Pete Lewis
-
Posts
1,687 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by Pete Lewis
-
Most use a landrover equivalent slight bore diameter change but new and cheap a simple search wil throw them up the angle of the reservior is not overly important just done brim it, pete
-
Hi read thr other posts , pleanty of good advice temp compensators open a small plunger to let air bypass the throttle plates and speed idle and weaken mixture when very HOT, having them fully closed at normall temp is the only way to set the idle mixture, if they are open you cannot set it right. if fitted they must be closed at normal temp. if the temp comps have been removed ( the device with a plastic cover and bi metal operated plunger the ports where it fitted MUST be blocked off or you have a air flow to the back of the throttle and fast idle. the other 3 screw device was pretty much only fitted to usa spec emmission cars , not used much in the UK if removed blank off the ports with a fuel proof gasket lifting the pistons with cleaner off is a waste of time as the cleaner really affects the mixture , best have filters on and use lifting pins if fitted, only raise the pin to just touch the piston and then lift it 2mm max , do centralise the jets first have a look at buckeye triumphs web site brilliant clues and pictures , not the same carb but the basics are the same http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsII/CarbsII.htm use engine oil not cats pee in the dampers, if the throttle plates have been removed are they replaced the right way round ?? that gives false idle speeds
-
if you have the float with two valve arms its easy to fit the float upsidedown http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsII/CarbsII.htm have a browse at this site , float height is 18mm from face. yes look for slivers of rubber from fitting the hoses to the tubes , they float around in the supply pipes and block the back of the new valve Pete
-
memory is a bit foggy but believe mini are the same , shame about the nuts as going 7/16 or 12mm make it bullet proof for ever Pete
-
or just leave ir under compression overnight, i may pop of when youre not looking always tap the studs out and run a flat file over the flange to make sure the puller has nor deformed the drum face , even with the dreanought puller it can still upset this face Pete
-
simplest drain is the boot lamp switch has been bent and wont turn off when lid is closed. worst is alternator diode has failed Pete
-
spark plugs with an R in the suffix are 'resistive' made for modern radio suppression and require a much higher HT than our car coils produce our cars are about 22kv and resistive need over 32kv , so fine in a modern car with modular coils but can give understandably poor running on the general tin can coil we all use if you have these then your very likley to get some weeny sparks at the pugs and some general misfire Pete
-
sounds like she's just too rich whilst Im not in spain we had a 7 blade plastic fan on the 1600 with unwrapped 6-3-1, manifold ans std rad , std airbox used 1/.5" sink waste to make better air flow in the to the airbox and she never suffered a missed beat use 97+ ron fuel advance as close to factory 10deg as possible never use plugs with an R in the suffix vapourisation seems more of a myth to hide more basic problems than blame the fuel from gassing Pete
-
you can improve the cooling and much quieter fit a palstic 7 bladed unit from a later era. to replace the metal fan. converted my 1600 to stombergs added a 6.3.1 manifold and suitable exhaust with a single bell silencer , drove it hard for miles an she would idle in traffic with a std rad for hours never missed a beat, just maintain a cold air supply to the filters Pete
-
thermostat or no thermostat, that is the question
Pete Lewis replied to supergreenmachine73's topic in Engine
most dont realise the thermostat does modulate the flow it opens and closes or partially opens and closes all the time, you need to control engine temperature as the engine relies on a steady temperature or you will have the need to continually adjust the mixture , a steady temp and fuel ratio to correspond is essential. the triumph specs are in general 88c cold climates,, 82c european, 78c hot climates there's no winter , summer for european wiith a stat fitted and the rad cap Off you will see when idling the flow across the top of the radiator , it will ebb and flow as the stat changes every few seconds .. its that quick if the rads working and the fans running the top tank will be at Stat temp the bottom outlet will be nearly cool Pete -
as the overdrive engagement has varying damping with types ,and conditions , a light feather on the clutch or a lift off the power is a good thing , it feels better for the neck jerk to the passengers and having been involved with testing Commer vans fitted with these units a dab or a dip was normal test proceedure for Rootes ,to smooth the change and yes extend the lining life . whack it in or whack it out its your preference and your ££s if Parker did that he would get the sack from lady Penelope Ha ! Pete
-
if you wreck the mills pin a spirol rol pin would work or even a decent split pin, whatever .... you need to seal the ends of the oilway we only faffed around when sold the wrong gear and stuck with a now what solution ...it lasted 12 years till i sold her Pte
-
depends on the vintage of the 1600 but you may find the alloy has breather which will foul the header tank, had to plug the tubed outlet and fit a filter or breather tube to the N/S you cant vacuum a 1600 as the crankcase has its own tubular open breather next to the fuel pump if you fit a spin on filter you need to re make this to get the spin on to fit pete
-
you can modify a mk2 shaft , to fit a mk1/1600 but need to shorten it and tap the oilway to take a bolt/washer to hold the last rocker , this replaces the cap and pin arrangement, as a mk2 shaft is longer , use the old pedestals, the rockers are common across the 6 pot range take photo or sketch of where the spacers, spings and which way round the rocker is handed. you can with a fine grind wheel easy to reface the worn stem contact damage quite successfully, by reginding a contour on the rocker we made a swingng arm wooden carrier to give a sweep action on a small drill sharpener table . Pete
-
on my 1600 it had a pheonix 6 3 1 2" exhaust, dumped the wheel barrow twin and used a TSSC Bell Semisports single silencer and it was a real song ...i miss it 631 can be very tight to fit between steering column and turrets. the 3-1 collector can need modifying to stop leaks a tubular manifold can be pingy compared to a cast unit., crisp and clear and not overly noisy , but enough to make you want to change down and let her go. pete
-
in general bearings whine, if its on drive but disapears on coast/overun then its likely to be the pinion thrust bearing in the diff. or this would loose pre load and incorrect pinion mounting distance so the mesh is upset. Pete
-
you must have some small free play in the Mcyl pushrod or the cylinder wont refill from the reservior you can slot the cyl mount brackets to and slide the bracket on its baulkhead 4 bolts this will raise the pedal, but dont close the free play down to nil please confirm bleed on slave is uppermost above the pipe this sounds like the throwout pin and its 'tolerance ring' may have dropped , have a look down the o/s of the clutch hsg you can just see the top of the pivot pin Pete
-
fitting vitesse front wheel bearing felt seal cup
Pete Lewis replied to daver clasper's topic in Running Gear
yes , keep some end play, a light nip on the nut and back 1 + flats is fine if its tight youre in for a quick and expensive siezure sounds like you have it right, some aftermarket felts and cups were very oversize and didnt fit anywhere Pete -
in the industry plastic was introduce to suppress transmission of engine noise to the baulkhead etc.and also ease routing yes some of the old red tubes did expand under pressure when hot , and that was solved by introducing cheaper low friction cables in the 70s that wer'nt Pete
-
fitting vitesse front wheel bearing felt seal cup
Pete Lewis replied to daver clasper's topic in Running Gear
thats about right just flush. the back of the cup sits against the bearing face re check the end float once the seals had a short run. Pete -
there were some rings made by being held in a lathe chuck which imposed some lobing rings must be machined on a mandrill to keep them concentric I bought a core box from a faily local supplier to get some 'useable spares' I kept in rouges gallery a mainshaft which had the tip cut off , bored to take a spigot , but it was left loose to wander about and had wrecked the stem gear spigot bearing , it also had a mix of single rail and3 rail hubs and gears .. no wonder it was traded in so getting second hand as a slave doesnt always gain you much except a gear case Pete
-
od mainshaft is tkc923 having rebuilt many of the tired units my last rebuild i took to mick papworth for a mainshaft with the 18mm spigot and a vitesse/gt6 stem gear machined to suit makes the weak link weedy spigot more bullet proof . adds considerable life to these now tired boxes , wear and fatigue is playing its part now, theres a limit to how many times you can use core to rebuild anything thats better than a compromise ..... tooth profiles changed during rhe life of these cars , you cant mix old with new and i dont have any gearbox numbers to show when ?? this occured Pete
-
you may find the starter ring gear has the chamfer lead on the wrong side as 2000 would have pre engaged , not inertia.starter so a fly wheel swap is a possible Pete
-
recently fitted inertia in the back and have removed it as the roll wont fit the o/s without a poor approach angle , and its punched the headliner, this was on the Z straps to off set from the close to edge fixing, end result you cant stop it pivoting, no matter how tight you secure it, use a std stepped collar spacer to bridge the shelf foam and fully tighten the bolt , I have now reverted to static rears and they fit much better , even found the reel pendlum could set up a rattle, which you dont get when floor mounted there have been posts on here about making a triangular flat gusset to move the belt mount inboard to get the reel axis correct but static is simple . if less convenient Pete
-
front and rear engine plate from a big saloon would different to vitesse mkII2000 had 84bhp mkII 2000TC had 91bhp so cams and breathing were quite diferent pete