Pete Lewis
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Everything posted by Pete Lewis
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remote brake servo(would it be worth getting one)
Pete Lewis replied to 2500 est's topic in Running Gear
have to say at £64 buy it now is a cracking price generally often well over £100 whilst it dosnt stop any better you will feel it does purley as the Oh sh1t is taken out of a rapid stop in modern traffic with far less effort yes it a preference but once you have one there's no return hauling it up with size 10 stood on the pedal. as Clive says make sure you have the correct M cylinder . Pete -
yes it does come off as a separate unit but you need to lift the rear end a long way, look for fan fouling rad etc.and hose stretch getting it off will be a far easier than putting it back which will either be a doddle or a nightmare , read in the manual about aligning the drive and one way hub splines inside the unit you only need to sneeze and it all moves , also the position of the oil pump cam or the follower wont ride over it, having and old mainshaft tapered to make a lead is most useful to make alignment easy , it can be a pain to refit out on the floor,, but in car may test your patience , pete
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links to most of the clues you will ever need, the Buckeye site has good photo and descriptions, http://www.tssc.org.uk/index.php?option=com_fireboard&Itemid=55&func=view&id=44787&catid=219 and for economical repairs give the carb exchange a call http://www.carbex.demon.co.uk/ pETE
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a few other pointers, the chamfer on the gear dog teeth and sliding sleeve and the baulk ring has to be a well defined flat chamfer its directly responsible for the baulking loads on ' rock over' when synchronising, worn and chimbled teeth will allow the synchro to let go halfway thro' a gear change and you get the clashing of teeth, its certainly not just the baulk ring. when making up a 4 synch box for the vit6 the slave box was a nightmare. I tried using a cased needle roller in the stem gear to resolve damage to the bore from a mainshaft that had the tip cut off, bored out and a new tip slugged in place which was loose in the end the cased needles lasted 3k and failed which again wrecked the new mainshaft tip. due to in adequate lube getting to the needles. having run out of core I succumbed to MP and we fitted a 18mm tip shaft and modified stem, the box internals werealready fine , its quiet and works as well as ever , bear in mind these boxes are getting harder to recon can be very expensive very quickly, and any core out there has run well beyond its design life, you could go the TR7 or ford type 9 route as they are more bullet proof. here's a ueful link to Type 9 http://www.tssc.org.uk/index.php?option=com_fireboard&Itemid=55&func=view&id=62545&catid=218
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there is always trouble with the short slotted brackets that are under the overiders, the workshop manual show slot at top the parts list shows slot at bottom , which from a design point of view is correct, the bonnet tubes should pivot on a bolt thro. the single hole, there is no spacer tube in here it needs to be nipped up to allow it to pivot, the slotted holes go upper most and allow height to be adjusted and the bolts tightened to firmly clasp the link slots or the first pot hole and it all moves, you cant pivot with a bolt in the slotted hole and expect it to maintain its height ,if you do it up tight it resists pivoting and makes no sense pete
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if its the heritage ones they are just photo copied and loaded on disc, advantage they have handbook, parts list, workshop manual and more all in one place .cover all models within the range . disadvantge cant use it in the little room unless you have a laptop. Peter
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just be careful if using dual nut that you dont overdo it and damage the threads . always use the heavy duty nuts and hard washers , re use of old tired nuts may strip and std grade nuts certainly will let go before the 3/8" 42-46lbft is reached or 6pot Mk11 7/16" 65-70 as do soft std washers spread and will loose torque on the nut very quickly. the slot cut in the block end of the stud is to allow any oil,water etc out as the stud is fitted or the hydraulic force can blow the casting as the stud is wound in. Pete
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nice top see you do your homework first thats a good start. if thats no improvement, double check the solenoid is getting power , the inhibitor switch and the one in the tail of the solenoid can give interrupted supply which can drop out with engine movement etc. suggest a small test bulb linked into the solenoid feed , if it stays on ignore all this , if it goes out when engaged start checking inhibitor switch adjustments , the relay,and a look at the solenoid , on some the solenoid end switch is accessible for a clean up, on some its completed sealed in and then its a replacement , Pete
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the gearbox on the small chassis cars was a development from the likes of the standard 8, its the weakest link in the end of design life and fatigue failures on our cars, reduce the oil specification at your peril Pete
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or a pair of long 3/8 sq extentions and a Uj with a suitable socket , and aim it down onto the nipple, bleed without a tube and r nip it up wash all with water to disolve any spillage. Pete
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sorry I dont have any info on the 2.5 clutch , there have been reports of new branded having rivet /torque plate rip outs, in general new ol stock should be ok but if a diaphragm cover gets dropped it can seriously upset the operation /centering of the fulcrum ring, if its old you dont know whats happened in its long storeage. I have used classic clutches and not impressed,, currently on a QH one and its been best so far its down to preference /experience. if you want long life then have the flywheel re drilled and fit a compatible ford unit , but need the correct splines but the more modern clutches have a much higher torque capacity availability makes them cheap and more bullet proof ( its not an area Ive ventured into) how long life depends on power and slip times , the more you slip the quicker it wears, high 1st ratio's make for longer slip times , and so on. if you dont use it it lasts ages.!! Pete
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Ok test disc thickness for diaphragm is 7.1mm ( again thats a compressed not free state thickness ) bet your 7.25 when nipped in the vice will be about right maybe just a little worn Peter
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need to know if this is a diaphragm or a coil cover coil cover test uses a disc thickness of 8.38mm to check this you need to lightly clamp the linning in a vice to slightly flatten the crinkle plates then measure the vice jaw width, disc on a diaphragm clutch is about 1mm thinner than the coil cover . sorry I dont have a manual for the 2 litre handy peter
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I would give the smiths valve a clean out and make sure the diaphragm is sound. oily deposits in the intake track are not overly important , it could even be due to overfilled dashpots not best to judge from a photo but the jet should be approx 2 mm lower than its holder, yours looks nearly flush which to me is set on the weak side what filters are you using ? Pete
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I would give the smiths valve a clean out and make sure the diaphragm is sound. oily deposits in the intake track are not overly important , it could even be due to overfilled dashpots not best to judge from a photo but the jet should be approx 2 mm lower than its holder, yours looks nearly flush which to me is set on the weak side what filters are you using ? Pete
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for one of the best sites around for good basic technical + photo's is Buckeye Triumphs http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm there's a good section on all you need to know about A types Peter
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give the carburetor exchange a call based in leighton buzzard , used them for years they do any/everything motor mower to combined harvester http://www.carbex.demon.co.uk/ many satisfied local guys have been used worth a call . Pete
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a coil cover disc will also be about a 1mm thicker , if you use a thinner diaphragm disc on a coil cover you will start off with a higher pedal load and a low clamp load., as it wears this will get worse until you loose clamp and have premature slip. if that helps, if you fit a coil disc to a diaphragm cover you get the reverse effect the pedal load reduces and the clamp load is excessive.. Peter
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we use a battery 1/2" drive impact wrench its off in blink in engineering terms 150lbs ft is not that monumental , about double what you can comfortably achieve with a 1/2 ratchet , so a breaker bar should work providing the flywheel is locked as has been suggested Pete
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some use a tapping screw through an opened up hole , screw it in and off comes the cap we did the nut idea, used a rivenut and a 1/4 setscrew, some weld a nut on the cap , needs a short setcrew in to block it off and use a long one to drag the cap off. sorry cant find the photo. Pete
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For single rail i think you need eg Rimmers GAE191 with the smaller dia and longer thread ,with pigtails fitted Pete
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degraded front diff mounts can also aggrevate judder. on our vit6 we had low speed and reverse judder with 2 coil covers ,a mod to 2ltr classic clutches diapragm unit and after the numerous clutch changes , a new engine back plate as old was like a banana , much rework of the withdrawl arms , diff mounts , and much more the problem persisted against all odds, last attemp fitted a QH diapragm unit and all peace and quiet ,,,judder free.....why is it when you replace the obvius contender the first problem remains to haunt you ??? convinced these little cars listen to what you say.. Pete
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having low gearbox oil level will drop out on load as said check inhibitor switch and gear lever wiring,if in dobt connect a small test bulb to the solenoid feed and if its out when its in you have a elec defect. gear lever wired switches are notorious for fractured wiring. Pete
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rubbery squeak is normally the pushrod traveling thro the Mcyl end cap stiff....is pedal box spindle seized in the pedal ?? has the gearbox nose got clagged up with clutch dust makes the throwout drag. thin linings will increase pedal loads micky mouse slave cyl rubbers that have grown with the fluid. just some idea's Pete
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make sure the metal pipe has no burrs or sharp ends , as you push the tube into the rubber hose its common that slivers of rubber get cut off these float back and forth in the supply tubing and unltimately block the small hole in the back of the float needle . Pete