Pete Lewis
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Everything posted by Pete Lewis
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this is a common fault if the coil is wired in reverse polarity IE it should have with a neg battery earth the white to the +ve and the dizzy lead to the -ve runs for a while , dies, you get out kick a few bits and miricales shes starts. only to die again soon. do double check the coil ign feeds are right way round then change the coil if all else fails more strong tea required and there is no R in the spark plug letters Pete
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Vitesse/Herald remote brake servo install position
Pete Lewis replied to Nick Jones's topic in Running Gear
These are a universal kit, sort of fits all , they are not model specific its an aftermarket add on. all the ones ive fitted have the valve in the elbow. pete -
electronic set ups dont have a condenser, there was an artile way back in mag , they cut a cond open to finf it should have about 3mtr of foil it only had 300mm thers some clues on dizzy doctor site about crap condensers old school a fail one would give you an idle but throttle it up an lots of bangs and pops as it stray sparks the plugs and fires hopelessly on load. th later dodgy ones seem to give very misguided running . with erratic to ok for no reason had a good few in my area pete
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advance vacuum is generated from under the throttle plate , nothing to do with the manifold vacuum that powers the servo or the vac gauge what readings do youmsee on the vacuum gauge at idle should be around 18 to 21 in,hg you cant tune a downdraft you can only adust the idle speed and the idle mixture, if the idle is set too high the idle mixture screw will not have much effect, and needs the idle slowing down to make the ixle circuit start to work One most likely problem is the slow running jet , halfway down the back of the carb is blocked if this is the case it will rev but hates to idle they are not easy to clean as any poking around will pop any debris inside the jet body , only to repeat its antics later if unsure about arcing ,,,, try looking when its dark there should not be any
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What i was tyring to establish is there are vastly differing specifications of CD150 that just a family of carb designs , was this carb suppose to be set up for a 1147 herald ??? The pulse or surging when you try to drive off can be so many things from wrong needles to fuel starvations, and much more We need to know just what you have fitted or guesswork wont solve anything Is there a brass tag with a number on one of the top camber screws?
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Apart from is there any idea the stromberg is the right spec to use on the 1200 does it have the correct needle spring and damper ring weight for this engine ?? pulsing can be its base setting is seriously too weak, and one favoirite is the rubber slivers off the fuel hoses which float and block the back of the float needle input Pete
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B &B supply a small tube of red mechanical spline grease with their kits im not a lover of copaslip its an anti seize compound not a lubricant pete
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Even if the fixing lugs and push rod have any small differences its got to be fittable LR parts always seem to have a low mark up and hence less £££ many LR parts are compatible using commonly available supplier parts bins. pete
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Thats what i woud have expected my Mk2 back plate has 2 dowels there is no dowel provision in the backplate for any clutch hsg dowels, there are dowel holes in the hsg but absolutely diddy squat in the back plate to fit anything ,, only bolt holes even took the back plate off thinking i can see two dowels, has some muppet had pressed them right through , but had i been a bit more observant they are just back plate /block location dowels , and dont align anywhere near the drilling in the c hsg. which are just blind against the plate struck me as odd , the 3 - 3/8"bolts seem some sort of compromised design the back plate looks aged original , its not a repro part . Pete Pete
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well the box is back in, surprised there are no dowel locations for the clutch hsg, there are 3x 3/8" bolts (over and above the normal 5/16"ones ) and these 3 are not exactly a 'fit' size not my idea of keeping it all concentric just new prop and exhaust to button up and shes done pete
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Just had the J type OD off my gearbox and it pop on /off easy there is a plug or nipple to pressurise the clutch pump but ive not needed to Its located next to the filter cover the j type has a self aligning pump 'big end' so positioning the cam low is not needed if alignment on refit is blocked , just pry the two piston bars with a couple of screwdrivers and this opens the clutch just remove them when it drops on. pete
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With new spring and plug the load is still only 15lbs to pull 1/2nd selector its the same spring and reading on 3rd4th I am begining to think the 27lbs in the manual Are for the early boxes which had a ramped detent plunger not just the simple ball the only way to raise the load is to redesign the selector detent groove to be sharper deeper not going to get carried away with that idea but with 1st jumping out and a supposedly low detent load I wont solve the problem without some definite improvement its not worn sleeve or dog tooth wear or any endfloat on the gears or sleeve, they are perfect. ive fitted the german baulk rings which only work on synchronising they have no effect on jump outs
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just been checking the pull loads on the sleeves and selector shafts the sleeves are withing spec the selectors are well low at 14lbs spec is 27 for1st /2nd , so doing things the hard way fight the core plug out of the remote , spring is ok , so it needs a shim or what, the core plugs are 3/8" and ddo not appear sold by any triumph outlet so ebay to the rescuse , ordered 3 for pennies but the simpler idea is just press the plug in futher till you achive the loading on the pull test, easy to block the plug to stop it returning , this was a cost reduction the earlier boxes have a screwed plug to make adjustment easy but its all going back together , with no wear tear nasties apart from new baulk rings and 3 hub springs Pete
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Examined the shaft the hole under magnification is past is best so new shaft is ordered box is stripped just needs ball springs to improve the detent and new baulk rings And i dont need to remove the 3rd gear circlip wait the postman and slot it back in new clutch as fingers well worn, and I got a transmision adaptor for the trolley jack it will be a good test to try that out getting a bit old for lift with the knees. pete
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Hi, the crosshaft hole goes right through the shaft there is a relief counter drilling in the back of the fork to accept any protrusion so yes .no All good stuff thanks might have a play today Im not going out in the snow its just drop the cluster , pop the stem wheel out and get the main bearing off the shaft the silliest Is the circlip on 3rd guess that will be chopped its a bit well hidden for any normal removal but easier than some of the 18spd stuff ive been involved with developement pete
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If it needs to be lap in , Im down to micrometer blue and some grinding paste still to strip the box so parts order will be nearer the new year, well santa has got in the way of normal speed But its looking simple needs of decent baulk rings and a few hub ball springs pete
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http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchShaft/ClutchShaft.htm The buckeye triumphs site gives a whole plethera of trials and tribulations into this tapered dowel failures the shaft hole is definitley tapered, I will get a new hd dowel from RB and check its fit before I jump to a new shaft but its not overly £££s So replace to be sure is not the end of the world, I dont want to take the box off again peter
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Well the lever had the punch hole already drilled took a lot of aligning to get to the backend of the dowel but , its out the shaft is not that clever at the break point but will access with new uprated dowel and lap in with some grinding paste , see what sort of fit I can get , it may be a new shaft is on the cards to make a reliable fix pete
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Im not normally stuck more into giving solutions, senior moments prevail will try both ideas if Hic hic chritmas can wait pete
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just doing a refurb of my mk2 gearbox and following this thread checking the taper dowel in the withdrawl has failed , unscrewed the base but the broken taper is seriuosly stuck in the shaft and wont allow me to withdraw the shaft . so angle grind the shaft into two to extricate the blasted thing seems the only option, then on bench theres access to see down the fork tapping to see whats left inside or not any good ideas welcome Pete
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if the clutch disc was fitted the right way round ( the wrong way is likely to foul the flywheel bolts and give permanent drive) then to get the fingers or on a coil cover the release arms to contact the disc springs as shown, there is too much slave travel, so a thought is have you got the right sized master and slave diameters fitted ?? Pete
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wont be the first time ive found the rebuild left the pump cam keyway out , so no pump action Pete
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ive found many operational problems are due to the solenoid internal shuttle is stuck unscrew the solenoid with a , 1" af thin spanner dont turn it by the body, remove and lookin the end there is a small 10mm circlip, pop this out and shake out the shuttle /spool valve inside this must be a easy slide/ loose rattles when shaken . if its stiff it wont work . a clean and maybe new 0 rings on the shuttle and the body . if you have a battery( these dont need mega amps ) you can fire the solenoid and see if the inside bit actually moves worth a quick look. Pete
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early motors with the dome cover and sweeping switch can adjust the park by rotating the cover later motors with a fixed trip switch i believe are fixed. best to leave the arms off if youve been meddling or you may wipe the bonnet Pete
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leave it all alone Pete