Pete Lewis
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Everything posted by Pete Lewis
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http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/10/18/tech-101-zinc-in-oil-and-its-effects-on-older-engines/ have used comma £9 25/50 but its lost its guts when hot , never the best oil psi especially on long fast drives,always a steady progressive droping so after reverting to Millers Pistoneze 20/50 thismbrought a complete change back to steady specified pressures in all conditions, if the zddp /zdpt are low so it seems is the oils performance guess it depends on just how and for what you use your car
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Yuo need a cover with a sealed filler cap when using a smiths valve sealed breather sytstem that cover and cap are from an ealier open vented breather dump the vacuum link and valve or change the cover pete
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just a point on safety,, dont use the integral seat belt mounts unless you seriously reinforce the floor fixings the originals are far to flimsy to be secure but having a decent headrest is good protection from any rear end collision Pete
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agree with the runners , long slides, but it depends , I often have to get 2 adults in the back,so bit bit more bum space is required, and the recline knobs are slow and labourious so to gain shoe horned clearance hence the mod to tip the back , Pete
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stombergs are generally CD 150 ( thames barrier type choke) mixture jet adjusts beneath CDS same but choke is now a side mounted starting valve may be only on one of the pair. CDSE has adjustment made tamper proofed , uses allen key or offset slot driver down the dash pot tube, can have temperature compensators on the side to bypass and speed up idle when very hot make sure no gaskets are upside down and blocking or obstructing the front face vent holes, same applies to the air box. make sure the two holes in the bottom of the air piston are actually engine side, in case the diaphragm has been fitted incorrectly. make sure the gaskets between the carb and manifold are the right way round and not obstructing the bypass ports for the temp compensators ( thats if they are fitted Float heghts should be 18mm from bottom of float to carb face , make sure no flaoting debris from disturbing the fuel supply is not being lodged behind the float needle valve , common for slivers of rubber hose to float and jam in these Pete
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9 spring cover has 3 9/100 lb springs and 6 blue 75/85lb springs dont have data for the 6 spring to hand my guess is if it slips under load you have a thinner diaphragm disc fitted in a coil cover ... this wont work. coil coveers takes a 0.305" THICK DISC if you strip it out lightly clamp the facings in a vice and measure its thickness . just a thought Pete
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have you checked the withdrawl lever pivot pin has not partly fallen out of the clutch hsg. the pin is renowned for dropping out, this losses travel and if its now misaligned you dont press the diaphram centrally and this gives judder if you look down the rh side of the clutch hsg you can see the hole the pin fits , the pin is held in place with a crinkle /sprung retainer, these disintergate and the pin departs out the bottom, many rebuild wit a headed bolt so you never loose it again just a thought Pete
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also make sure the pedal pivot is not seized, it can stop the Mcyl fully returning and the recuperation valve(reservior end of cyl) does not close so you loose hydraulic performance, there must be some small free play between the pushrod and the M Cyl piston.when pedal is 'back' the stuck disc idea is very likely, but you should still get a pedal pressure reacting against the cover springs /or diaphragm. check the withdrawl lever pin has not dropped out or the bell housing, thats common loss of movement. as is wear in the pedal clevis and fork. pete
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I made up a tilt mechanism , its shown in Encom 's link cant post photo as laptop crashed , Pete
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if D Type and, all else fails take out the top spool valve plug, remove the short hollow needle/valve pin and check the tiny hole through it is fully clear any debris inside will drop the pressure and erratic operation persists Pete
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as a compromise we added a plate inside the skin and filled with Marine Epoxy, fully water proof and tough as old nails 3 yrs on and still sound , just an idea , Pete
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as a compromise we added a plate inside the skin and filled with Marine Epoxy, fully water proof and tough as old nails 3 yrs on and still sound , just an idea , Pete
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firstly do you know what model overdrive is fitted, D type solenoid on drivers side J type passenger side most common is the D type, with any OD always check the gearbox oil level is up to the level filler ( plug on o/s front of gearbox.) the oil is common to both chambers aged broken wiring due to heat is common, especially around the inhibitor switch on the top of the gearbox. If its a D type , remove the os side cover and energise the solenoid, inside the cover is a short lever , pulled by the solenoid, in this lever is a 3mm hole, use a drill as a gauge it should pull the lever till the hole aligns with a drilling in the case behind the lever, if this is incorrect you can carefully adjust the solenoid rod nut to get things inline, if it was wired up though a hollow gear stick to a gear knob integral swicth , this suffers from wire degradation and thats where to start, yours does have that problem being column mounted . if you have an ammeter handy the D type pulls around 10amps as an initial pull, once the solenoid has pulled in there is a sealed switch in the end of the solenoid which cuts the current to a holding 0.5amps.. hence any poor connections can hamper the few second burst of 10amp pull in Pete
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make sure no1 copmpression stroke is actually where it is. for easy of turning remove the plugs , stick thmb over no1 plug hole . turn engin till air is pushed past thumb. now turn to align TDC pointer, remove dizzy cap check the rotor does point to where No1 ht terminal is, , if not move No1 lead to the rotor point and start 1342 from there. alternative remove rocker cover, get crank tdc pointers aligned, the rockers for 1 and 2 valves should have gaps, if either of theses two valves are being opened then rotate crank one more turn ...then check where rotor is pointing Pete
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my parts list shows 23 off HU0805 if i could find my hardware list i could get the size , but 23 bolts and 23 holes they are all the same (hopefully all short ones ) Ha !! Pete
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the alloy main bearing bridge takes shorter screws, if you fit the long ones they will bottom out and strip the alloy, tssc shop sell steel replacements ..much better if you have a stripped one, alternative for a diy repair they can be re tapped up a size or go metric. torque is quite low on these at 6-8lbft max Pete
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put a workshop manual on your easter wish list, all this generation of engines tapets are 0.010" set cold Pete
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check if the needle is proud,not shoulder flush with the air piston if the needle is low then then normal adjustment could give a low 5 turns on the jet , check the jet is centralised and the choke does actually return the jet to touch the adjusting nut, Pete
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whilst this site is not Her/Vit it gives some good colour photo's and clues about strombergs makes a good read http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm Pete
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My Vit 6 has std air box, 631 unwrapped manifold, plastic fan and side shield removed for access, used rubber fuel lines and she will idle all day without missing a beat, yours could also be related to coil temperatures , theres some rubbish condensers about , or just set on the rich side of normal, and under bonnet temp just over comes the fuel/air ratio and wont restart. if you revert to std airbox, don't use the convoluted tubes make up some from 1.5" waste pipe flare the end and its nice and smooth air flow.... very cheap too worth a check of the tappet clearances if the rotor arm has a rivet in it...get a genuine one (lucas or delco) check the coil 12v is correct polarity Pete
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its easy to fit the double tabbed float upside down and float levels will be incorrect, as inverted alters the hinge height, generally theres no need to bend the unused float tab. the float should have the contoured side in the fuel the flat side is on the topside , Ive used the Carburettor exchange in Leighton buzzard as the are local, then there;s Burlen fuel sytems, Andrew turner, and all the other retail suppliers like rimmers etc. float chamber gaskets can leak as the sealing outline varies with the generation of unit, look similar but certain areas will not be sealed and open to leak fuel Pete
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over the years theres a number of possibility Bill is best on this era early Vee and canvass pads arrangement round buffer similar to as show, but bonnet has flat location. last was more common rubber cone if the striker buffer on the bonnet is flat then you need a flat buffer if the location shows as a hole with chamfered edges then its a cone type. Pete
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14 do bolt on as direct replacement but the back of the hub is machined to reduce the hub fouling the caliper, if its a cast finish it may foul if its a smooth machine turned face then its OK you can fit type 16 quite easily the hardest job is to find the larger vitesse/gt6 caliper mount , they can take some searching, this fits direct onto your existing upright , the 16 fixings are only a few mm out of line to the 12/14 carrier looks as though they fit they wont if you use type 16 then g for the vitesse disc , about 1/2" bigger diameter. pete
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14 do bolt on as direct replacement but the back of the hub is machined to reduce the hub fouling the caliper, if its a cast finish it may foul if its a smooth machine turned face then its OK you can fit typw 16 quite easily the hardest job is to find the larger vitee/gt6 caliper mount , they can take some searching, this fits direct onto your existing upright , the 16 fixings are only a few mm out of line to the 12/14 carrier looks as though they fit they wont if you use type 16 then g for the vitesse disc , about 1/2" bigger diameter. pete
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d type is just an open breather, just a hole at 90 deg to the threaded part. I had some over spill and ended up fitting a tubed extention with an adaptor screwed in . so any loss is well away from frying on the exhaust, there's no volume of leak , just a continuous trace. having kept a good eye on oil levels and chats to the OD people there's no real reason why any internal splash migrates out of this simple breather . Pete