Pete Lewis
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Everything posted by Pete Lewis
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if you take the channel out and decide to remove the brackets as the felt is trapped by the rivets do make a sketch or take a photo as these are easy to re assemble and find however careful you are that the brackets refit upsidedown wrong way round and defy any normal strong tea to get them back how it should be they are devious little s*ds you also need a small diameter long nose pop rivet nozzle Pete
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On a J type its good to strip the inner piston out of the solenoid, a small 10mm circlip and knock out the hidden inner piston valve plunger, yuo need a thin wall 1"af spanner, if youmturn the case you can wreck the solenoid. ep oils are generally required due to the tooth design and bearing loads, Rootes cars use engine oil as an example Triumphs especially the small chassis 1 or 3 rail wont last the big saloon /TR box is far more bullet proofed by design, the overdrive is designed to run on engine oil but shoild be fine on a 80/90ep and was accepted by laycock and triumph pete
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on delco its 511842 but cant link any size to the part number Pete
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https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-herald/ should be a support hanger off the diff front support plate theres a hole in it for the bolt and one at the gearbox Canley shows them
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Vitesse/Herald remote brake servo install position
Pete Lewis replied to Nick Jones's topic in Running Gear
Whilst theres not much space to spare but fitting a larger pedal pad can make an amazing change in the feel of the load applied -
Or use a good quality seam sealer
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Vitesse/Herald remote brake servo install position
Pete Lewis replied to Nick Jones's topic in Running Gear
my guess its just far to big to go behind any dash. ones ive seen mounted transverse Im sure used the kit bracket they are not the best servo around I had two the first would hang the brakes on no mater how you stripped and aligned and freed air valves it just held them like a modern on hill start, you want to pull up, it decided you were going to stop a few seconds of aggro, the replacement was wildy more lively, the old one sits in the shed awaiting whatever and search prices these vary its not dedicated to triumph look at all the classic suppliers for the exact same fits all or nothing kit you can save yourself a rip off. Pete -
Vitesse/Herald remote brake servo install position
Pete Lewis replied to Nick Jones's topic in Running Gear
this was our attempt, the sidefacing makes the Mcyl zone a bit cluttered but is simple enough heres pic of shortend tray and fitting -
Vitesse/Herald remote brake servo install position
Pete Lewis replied to Nick Jones's topic in Running Gear
The trouble with these fits all no clues kits is your left asking or devising the more normal position is between heater and clutch master, the vac drum inboard the cylinder points over the clutch so it sits sideways not forwards. Without knowing this I fitted mine by shortening the battery tray move it towards the n/s and add the support brkt between the heater and the moved battery tray (can add a pic when back on laptop) pete -
Fitted mgf into my vitesse and made a simple latch that allowed the back to tilt pic will have to follow later pete
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simple test , if you press the pedal with it in a gear when stationary and theres a noise its throwout or thrusts as the gearbox and clutch disc will not be rotating if you sit with it idling and you press firmly to engage a gear without declutching the syncro should baulk the change but the drag applied will quieten any backlash clatter ..... any gearbox will go quieter if you try this its normal , its the racket set up by all the gears having backlash , some triumph boxes had the 3 springs on the front lay thrust washer to absorb some of this clatter. Pete
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Plug gaps wont have a great effect on any splutter and wheeze thats other things more likely mixture or carb has wrong parts the 1600 does not have damper springs , just heavier diaphragm weights, if someone has fitted damper springs it will be too rich make sure things like the rotor arm conract spring blade is actually touching the brush in the cap Use only engine oil in the dashpots Not a lover of bigger gaps it takes longer for the spark to jump the extra so theres a payoff Make sure the coil is wired correct polarity , and pet hate of mine never use plugs with an R in the suffix pete
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are you on solex down drafts or strombergs ??? Pete
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And with a alloy cover on my 2000 I dont have one either Hmmmm ,, I may just get one now we have talked about it pete
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The gauze reduces the risk any flame crossing the barrier same principle as the Davy lamp used by many makers in the 70s dont think triumph ever used a seperate one , as barrier was inside the tin covers, as were opel /Vx cavaliers, used to block up Hunter Avenger, Rover Sd1 etc had them in the tubes Pete
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theres some on ebay , its not overly important , but a gauze in the line is prefered to a flame flash back eg http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANG.....WE8l171TITEslc4rTq4w some have a pot scoured plastic gauge mesh inside , wire ones break up with vibration and end up inside the induction dont loose sleep over it but its something to play with while its raining. Pete
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metal channel pressed on the bottom of the glass the winder mechanism levers have two slides /rollers that slide in the channel to lift the glass think they will be leather washers , which need a grease from time time . if you can get your hands inside with the sheet and the tape , without being a contortionist youre doing well
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metal channel pressed on the bottom of the glass the winder mechanism levers have two slides /rollers that slide in the channel to lift the glass think they will be leather washers , which need a grease from time time . if you can get your hands inside with the sheet and the tape , without being a contortionist youre doing well
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i would just gaffer tape a plastic sheet to the bottom of the glass runner channel , clean any grease off and grease the roller channel after fitting. in production it was trapped in the channel and pressed on the bottom of the glass , you can do what you lke with the loose end , it normally just hangs around , dangles in the door space . butyl strip is useful for all sorts of removal sticky stuff, it can be a messy when hot , sticks to fingers and best shirt quite easy. its very tacky and stays that way. Pete
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i would just gaffer tape a plastic sheet to the bottom of the glass runner channel , clean any grease off and grease the roller channel after fitting. in production it was trapped in the channel and pressed on the bottom of the glass , you can do what you lke with the loose end , it normally just hangs around , dangles in the door space . butyl strip is useful for all sorts of removal sticky stuff, it can be a messy when hot , sticks to fingers and best shirt quite easy. its very tacky and stays that way. Pete
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the inner curtain is attached to the bottom glass runner , as the door leans in at the top it deflects water away from the door inner carcass, it goes up and down with the glass car builder solutions show the factory type butyl strip to attach poly door sheets etc always useful http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/butyl-sealer-strip-7-metre
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the inner curtain is attached to the bottom glass runner , as the door leans in at the top it deflects water away from the door inner carcass, it goes up and down with the glass car builder solutions show the factory type butyl strip to attach poly door sheets etc always useful http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/butyl-sealer-strip-7-metre
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The end float spec is 0.002 to 0.008" thats hand nipmthe nut and back of one flat mabe two there are two holes in the stub to give fine adjustment there must be some float or you will quickly sieze the outer bearing to the stub axle and thats an expensive mistake the split pin is 3mm 1/8" diameter Recheck the float after a few miles after refitting brgs and felts
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got some wear on my 2000 crank, on inspection the rear thrust was fitted wrong way round ,, still pondering over a solution but the crank face is in a bad way , Pete
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a word on tub spread this is when the bottom of the doors tend to be proud of the B post and the shut at the B post waist is tight and crushing the seal occurs when the top of the B post waist spread outwards over the years , many have this , it does happen on saloons and CVs Pete