Pete Lewis
-
Posts
1,687 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by Pete Lewis
-
the only pressured leak is the rear n/s corner which is the interupted supply from the rear cam journal so even thats at lower pressure. leaks down the side is just from retuning oils from the rockers and possibly a little splash from the cam up through the camfollower chest porting, I have seen the side face sealed with a bead of silicone gasket to reduce the seapage by piping it into the joint and wiping tidy.. just an idea Pete
-
there's a saying if it aint leaking it aint a triumph. its common to seap from the rear n/s corner where the rocker feed goes , we spoke about wellseal its good stuff used by many. I think the MK2 had the improved head porting, 7/16" studs to help with whats called panting , where the compressions move /shuffle the heads about, seapage along the sides is only oil draining from the tappet chest , or the pushrod tubes , any leak can be a messy problem but its not detrimental to the engine, just unsightly, if its pouring out there's something silly going on and that would need a resolve. Pete
-
its Ok to re check the torque, but you cant keep doing it or you collapse the shim gasket, as the 1600 is a steel shim gasket I remember we talked about the need to apply sealant all over it, I sure you did that, on the composite copper ones its common to leak and a smear around the rocker feed was normal. Pete
-
if there are some blocked rad tubes the tend to block at the top , this seals the tube which is filled with trapped air, as the rad heats the air expands and the water is displaced wise notes about head torque and the need for high tensile nuts and washers to get the 46lbsft. deformed washers and stripped std nuts all let the clamp go. no water in oil but combustion gasses get into the water jacket. the manifold and banjo and pipe to pump all form part of the bypass system for when the thermostat is closed, so without this you could have local overheating in the head or be unable to displace air locks when re -filling the system just some thoughts Peter
-
you picture shows them facing outwards is as the cantilever slide fits on the inboard side of the slide (well memory is a bit distant on that ) Pete
-
you picture shows them facing outwards is as the cantilever slide fits on the inboard side of the slide (well memory is a bit distant on that ) Pete
-
when it comes to the slotted mounting plates the WSM shows them upside down, the parts list shows them correctly the slot is at the top and is clamped to the chassis bracket at what height you desire by raise and lower the slots the bonnet pivots on the single hole you do not fit a bonnet pivot onto a slotted hole , there is no spacer tube to pivot on if you leave it loose enough to pivot it wont hold its place in the slot for long.. most are fitted upside down ..its your choice . Peter
-
ns/os glass are the same, the rearmost silent channel has the two lower angle brkts pointing inwards C/O canley http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/herald1360doorassembly.html&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/herald1360.html&category=bodyandfittings&xsl=diagram.xsl Pete
-
ns/os glass are the same, the rearmost silent channel has the two lower angle brkts pointing inwards C/O canley http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/herald1360doorassembly.html&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/herald1360.html&category=bodyandfittings&xsl=diagram.xsl Pete
-
are you sure none of the breather holes on the outer facde are not obstructed by gaskets filters etc..?? are the throttle plate discs the right way round ??? does this have the overun valves fitted to the throttle discs ??? Pete
-
the diff has two component functions the crown wheel is attached to a diff box driven by the prop thro the pinion, this gets the output at 90deg to the prop. the two short output shafts are co joined inside by two planet and 2 sun gears being the differential.which apportions the drive between the two shafts. if you turn the prop coupling and nothing else moves there are some serious faults this could be the pinion or crown wheel have dramatically stripped teeth, or the cross pin and sun gears have shattered, then the two short shaft should be removed (4 socket cap srews) and examined for breakage. these can easily be replaced but any work in the diff box or crown/pinion will need some serious read of the manual and best left to those who can, so check the short shafts and if OK just source another diff Pete
-
guess I have to plug this http://www.tssc.org.uk/index.php?option=com_fireboard&Itemid=55&func=view&id=90613&catid=215 these are tssc member prices, but are very cheap, very new,very genuine Borg beck manufacture ...not a copy . its easy to convert a 1600 to a diaphragm clutch , you need to drill a new dowel location in the flywheel. and use a 2ltr bearing carrier as its got to be a longer one. centre the cover with the setscrews , but fit a pipe olive on the bolt shank , and lightly screw in place, not utopia but equals out the bolt hole clearance,as the tapered olive centres the holes. drill the flywheel with a handdrill and loctite in a new dowel. just some idea's Pete
-
all depression carbs are as simple or complicated as you want to make them both su and stromberg do a good job, I always feel the stroms are a better engineered bit of kit, just strip bothe and lay the parts out and you can see there's a different mind set one god site for clues and cracking photo's is http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm never mind they are 'not my car' the details are common to all sizes just some evolution changes , but the gist of all you need to know is covered in here. except for the twin armed float and which way up you can fit it. in essence !! the float flat side is always at the bottom .and sits at an angle with the 18mm heght . Petel
-
good place for spares http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/product/14w-wiper-drive-gear/ Pete
-
Think i said somewhere the plastic ones are too thick and dont hold in the shallow recess in the tin cover, had some come loose tin sleeved seals fit fine ,and are shallower, so your solutiion should be fine , be it single or twin lip seals , just make sure the lip doesnt turn inside out when you refit the cover ,, youve had some fun with this engine .. more strong tea required . Pete
-
dont forget to check the master cyl is returning fully and the recuperation port is not being un covered covered , ie seized pedal pivots broken wavy wahser in the tail of the M cyl etc. just a obscure view it may be a fluid build up rather than stuck piston ... Pete
-
always remove the studs from the block and with some oil and wet/dry sand the face completely clean , use new washers and high tensile nuts, std nuts will fail and the old washers distort with the 65-70 lbs ft torque on the 7/16" unf studs. head gaskets are a one fit only never re use a compressed gasket a die nut down the studs is the best cure for clogged threads , and the slott in the one end of the stud is to allow any fluid trapped under the stud to escape or you can hydraulicly blow the block as you s=crew the stud back in. re torque the head nuts after 500 miles (as per handbook ist service) back off each nut 11/2 turn and re torque in the fitting sequence on nut at a time . Pete
-
whilst I fibbed about the number of metal blades I did say " can get a bit close to the rad which might want a shuffle on its slotted mounts " Ha hope it was all worth it Pete
-
see Ron's same post just down the page Pete
-
see Ron's same post just down the page Pete
-
Ron do you mean the silent channel that the glass rises /fall in or the bottom rack the roller runs in ?? silent chanel from Bill at rarebits4classics ..comes in a length and you rivet on the original supports. always make a sketch of these as they are beggars to re make, as someone always mixes them around when youre not watching and then they dont fit and you start to run out of spare channel.... guess how i know . Pete
-
Ron do you mean the silent channel that the glass rises /fall in or the bottom rack the roller runs in ?? silent chanel from Bill at rarebits4classics ..comes in a length and you rivet on the original supports. always make a sketch of these as they are beggars to re make, as someone always mixes them around when youre not watching and then they dont fit and you start to run out of spare channel.... guess how i know . Pete
-
old trick for metal covers is if the bolt faces are pulled into the gasket use / place a ball pein hammer over the hole and strike with a hammer to remove the depression caused by previous tighening. have had some poor experience with the rubber coated oil seal , they are a a bit deeper and have seen them pop inside , if you could have got a metal cased original makes it twit proof. ( ie good idea for next time ) and make sure the short screws are into the lower brg block . Pete
-
youve topped up the oil and checked the wiring, so what type is is Dtype solenoid is on drivers side J type is passenger side. to check setting of D type remove square plate in front of the sol. energise the sol. you will see this move the lever , in the lever is a 3/16" hole , you need to adjust/check this hole aligns with a similar hole in the case behind the lever ... normal to use a drill shank to slip thro' the hole's if you have a ammeter check the current draw 10 amps for a few seconds as it pulls in and there is a switch in the end of the sol, which once travelled cuts it down to 0.5amps. the switch is not serviceable , most are sealed in the back end of the solenoid boot. just some idea's Pete
-
dont keep re torquing you could go a one pull too far these studs are limited in yield as to 'how many ' times to do this its initial fit and torque once, re torque after 500miles once back off to eliminate the stiction one nut at a time is std engineering practice , as is said. test run is imminent then ???? Pete