Pete Lewis
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Everything posted by Pete Lewis
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I run a 3.89 with OD and and 2ltr 3 rail + dtype and she pulls around 3100 at 70 the 2 ltr box has a higher 1st gear and if you run 4 up and a boot full you can extend clutch slip times a little no experience of 1600 + 3.63 the 1600 has good revability but less torque , if you overgear it wont perform so well mid range if she's on strombergs you stand more chance as you gain around 11 bhp over the early down draft solex set up. Pete
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if its leaking from anywhere around the float chamber it has nothing to do with pump pressure the float bowl is open vented and atmospheric pressure only if the float needle is overriden by pump pressure then it will escape from the vent port in the outer face any leaks from elsewhere are down to distorted jet holder, ( seen some real mullered ones) undersize O rings or you have fitted an incorrect float chamber gasket there are many variations thro the life of these carbs and whilst they look ok you will find a cd , cds, cdse all are marginally different and if you follow the sealing line of the chamber there will be a small section that is left 'open' and there is a perpetual leak , It may be a new gasket but wrong generaion... catches a lot of guy's out . Pete
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Yes thats correct but.........its the off set of the pivot poss thats being questioned , you can change the height of the lever from the floor by turning the assy over so which ways up ? I dont have a pic and not getting under Pete
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just to add we used a swinger kit and big arb, had trouble with shockers bottoming out,hence hard ride low backend awfull roll when loaded and its off, a courier + 1" block fitted kept the bigger arb and its on rails in comparison, most important with any set up handling is dependant on the front and rear end geometry being correct with the appropriate 150lbs on each seat to set the static ride height. Pete
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think if its set at its lowest It can allow the slack cable to run on the propshaft the operating angle is more critical , can you have abrowse in a worrkshop manaul Pete
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as this has an open breather system any gentle meandering fumes from the rocker cap gauze or the lower level tube is pretty normal have you removed the gauze fitted between block and the alloy end casting of the tube breather and make sure its clear Pete
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easy to cut canvass rubber washers from thick truck mugflaps with a hole saw. el cheapo . in general its a solid washer on the front baulkhead inner mount and the two on diff Xmember. all others were 1 rubber pad with metal packer washers to correct heights certainly not multiple rubbers . we made a nice flat to drawing chassis and fitted a wibbly wonky 48 year old body and inplaces its packed out by around 25mm so use as much or as many solid packers,, so long as the chasiss doesnt stick out under the cills . Ha ! its also worth earth bonding the body sections together and to the chassis on rebuilding. Pete
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easy to cut canvass rubber washers from thick truck mugflaps with a hole saw. el cheapo . in general its a solid washer on the front baulkhead inner mount and the two on diff Xmember. all others were 1 rubber pad with metal packer washers to correct heights certainly not multiple rubbers . we made a nice flat to drawing chassis and fitted a wibbly wonky 48 year old body and inplaces its packed out by around 25mm so use as much or as many solid packers,, so long as the chasiss doesnt stick out under the cills . Ha ! its also worth earth bonding the body sections together and to the chassis on rebuilding. Pete
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simplest way to operate two starting chokes is to aquire a siamese choke cable we hunted ours down from rimmers bros. but dont have any purchase clues now, the Rootes group and TR6 used a twin cable Pete
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its possible to remove a std 2ltr on car , thats a fiddle of lifting the engine , unplamp the rack and move it forwards, and jiggle around till the height and angle allow it to drop, maybe a 2500 will be a tad more of a fiddle, if the pickup pipe jams in the splash gauze then you can get spanner and fingers in thro the sump gap and undo the three bolts let the pump drop in the sump to refit may need the gauze removing to allow sufficient fore/ aft movement , make sure the sump bolts into the briging block are ,not stripped and not too long and bottom out and then strip on rebuild. Pete
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its possible to remove a std 2ltr on car , thats a fiddle of lifting the engine , unplamp the rack and move it forwards, and jiggle around till the height and angle allow it to drop, maybe a 2500 will be a tad more of a fiddle, if the pickup pipe jams in the splash gauze then you can get spanner and fingers in thro the sump gap and undo the three bolts let the pump drop in the sump to refit may need the gauze removing to allow sufficient fore/ aft movement , make sure the sump bolts into the briging block are ,not stripped and not too long and bottom out and then strip on rebuild. Pete
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also keep an eye on the rear drums if the spline happens to protrude though the hub it can block the drum from sitting flush on the hub, came across this the other day and we had to open up the drum stud holes for clearance, the hub face was also bent from some previuos life mishap and the hub ,drum face had to be skimmed in a lathe . Pete
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yes you have to fit the later 2 ltr throwout carrier, there is also problems with some throwout bearings being only 15mm thick when design is 19mm thick all tis puts the lever in the wrong attidude for a good travel and the correct mechanical advantage ( lever 's and see saws) the fork is std across the range so whats on the 1600 is fine providing the pins are sound, if you have a thin bearing you can improve the lever action by pulling the spherical ball out of the clutch hsg and adding a washer or two behind it to raise the pivot point and correct a lazy laid back lever you can repair the pins with welded in cut down clevis pins, and if there's a wear point in the carrier groove remove the anti spin pin and drill a new hole somewhere else. make sure the clevis and fork on the pedal are sound and not worn a big oval hole and lots of lost travel. all these small pionts make a world of difference On mine we had to drill a new dowel location as the diaphragm and coiled have different dowel locations. Pete
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some bushes have a shoulder to give the bush centralised location others are plain bush an use a washer with a raised spigot to centralise its one of the most anoying and hard to track down squeaks , its easy to replace the top bushes with the car sat on its wheels , hold the shocker stem which should have flats to effect a spanner fit and remove the locknut and base nut, pull off top bush and washer, press the shocker stem thro' the hole and remove the underside bush, . if the shocker stem pops out of line , reposition and pull back up thro' the turret. do not grasp the shocker stem with moles or pliers or the next bump will show it now leaks, Pete
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No I wouldnt recommend 'Best' Ha ! Pete
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the best way to snap rockers would be having valve springs coil bound on full stroke ...have you checked ? Pete
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thats good . Pete
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hope you are going to fit a new fused supply to a pair of relays and use the old wiring to trigger the relays then you get 14+ volts at the pointed end not the usual 10volts down the old tired wires and switchgear even the old glowworms will burst into live with the correct voltage . which really makes more improvement per £ than replacing the lenses and bulbs. unless of course the sealed beams have failed Pete
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I converted our sprung clutched 1600 to a 2 ltr diaphragm unit you need to drill a new dowel hole as the two designs have different dowel locations you need a later the later 2ltr throwout carrier whis is longer to suit a much thinner clutch assy. what I did to redrill the dowel was ( not the best) but put a pipe olive on the cover bolts and lightly nip the cover onto the flywheel( less the disc) these olives centralise the clearance of the 6 fixing holes and give some degree of concentricity. drill the new dowel hole using the cover as a guide.. remove the bolts and olive and its done. its been fine and much more driveable , lighter to the foot. never mix diaphragm and spring cover discs as both are different thickness, the coil clutch has the thicker lining, fit a thick into a diaphragm and you loose clamp load and very light pedal, put a thin disc in a coil and you get low clamp load and a heavy pedal.. and the initial finger/pad position for the throwout will be to far out or to far in. TSSC shop are doing a special deal with Borg and beck new Units at really good prices Pete
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if you have the temperature compensators fitted on the sides check the two sealing rings and that the valve is closed, if the thing is not 'just' seated turn the small nut till it closes the plastic needle and shuts off the air bleed bypass to the throttle plates, if its ope all the time at cold and normal running you wont set the mixture correctly Pete
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the use of ep90 or sae30 or engine oil depends on the tooth loading and basic design Rootes boxes run on engine oil there are designed too, Triumph small chassis boxes are of very limited capacity and by design are required to use an EP oil, or life can expire , in fact they expire on ep90 without any more assistance in reducing the oil spec. both A D J overdrives are deigned to run on engine oils but will happily work OK with EP oils this has as said all the hall marks of fussy inhibitor settings. but always check the levels on a flat surface , clean the filters and on J type may need new O rings on the sol valve . Pete
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time to re think that you just may have some contaminated fuel clouding the issue diesel can burn white or blue , easy if some muppet has mixed the hoses over on the pump and youre on autopilot Pete
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Dave, dont forget to link in maybe a 1" drop plate and 6 long studs to get the camber down a bit . then one of bills deep cover plates to clear the studs there you are a new kit developed Pete
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206175 is the bracket for the slave, available from many suppliers, search as prices vary a lot around £50/60 but mick dolphin £25 http://www.mickdolphin.co.uk/ Peter
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if the drum doesnt fit flush and rock then suspect the hub flange has been distorted by past removal bending the faces, make sure if you have upped the stud size that the splined shoulder is not protruding thro' the hub flange and the drum holes need enlarging to clear them. always disconnect the handbrake when locking up the rear adjuster, reconnect to suit after locking, then back off the adjuster. dont do it with the wheels 'hanging'. if this does push back after leaving overnight but is reasonable after a padal press then hub float has to be the main culprit. worth a check on the wavy washer on the Mcyl recupleration valve . Pete