Pete Lewis

the door seals should be a single flip lip not a giant  tube/balloon sold by many,  sounds like the tub needs all its fixings slackening and move the baulkhead and rear tubs apart  if the doors proud at the bottom and shuts hard on the B post (wing top) then suggest you have tub spread, take the seal off the apperture and see if the flange to door gap is same all round and does the door shut ok with the seal off ??? Pete

the door seals should be a single flip lip not a giant  tube/balloon sold by many,  sounds like the tub needs all its fixings slackening and move the baulkhead and rear tubs apart  if the doors proud at the bottom and shuts hard on the B post (wing top) then suggest you have tub spread, take the seal off the apperture and see if the flange to door gap is same all round and does the door shut ok with the seal off ??? Pete

if you cant add a new indent drill a small hole and add a roll pin or split pin to stop rotation and reposition the wear to a unmarked section  Pete

some good clues and pics of up grade pin ideas on Buckeye https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/clutch clutch loads if the disc is thin the pedal loads go up  as the clamp loads reduce  disc thickness clamped ( nipped in a vice) is 0.290" to 0,270"(min) Pete

these kits are universal and not model related  its a one kit can or might fits all its a box of pipes hoses and brackets  where and how you fit it is variable lots of differing ideas out there . we shortened the battery tray on the Vit6 and  moved it to the n/s  popped the servo in the gap facing fwds. others are mounted across the top of the clutch Mcyl.   all down to preference  pete

its easy  if the needle climbs /moves in a slow damped operation its a thermo bi metal gauge and needs a stabilser to maintain  a steady votage of the gauge will change as driving voltages change  these use temp sender GTR108  if the needles swing to a reading as soon as switched on and tend to wag around on bumpy roads its a moving iron gauge with two coils inside  and not voltage sensitive  these must use sender 121997 you cant inter mix the two unless you like  funny results ,  wont be the first time ive come across engine changes for running hot when it just the wrong sender  they used to be coloured but generic makes all seem black these days  caerbont instruments still make and supply smiths /jaeger intsruments pete                 

you can re route the 1600 breather to run over the spin on and the groove the seal ring sits in is stepped its easy to think its fitted in ok and the filter body chops the new seal .. , get down eye level and look in the groove/recess  not unusual for two rings to be inside  

i would also check the brake shoes , make sure of no detached or loose lining and the trailing shoes are on the right way up  ( ie  rear shoe has handbrake slot at bottom ) free play on prop can be just float on the planet gears , and broken sun or planets can  loose /lock drive  pete

think i would have a look for  a perforated carb diaphragm Pete

tssc club shop members price £65 if that helps stubborn ones best left under tension overnight , its off in the morning ......or not  do check the hub flanges are not distorted , when its off get a local machine shop to shim the face   to reclain it. Pete      

with the brg. cap removed you can use a thin tool to press/rotate the upper shell around the crank once its started to move roll it fully round till it drops out   if they are a dull grey they are fine , you often get light debris score lines in shells   the shell should show a dull grey all round , no wild worn contact marks  certainly no copper or base metal, google 'pictures of  ' if uncertain  sump screws can find stripped threads in the front alloy bridge, if too long have been fitted  and  been  over tightened  you can tap over size or get a aftermarket steel bridge ( a belt and braces solution) Pete

from the books 3334 come from a 71-73 dolly 1850 and CDSE    no V  if that helps  has temperature compensators , that benefit from resetting (easy)  one choke on the front one ,  would need new needles to suit the 2ltr.  Pete      

being a single row ball race there will be some waggle/float , but once supported by the flywheel spigot or the tail housing it all holds steady .  no float or waggle is possible when all assembled.

why get woe full about drain back  its only lasted 50 years without a problem just dont rev the nuts off as it fires just let idle and there you go spin on's are much less hassle to change than the canister originals as  if you get the canister  new seal in without chopping it , youre  lucky. Pete  

you can to reduce unwanted push rod free play  slot the  bracket to baulkhead   fixings and move the assy to reduce free travel,, there must always be a small play on the pushrod  it also can raise the pedal  and start point , you must use good washers over the slots 

Do keep a record of what screws go where the sump and others into the alloy block are shorter, if long get used then they bottom out and you strip the alloy sealing block that bridges the front main brg. There is a mixture of long shorter and  cheese head set screws  each has a place If the alloy block is stripped you may resolve with a retap to M8 or even M10  , being more like unc ,   It suits alloy better than unf.    

Do keep a record of what screws go where the sump and others into the alloy block are shorter, if long get used then they bottom out and you strip the alloy sealing block that bridges the front main brg. There is a mixture of long shorter and  cheese head set screws  each has a place If the alloy block is stripped you may resolve with a retap to M8 or even M10  , being more like unc ,   It suits alloy better than unf.    

apart from the inboard sphericals which  ive always found are always shimmed there is athe pre load on the idler gear this may need a shim adding if its been set too tight easy test unscrew the big nut  under the greaser a fraction see if it easier . Pete

and if the float has two needle arms you can fit the float upside down and that causes chaos to the fueling heights   Pete

the problem here is the use of too long bolts , they bottom out and tightening just strips the threads, m10 or 3/8 unc  will work on sump or timing cover  into the alloy block but do check the bolt lengths or you will just repeat the stripping  invest in a steel one if needs must , they are belt and braces Pete

or Canley have this summary https://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/different-differentials   Pete

my mkIV parts list is clear wide to the card  small end to the door as was the case with this design on so many marques in the heyday  it not triumph this was used by so many other makes . the spring applies  pressure to the  door card , keeping escutcheon in place to retain the pin  so a simple push on the card lets the pin fall in the grass !!!! and if you dont have a spring them a 1" thick foam doughnut will work just as well pete

my mkIV parts list is clear wide to the card  small end to the door as was the case with this design on so many marques in the heyday  it not triumph this was used by so many other makes . the spring applies  pressure to the  door card , keeping escutcheon in place to retain the pin  so a simple push on the card lets the pin fall in the grass !!!! and if you dont have a spring them a 1" thick foam doughnut will work just as well pete

ive seen old fuel go gooey, and it does loose its umph!  ive not heard of acid attack and being old its unlikely to be ethanol problems  my car was laid up for 20 yrs and its had not  a hint of any fuel issues  over the past 3 years , not even the hoses , so  ....pass on that one  do we have a metallurgical /  fuel  chemist out there ??? and hoses best replaced with some Gates R9 ethanol proof,  dont go for wildly specified fleabay  copies  reports of many supposed high spec hoses failing in months  eg   http://www.early911sregistry.org/forums/archive/index.php/t-125074.html Pete

Many places sell a long life neoprene gasket which sits nicely on the flat face for 4 and 6cly covers.  It wont fit tin covers  Eg tssc shop and  rimmers   I was instrumental in the idea to develop, a seal a  long way back  Pete