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Pete Lewis

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Everything posted by Pete Lewis

  1. there should not be any springs to get in the fitting zone is this a coil spring or what   is the spring in the gearbox the overdrive , where is it coming from any chance of a photo?? heres  view of OD components http://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mkiii-overdrive-kit-continued-3
  2. Just what spring  is causing the problem Is this is just mating an assembled  Dtype  OD to the gearbox adaptor housing ? pete
  3. this is the old utopia or compromise problems we all have to make guess you have to make a balance between costs anticipated mileage there's little point in spending fortune on a rebuild and only do 500 miles a year think most of us have fell into the  'you get what you pay for'  trap and the poor quality of some copies of parts hers the top ten from ebay  ??? http://www.ebay.com/gds/Top-10-Bearing-Manufacturers-/10000000205161072/g.html Pete
  4. I have a member in SKF  just at the bottom of my road,   They dont  like to the outer with snap rings these days     Pete
  5. may have been sealed with a loctite type product by a previous repair  i like the stuff but it can be a sod if it glues removable parts into a leak free permanent fixing glad its  out Pete
  6. this  reluctance to exit  has happened before but cant remember which forum Pete
  7. Makes you wonder if a hole saw through the tunnel would give easier access   Unless you have very long thin fingers   its not the best designed location. ive a few jobs on mine like check quill shaft, prop uj and gearbox jumps out of 1st so must remember to check mine when its off. anytime now   pete
  8. Yes the inhibitor switch needs some adjustment  so its live in 3rd and 4th bit of wear and tear and it doenst always make contact , Often giving the gear stick a pull to one side will make the switch work which just proves a little de shimming of the switch is needed pete
  9. You have taken the locating bolt out ?? of the casing   pete
  10. Remember making a  steel spacer tube , which flattened to make a crude  removal  socket , the speedo should pull out when the  locating spigot screw is removed ifs anot a press fit but does have a o ring which may stick pete
  11. yes they hold the rear end up   just a few inches above the baulkhead , the rest of the time they are slack
  12. Jack on the crank pully and when sumps off a bar across the chassis rails Not easy to block up the mounts from where they fit the turrets pete
  13. Jack on the crank pully and when sumps off a bar across the chassis rails Not easy to block up the mounts from where they fit the turrets pete
  14. We used a linear race clutch   cable which terminated in a similar fasion  similar to aircraft control lines pete
  15. Theres a screw from the front face? That locks it in place, need to make up a threaded drag to pull the assy out you can fit a higher capacity pump      done that pete
  16. you are sure its a D type  solenoid O/s  not J type solenoid N/s  as J types planet gears are not marked justa  thought    Pete
  17. The marks are not very clear, a short etched line on the carrier and a etched or a small dot on the end of the tooth,  a good dry clean and mag glass may help if the planet assy has been replaced then I dont know if spare parts are marked for best running there marks are there to make each pinion take the same load or one can seemingly do all the work and the other  2 take a bit of a rest. pete
  18. does it only do this when foot is ion clutch under load.    thinking of thrust washer problems..,    press the pedal does the crank shift forwards a few thou  or something more excessive?
  19. Sorry dont remember,but  the grill is close to touching the radiator frame Has the grill side surrounds on the bonnet been pushed rearwards , you know the underider covers the height and front rear sliding link adjustments,  and the  slots in these should be uppermost and be clamped by the fixings and bonnet pivot bolt in  the single hole pete
  20. from memory had one like that and could not get it to seat  or stay put , it never matched the top of the screen frame  very well  , i used a self adhesive firm flat  foam in the end , worked fine for years  about 5mm thick 25mm wide  or there abouts . Pete
  21. Give Bern a call at TSSC Hq there are sectioned engines in the  collection  but may not have the 13/1500 pete
  22. I doubt you have the screws bludgened into riveting obscurity ,  if the discs are not central and dont seat nicely when closed undo the screws half a turn to release them and retighten with the idle screws backed off , throttles fully closed off re nip the two screws all is not lost pete
  23. That sounds a good plan I can nearly hear it running pete
  24. Ues anything in a vice you can steady the screw head onto and give the dimpled end of the thread a light tap to lightly bruise it  youre not riveting the screw , just enough deformation to stop a loose screw escaping into the engine,  amd if it did it would probably be pass through without any internal damage a 5/16nut is a different piston wrecking option,  a small brass screw is lesser problem you only need a light tap    youre not trying to repair the Titanic. pete
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