Pete Lewis
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Everything posted by Pete Lewis
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Then there is all the other car stoppers, fuel pump , full of debris, supply line air leaks, wrong pump and cam levers fuel jellied in the jet supply tubes ht leads in wrong firing order, its 1342 anticlockwise on the dizzy cap tight valve clearances distributor duff rotor arms , worn bushes , some terrible replacement condensers and caps and rotors Check coils for green mouldy HT teminals
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if it has a all plastic float have a careful look at the platform the float needle contacts these do wear a small groove /indentation and this causes the needle to jam, ( but normally makes a flood rather than a lack off fuel) if things have been disturbed then the classic rubber sliver syndrome is a frequent culprit, when refitting the fuel hoses the metal tube cuts a small slice off the inside on the hose this floats about and ends up stuck in the back of the float needle , as said remove needle and check, also get a squirt from the pump pipe into a jar to expel any floaters . Pete
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if she revs but wont idle take the slow run jet out and clean it Pete
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stromberg floats and valves are fairly bullet proof, the old nutshell is when fitting all the many hose joints you cut a sliver of rubber off the inside of the hose and this floats about in the supply and then jams in the back of the float needle on Stroms this gives more a blockage than open valves on SU it can get stuck in the needle port on SU its important the top of the all plastic float has no small wear marks on its contact face as these jam the valve Stroms are more substantial and have metal arms its not a problem with these check the float height is 18mm from the carb face to the highest part of the float , on some strom floats you can have two valve arms and its easy to fit the float upside down. make certainly sure no gaskets or filter is obstructing any of the small ports on the filter mounting face Pete
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From days in the apprenice shool if at first you dont succeed , try a bigger hammer !!l pete
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This is the old compromise or utopia problem engines with this can run ok for years, if you fit one odd piston it must be exactly the same weight as the orig or the other 5 or serious balance problems will appear. Depends how many miles you intend to use her or diving style, if you only do 5000 pa and dont use it for racing then with normal, spirited driving I would rebuild sleep easy , keep the finding in the back of the mind Pete
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Yes timing on points needs a diferent dizzy postion to electronics, it all depend where the triger is in comparison to the old points cam lobes, most require a significant change to achieve the specified timing just repaired a noisy timing chain , nothing wrong with the chain but someone had centre popped the back of the gear wheel this held the faces apart and the resultant racket sounded like a chain saw I expected to find the tensioner had escaped but all was sound except the tell tale oil smear running from the pop mark protrusion on the back of the gear, quick fettle flat and quiet as a mouse, and the bolts were tight. Pete
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if you have the removed unit swap the output shafts , just the socket cap bolts 4 each side and ..Pulls out but dont upset the Rimmers returns policy .... daves different diffs at canley will ID what they have sent you but sounds like a 6 cyl unit http://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/different-differentials Pete
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On my Vit6 the ign switch had a spiked gripping washer to grab the back of the panel switch had a flat on to locate in the washer which had a D hole not looked to see of its listed as OE. pete
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all 2 ltr vitesse were only 3.89 no other option was offered. think Rimmers have a data problem or typo. only GT6 had higher ratio's of 3.27 or std 3.89 if OD was fitted the 3.63 is a good compromise you dont want to over gear it or things like hill starts etc need excessive clutch slip times to get her moving Pete
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Theres some ideas in the 2000 section pete
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well tehy are in , the bug is the runners are only a few mm out from the Triumph floor , we made up some box spacers with around 10mm off set holes but to fit added studs in the floor , and a wider box section would have made spanner access to the nuts mre productive whilst the seat runners are flat had to pack the drivers on one side as it had a lean, heck knows why , its clear of the tunnel and the height lever trim is clear of the cill pics to follow,, been along day of head scratch and toil but they support so much better than the armchairs ,,well suits me . there will have to be a Mk2 version of the mounts and use full length but a rectangular box would make offset holes and room to spanner a better job both sides of the car measured differing widths btween mounting weld nuts , the old frame is quite tolerant , of misalignment the alpha is positive size so copy of the driver pedestals didnt fit the passenger floor so undo fettle cut drill repeat syndrome will try posting some pics later this week , day out to relax tomorrow. Pete
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if you are going to strip the box you need the mainshaft circlips and make be one for the stem gear the bears shown dont have the circlips in the grooves so have to hope your old ones are flat. has balls and springs for the hubs note 3/4 are different lengths to 1/2 get them mixed and you get either a loose or too stiff change if you have a 4 sybcro box its best to assemble this vertical , have a dumm hard wood to support the mainshaft spigot then lower the case and mainshaft down the shaft tapping the bearing in as you go this might sound daft but it stops the collet thrusts on 1/2 from bouncing out when you assemble . make a short dummy layshaft to just fit the length of the cluster , use this to keep the nedles in place make a wire or string lop to use to lift the cluster up meshed ready to push the new spindle through the needles and past the thrust washers , some vitesse had a 3 springs in the front face(held in by the c hsg) these reduce idle noise backlash chatter to pre load the thrust washer , but not overly important Pete
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This could be the new followers on old cam ,, its probably mincing the follower base if you have a magnetic plug in the sump it will collect and show the debris pete
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i Had in my rouges gallery a shaft that had the spigot cut off, bored and had a ground shaft inserted, all quite well done but they did not fix the slug in the shaft so it moved about wrecked the stem bore and the needles , it also had a single rail 1/2 nd hub as a ratting good fit on the mainshaft and they have extra reverse teeth which must have been interesting, this was bought as a slave for spares , someone spent a lot of ££ going know where . I prefer the bush design much more tollerant Pete
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well the hard part of refitting the back rest went well, made the new straps up , the seat squab is not good, the diaphragm is fine but the homemade squab is no good so Alfa seats are being collected on tuesday good thing is i have miles of pirelli webbing and a simple jig to drill the staple holes , looking at the price on Rb well worth doing if you like a challenge let me know if you need a few feet. Pete
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have a look at Encoms ost about the 18mm spigot say it all. can be done to suit H V S GT6 if the mainshaft spigot is shot you need to find a TKC 923 shaft lets hope they are from a previous , or layshaft ...unlikely though. if its catastrophic then the inside of the stem gear could be in trouble as well mike papworth sells or can fit a revised mainshaft and stem gear with the 18mm dia. later spigot well worth it as this is the weakest part of these old boxes the 1/2" one just wears out . easy to refit an d type overdrive , dont faf about trying to align the splines in the hubs , just use two screwdrivers and when nearly located lever the piston bars to open the clutch and it flies on ., keep fingers and levers out the way when it drops Pete
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I take pills to keep me hoses clear Wonder if they work on old brakes !!!!! pete
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I have just stripped the seats on my Mk2 to make new back straps and cut a base foam with electric caving knife , gee these seats are the worst complicated construction I have ever come across. will it all go back ????? should know by the weekend ...if not i may have to follow the clues on here about alfa replacements or others but need light grey code 78 at least no hog rings to fight but everything is glued to everything, and the backrest vertical bungy cords will be a challenge to fish with a string, live in hope Pete
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if thehoses are as old as the car then its a good time to replace them anyway, braided give a better feel, but std rubber mix works fine as it has for years this is a where does one stop, many ideas , deep pocket syndrome but its not wise to skimp on brakes think youre in for a full strip look see project when the suns out if you need a bearing kit the TSSC shop sell the kit with the correct sized felt seals , Pete
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you need 0.002 to 0.08" end float on the brgs thats a very light hand nip and back off one flat of the castle nut, no grease in the hub or cap only in the races themselves . there is only a felt grease seal ring that fits inside a cup in the hub and runs against the stub axle you may have pressure build up,the master cyl is not recuperating properl and this keeps the brakes partialy applied,, if the wheels are stiff just crack a bleed nipple if that relases then M cyl is in trouble, or there is no free play on the M cyl pushrod. for rears dont let axles hang down ,, disconnect HB cable lock adjusters fully, reconnect the cable adjusted to suit, back of adjuster . Pete
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need to mentino the triumph spec has a static ride height determined by 150lbs on each seat ( or get rent a crowd in for tea) if you set the toe unladen its going to be hopeless the road especially the rear , as clive say two bricks to raise a straight edge above the tyre bulge and tape measure across the car between the straight edges . lsers are not much se if the spec is not respected Pete
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Bsf is 22 tpi unf is 24 probably fit easy being only half a nut and the thread angle allowed a fit as for tighening its only half a nut so limits the torque the same these just need a hand nip with a std spanner, they donrt need wraunching to lock the screw pete
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And make sure its not exhaust conact in the rear x member do the easy first pete
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As wild idea, I tried to shorten the bumper to improve the fit when brackets had disintegrated , to close the protuding corner up against he valence Looks like it should work.......it doesnt stick with the spaced or a bracket