needle adjusters

On a refill  i would do a simple dip stick calibration  just check that adding the correct quantities ties up with the marks on the stick,   pere

being exchange i guess they are 'reconditioned'  certainly the faces had been skimmed.  I often feel i should drop them off and see how they have  lets say'bedded in '   but afraid thats a job way down the list , but with no rumbles whine or whatever Ive left them alone I nearly took them off to fit the new stag  handbrake expanders , but just released the hsg to get the strut through the gap and fight the springs on. the hand brake is still wonderful   , they are identical except the bell crank is 15mm longer and  being available much cheaper than 2000 ones Pete

as far as i could see they are common across the range the changes being circlip or staked UJ cups. they come poly wrapped from i guess  from a supplier elsewhere.  used JP due to cheaper , + quick surcharge returns float did concern me   the 'new' hubs seemed to have pre load, quite damped to turn , anyway theyre on and done about 1500 m without any side effects showing so far .  give it another 10 years an we will know the answer if it gets that far and were all running direct drive  electric rubbish  Grrrr!!!  with no shafts to ponder. Pete

I looked long and hard at this when refurbing the rear suspension and sticky shafts got  exchange units  from j paddocks they are now £210 incl  the 100 surcharge no troubles so far  and  polly bushes a good   clean and regrease the slip joints has  cured the  roll torque twitch   pete

The outer case on j sols can be a rattle fit  its asloppy fit held on by the 3 pins ive foud the inner piston does rattle when you give it a good shake no idea how you remove the spirol pins   to remove the coil cover    its not exactly serviceable dont mend it to destruction

i always use an odd bit of wood to sight gauge the gap between back plate and C hsg.  its easy to think its square when its actually miles out , use anything to judge the gap is equal all round and in she pops   Pete

its angles just to get the air out as there is no bleed on the cylinder do check the brake pedal is returning fully and with foot off  you have some free slop on the master cyl pushrod if there is no free play you build up pressure , undo a bleed nipple releases the pressure till a few applications later , things that affect the pedal return   as Bill has posted   badly set brake light switch seized pedal pivot pins or the servo diaphragm pushrod is binding in its hole thro the canister weak spring on the air valve return just some thoughts Pete

a check of the quill shaft  bearing might reveal a worn whining  oiled greaseless  bearing !! Pete

the actual jacking points are the rear stud under the sill . thats assuming you trust the bodywork,   as mine are missing .not fitted when rebuilt in the 90s ive always used the trailing arm under the spring , its safe and visible or you need  to leave hanging,     place  axle stands on the cross member under the arm pivots Pete

so these are adjusted from down the dashpot, and will be a biased needle ,, dont think  you will get a 1600 needle to suit it, you may get away with 2ltr spec needles but may need to remove the spring , they are quite different in profile whats on the car now ??? Pete

Cant open then on my tablet , but  cd150 is correcf base carb for a 1600 you need needle 7B delete the piston spring and add a heavy diaprhagm weight stick to oe air box you wont get a needle to run on pancake filters look up the weight in places like burlen fuel sysytems a damper spring will make it too rich Use engine oil in the damper you, do have the stromberg manifold ??  Same as mk 1 2ltr. I converted my solex down drafts to  strombergs   you gain aprox 12bhp.

2 ltr vitesss and gt6 all use a type 16 or 16pb caliper  you cant fit 16 to a car  with type 14 as the mounting bolt centres are a tad different  you need the caliper mount to match, and they are hard to find 1600 used type12 and any upgrade is worthwhile from memory the master cyl was 5/8" on type 14  and 0.7 of type 16  with or without servo.

we have suppliers of convertible glass in UK 703795 but all show saloon  703756  as not available   could a polycarbonate sheet be cut to suit ??? I have used a elec drill and glass polishing cheap kit to refurb some numpty wiper scores on my laminated screen of the 2000  which worked surprisingly well on old glass if the glass is toughened you cant recut or grind down or it blows out. Pete

we have suppliers of convertible glass in UK 703795 but all show saloon  703756  as not available   could a polycarbonate sheet be cut to suit ??? I have used a elec drill and glass polishing cheap kit to refurb some numpty wiper scores on my laminated screen of the 2000  which worked surprisingly well on old glass if the glass is toughened you cant recut or grind down or it blows out. Pete

the spanner is a thin walled 1"af  , the roll pins  are in the case to hold the sol base to the valve body, not all J types have them depends on age.  the sol case may be a bit of a slack fit , if you turn the sol. by gripping the case you can tear the pins off,  hence the silly spanner . mine did all sorts of odd ins and outs without any preference as to when or how, it was the sol. inner piston 0 rings in Marcus's  post the small   10mm circlip needs removing and tap the inner shuttle out as it can be stuck,  a shake of the sol. will rattle the piston  if its free Pete