Pete Lewis
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Everything posted by Pete Lewis
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leave it all alone Pete
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i was thinking door hinges , locks , throttle linkages , handbrake lever and ratchet, and all things generally need de squeaking and always get forgotten , the list is endless but a regular squirt keeps the abandoned and often hidden things running remarkable more smoothly so its a john wayne stance with grease in one hand and oily mitts in the other Pete
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i was thinking door hinges , locks , throttle linkages , handbrake lever and ratchet, and all things generally need de squeaking and always get forgotten , the list is endless but a regular squirt keeps the abandoned and often hidden things running remarkable more smoothly so its a john wayne stance with grease in one hand and oily mitts in the other Pete
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Thats a good result tip oil everything that moves where ever its hiding pete
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Thats a good result tip oil everything that moves where ever its hiding pete
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And to add it stops the door lifting and disengaging the cam lock from the striker as it is sprung to close the 'gap' its quite important its free and the spring returns the wedge , springs fail and are not available, I have with a bit of reforming managed to repair some with springs from an assortment box or even the odd retractable ball pen. pete
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And to add it stops the door lifting and disengaging the cam lock from the striker as it is sprung to close the 'gap' its quite important its free and the spring returns the wedge , springs fail and are not available, I have with a bit of reforming managed to repair some with springs from an assortment box or even the odd retractable ball pen. pete
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If there is no oil drips down from behind the flywheel just go 'great' and leave it all alone its working fine pete
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If there is no oil drips down from behind the flywheel just go 'great' and leave it all alone its working fine pete
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Scrolls are good they never wear out flywheel off is easy, to centalise the scroll hsg if its needed is just equally space some feelers between hsg and crank, you can do it simply with the engine in situ , certainly does not need the crank out you would only need a new hsg. If it had been fouled by the crank and damaged if you have some feeler strip you run it round the crank but 3 similar feelers will do the job very easily, From experience it will not need any attention, they may have some misting around the hsg, normal. like gearbox front scrolls if parked on the side of Mount everest they can leak as can over filling,
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Scrolls are good they never wear out flywheel off is easy, to centalise the scroll hsg if its needed is just equally space some feelers between hsg and crank, you can do it simply with the engine in situ , certainly does not need the crank out you would only need a new hsg. If it had been fouled by the crank and damaged if you have some feeler strip you run it round the crank but 3 similar feelers will do the job very easily, From experience it will not need any attention, they may have some misting around the hsg, normal. like gearbox front scrolls if parked on the side of Mount everest they can leak as can over filling,
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the uprights only fail due to lack of oil bath and corrosion sets in and cracks emanate from there. being so unreliable ??? makes you wonder why they have lasted all these years probably with far less failures than modern ball joints and with the trunnion less you need to keep them well lubricated and also very Clean or they will also wear out ,much better suited on a track than covered in every day road debris and when someone decides where to cross the line with the latest ideas on modified cars is this a step you need to add to the confusion Pete
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if the ujs are cross pins and cups you wont solve a seized cup needle roller with any oiling certainly on many makes of cars this lumpy wind up steering is always down to the column couplings seized . Pete
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this does seem more column uj/flexibles than rack, but you must reduce the rack shift , re clamp or new rubbers etc. Pete
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the caged plates are very thin and doesnt take much to strip the threads , they dont like a lot of work, ive tapped oversize in 8mm metric and 3/8unf , if in real trouble you can hole saw the a post and get a socket with a nut on the back of the plate, bit extreme , if its the door captive you can with the cards off fiddle a nut on the back , you may need to drill through the cage and with bigger bolts you need to open up the hinge holes , it will restrict some adjustment movement. Pete
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if the fork had dislocated from the carrier i guess the x shaft would slide left/right as the carrier is about all that locates it. roll pin or dowel bolt seems favourite . but the dowel bolts a always feindishly tight and pretty hardend things . if the roll pin had failed i reckon the lever would show signs of falling off. its shaft cant see any size of slave variation giving you what youve found ., could give operational hic ups but not all that lost /loose lever travel Pete
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Bob you mean the locking lever handles either side or the 948 style centre of bonnet lifting handle ??? Pete
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if you are rebuilding the car maybe a workshop manual on your christmas wish list would aid the investment ??? Pete
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No they dont do gearboxes just specialise in all the overdrives dave twigger will talk you through any problem for free. pete
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Thats good no matter how much i ramble on about it many miss the little sod hidden inside dont know what else maybe a call to dave twigger at od spares rugby http://www.odspares.com/
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Straight .... the other one is bent of they have flats worn on you can drill them out and weld in a clevis pin as a repair if the throwout is only 15mm thick add a washer under the lightly pressed in spherical post this realigns the lever as orig bearing was 19 mm thick all the losses add up poor action. if the carrier has worn by the lever pins ,remove the anti rotaion pin and drill elswhere to use some unworn groove pete
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Not much more I can dream up , it still has all the snags of inhibitor messing up , how about you make up a bypass lead and toggle switch to prove its completely eliminated Just dont use it in 1 2 or reverese with the od engaged Nang did you remove the J solenoid inner plunger, it should rattle if you the shake the sol firmly. they only seem to supply O rings for the outer body not the piston valve one hidden inside just a thought pete
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mazfg is Dtype on the 2000 its J type, i found the inner piston in the solenoid was sticking , needs a thin 1"af spanner to undo the sol, dont grip its case you can wreck it, and remove the small 10mm circlip inside and pop the piston out for a good clean and all intermittent mind of its own solved dont need to drain the oil either . mazfg, have you tested the holding coil current should pull in at 10 amps and the switch to 0.5 amps , theres a switch mechanism in the end of the solenoid can be very corroded over the years ( some later ones are solid state you cant service the contact)
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was that on the gearbox being operated by its cam or switch on bench ? Pete
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this switch can give lots of interrupted if not making good plunger pressure , its only a bell push inside and they can be quite corroded if its a simple crimped case you can disassemble and clean but some later ones are sealed for life what ever that gives. the fact it plays up differently in 3rd to what happens in 4th is got to be selection related not overdrive related the OD doesnt know what gear youre in Pete