Pete Lewis

Sorry techy and  2000  all misplaced on this daft tablet and the layout here now does make some confusion.  Pete

if youre not impressed  with used Canley list new at a good price  210578  @ around £24  thats each    and if you need the mk2 handbrake spreader bars  the stag ones are exactly the same but have a + 1/2" on the cable lever makes a nice handbrake and cheaper than any 2000 ones about  Pete

on advantage is it takes on engine temperature and doesn't  get cooled so much by the fan airflow so in colder weather you wont make so much mayonnaise or hair cream in the cover  as you can with a tin one  pete

i had a recurring flooding despite all attempts with new needle valves and even tried some grose valves that  were  more hopeless  on examination of the platform the needle sits against with a magnifier you could detect a ridge had worn on the face,  far from obvious to the normal eye  this is enough to jam the needle  new floats and problem has remained fully cured  tried to fettle the face but the plastic tends to shread it gets worse the more you try. pete

the top two studs have to be sealed and copper washers or you pump a leak. if fact  seal everyting.  i like loctite 574 for all face joints  brilliant stuff pete

i see Nicks having multiple post due to the wait where's it gone time out delay we seem to be getting grose jets used to be good but having trie a few in SU came to the conclusion they are not what they use to be, none works well. also if you have a stromberg with a twin float arm levers you can fit the float upside down good place for pictorials and excellent write ups is  http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm never mind its TR based or even 175  the basics are all the same    Pete

once youve broken the grip of the gaskets it should be a simple pull it off. J type refit better tan Dtype but to realign the inards use two decent screwdrivers to lever the piton plates open this frees the cone and all just drops back on . do keep the drivers and fingers out the way when it drops  Jtype have a chamfer on the lead to the pump roller but position the cam at its lowest helps Pete

they must be turned on a mandrill  some were gripped in a lathe chuck and this made the ring lobe shaped due to compression of the jaws no idea how they are made in the world of  the often crap aftermarket  Pete 

Rimmer bros , I bought some supposed uprated or better quality rings for the 2000 they dont show cost alternatives for the 3 rail box but the price is similar to the big  saloon german rings  have to say they are working well. All our  truck baulk rings were german made castings ,   its quite special stuff.  If thats any clue Pete

to change the seals you need to remove the bearing stories of 40 ton presses come to mind they can be a less than easy bearing to remove from the shaft extra shreaded wheat required  Pete

Give it a good whack  use a heavier hammer or decent lever to pop it out ,  There no fixings apart from the 4 , its likely just aged grot ,   its not a press fit    Pete              

just done this on a cv ex rotaflex  a few assemble and strip with a selection of ebay spacers  and soon found the effect of a 0.003" shim would take you from pre load to some drum rock  took about 6 attempts , always knock the hub back after  a trial fit to induce some end float  or it just stays where last pressed.  do torque the hut each time , a nip will not give you a result once happy , greased up and fitted oil seal  torque nut  we had a very small rock on the  drum, i was pre load that killed the original  fitting ,  do make sure any feeling of float is not from the CV spherical and spider any movement here can be misconstrued as end float if you grip the shaft in a vice and look for float  just grip the  boot diameter or whatever  the advantage of CV is you need a spring  lifter but youre not having to fight the tension of the doughnut, so refitting is relatively easier .  took a lot of trial and  fiddle but not a bad job   a thin  ended 3 legged puller is useful as you have the inner race left on when you strip the hub. chop the oil seal off aids a gap  you may lever it of , or use a sandwich type of puller to get under the race inner ring. Pete

if the thrust face in the block has just worn away the lugs on the bearing caps that hold the thrust in place i have in the distant past welded and fettled replacement lugs on the bearing cap, needs a bit of care but reclaims a scrap block if the block  thrust face is  is damaged then ignore this idea  ive come across many deceitful traders form wheel cylinders atatched with a tyrap to  charging for 29 ltrs of engine oil in a head gasket change at £1000 afraid the trade historically  is very variable from very good to awful ... pretty disappointing really  Pete  

dave you can simply hammer the flange to get an even gap all round the aperture  but if its crushing the seal/tight at the B post waist and the door sticks out at the bottom then youre sure  to have some tub spread  its pretty common Pete

dave you can simply hammer the flange to get an even gap all round the aperture  but if its crushing the seal/tight at the B post waist and the door sticks out at the bottom then youre sure  to have some tub spread  its pretty common Pete

www.odspares.com/   https://www.overdrive-repairs.co.uk/   they are not hard to strip and examine   buckeye triumphs gives good details , not specific D type but exellant detail on many parts  http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm   and https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/how_it_works_laycock_overdrive   and  MPap    both very  good just the cost of shipping

Have you removed the spool valve under the cap plug on the top face this has a very small hole down its centre, if blocked the pressure is not released when you disengage the solenoid   on removing the screwed plug cap  catch  the spring , ball and small plunger, the valve tube sits below all this , just pull it out    there two reputable manufactures in the uk  that doesnt help if your in Italy   Pete            

Good result  keep taking the tablets Getting under doesnt get any easier , I know that feeling Pete            

http://www.distributordoctor.com/distributor_condensers.htm this tells the story , and he does delco now Pete

948 is 63mm bore   1147 is 69.3mm   so not really a fit it would give a 3.1mm recess around the fire ring zone . looking at the poor pics on line theres some changes arounds the pushrod gallery GEG344 seems pretty unavailable around most usual suppliers   I wonder what other 948'ers do ? Pete

strombergs on the 1600 had heavy damper weight ring and no springs  so mix and match here , check the ring that holds the diaphragm in place on the piston , this is the bit with  a variety of weights by differing thicknesses   think burlen  spell out the specs in their listings  Pete  

you have to remove the compensator  U  to pass the cable through it, the threaded end is too thick, so you have to drop the clevis on the  floor mounted lever and fiddle the cable into the horseshoe then re fit the thing . good time to check the angle of the lever  is correct ,   long thin fingers or drop the prop is inevitable ....or some strong tea    Pete

with no clues or others to browse when i got mine a good few years ago  we shortend the battery tray, moved it to the n/s dropped the servo in the gap more normal is to fit between heater and clutch master pointing to the O/s    Pete

well lets try a reply on this new version forum  after a good dose of the winter bug the box is in with the supposed high  german made quality baulk rings  the selector pull load would never climb above the 15 lb and is never going to achive the wsm figures so I will live with that result, new sleeve springs and detent springs , but the welch/core plugs you need to dig out are available on ebay but not from any triumph suppliers, 10mm  and a light spread witha ball bearing to geta good tight fit ( only needd till the top cover goes on ) the result is shes very quiet, no fork /gear lever sizzle and synchro is as snappy as you like , but  with correct end floats and new springs no bent forks  etc  she will still jump out of 1st on deceleration in 1st at 15 mph I am going to live with that ...enough enough i did buy a transmission plate to fit on the trolley jack but did not have the height to get the box on  anyne wants it for some beers +  made with a tilt adjustment and very solid bit of kit  like this cant load the link or picture  sorry   Pete    

more tea then ,,,,,are you sure the jets and choke tube in the carb are correct to the manual ??? is the coil wire ok or not ? make sure the brush in the cap is in contact with the rotor avoid like the plague any rotor witha rivet in the sweep plate Pete