Pete Lewis
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Everything posted by Pete Lewis
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dont forget the Triumph designed oil feed to the rockers is an interrupted feed via a offset slot machined into the rear cam journal so it only get one squirt for each revolution as the slot aligns with the oils ways, if triumph felt a full flow was needed they would not have designed this fairly standard means of rocker oil supply. many older cars have this in place . Pete
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Before the days of diesel particle filters and catalytic additions, it was quite common to add just engine oil into the truck fuel tank, to regain power and consumption, it was a common problem with european trucks ,where diesel was less 'clean' they would arrive over in the uk and then expect warranty due to lost horses ,which was mainly due to low sulphur UK fuel . 1/2 gallon in 700ltr tank worked wonders. you cant do that now Pete
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doesnt matter what you use generate the charging circuit, 55watts takes the same voltage and current( unless you fit non road legal bulbs) be they tungsten or halogen ,ans yes halogen benefit from optimum voltage ,, but you will have that if the genny/regulator is sound. depending on age of sealed beam a replacement bulbed unit may be 10watts higher wattage than originals. but a dynamo working correctly is more than adequate, to power the headlamps, an alternator will give a higher charge at low engine speeds but out on the road thats not the problem. certainly a new relay fed feed will get the 12+ volts to the pointed end , and make a world of difference, to any lamp old or new. Pete
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will try to find early photo before we changed to strombergs, the rod throttle from the bulkhead has a riser connected to a spindle which runs through the base brackets of the header tank then a link drops to the levers on the carb balance spindles . http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/vitesseaccelerator.html&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/vitesse.html&category=accelerator&xsl=diagram.xsl see lower example . on solex there was a kit,mod to change the choke tube and correction jets ( still show in rimmers) and delete the accelerator pumps and blank them off. so if you get a set and they are missing thats correct. finding a decent fiiting hose from air box to filter is a challenge due to different diameters top to bottom. Pete
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if not started yet when wipers are off the spindles stick a card pointer on pointing to 12 oclock,, the secret is to refit the spiral rack so the gears in the wheels boxes on the screen panel are worked on the opposite teeth to the well used ones , might need to refit the rack a few times to get the pointers downwards if you remove the motor gearbox plate you can turn the rack over and again reverse the worn side, make sure all the tube clamps are tight, and grease the rack well on refit. all this will reduce some of the slop in the wipers sweep. Pete
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Ron yes this sounds like its wound in with a low battery and its stuck in mesh, some motors have a square end on the spindle to turn with a small spanner , but freebird is right time to remove and give the helix a wash with brake cleaner or petrol to de dust and degrease the drive. never oil the helix it attracts clutch dust and will jam very quickly again. if stating does become a problem, the gear so called high toque modern motors take no power to drive and will fling it over at a cracking rate can be expensive but are brilliant upgrade. Pete
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has no bearing on running IF the leads have been transposed in the cap , and if the drive dog is a bit worn its been known to misfit the offset the set up in the manual for the drive gear indexing is as much to do with getting the vac unit to not foul up and have no room to rotate the body for setting the timing. Easter is comming put a OE reprint ( or jumble) workshop manual, on a wish list .... or we sell heritage CDroms in TSSC shop which has all owner/parts lists/workshop manuals for all herald and vitesse for a few �s all in one disk Pete
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there is no mention of re torque in the 1600 workshop manual when replacing the head gasket as a repair. but it does call for a head retorque at 1000miles in the owners handbook as part of its first service !!! good old triumph cloak and dagger specifications ,, there always something you need squirreled away in a black hole if you do a re torque/ recheck always !!! back the nut off 1/2 turn before re tightening Peter
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sure its readable somewhere that the MKll cam is the' best for the least' in a 1600 ... Pete
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sure its readable somewhere that the MKll cam is the' best for the least' in a 1600 ... Pete
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years back at school we were welding names into plates from some recently charged bank of glass accumulators, wham bang !!! was only the metal carry strap that saved grief, I wonder if the terminals are still up there stuck in the ceiling panels of the science lab... glass everywhere and a big white patch fizzing in the floor........ Hmmm. live and learn Pete
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its said you can get the lower screw undone if you jack the gearbox tail up fairly high, like disconnect the mounting rubbers and lift till clear, !!!! if refitting use socket cap screws , then its do able with a flexi drive and hex bit Pete
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removing a d type solenoid is difficult due to access to the lower screw. you can test this , with simple tools and a cheap multimeter. suggest you remove the square plate in front of it, when the solenoid is 'on' it pulls a lever under this cover, the lever has a 1/8" hole in it , use a drill shank as a tool and it should fit thro the hole and align with a similar hole in the case behind the lever. adjustable by the nut on the sol pull rod. there are 2 coils in the solenoid and a built in sealed switch, coil 1 pulls the armature in only a few mm and takes a current of around 10 amps, as the armature hits the end of its travel ( and the lever hole is aligned ) it presses a sealed switch in the rear end of the solenoid and this cuts the pull in coil and now feeds a hold in coil , this coil takes only 0.5 amps and is what should be in operation whilst driving the 10 amp initial pull in only lasts for a fraction of a second but because of the current load requires a relay feed , if that helps Pete
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Cut ,bound and stitched are the cheaper option , fit is a compromise as the mats made flat, but unless you glue and screw them down they will ruck up with use and can end up a mess, felt backed hot moulded carpet it more expensive but replicates the original has a better pile and will look the part for years its down to price and preference, some price clues but cetainly shop around prices moulded Newton C 219 TSSC 206 Rimmer 252 stiched rimmer 158 Pete
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maybe yes, chains dont stretch they get longer as the links and pivots wear, this with the driven load wears a hooked tooth form. so new gear with a new chain makes for a happier solution, I would suggest you make a protractor dial and and borrow a dial indicator with this you can mark a positon on the dial at the same lift each side of the cam lobe you half the marks and thats the cam lobe bolt upright (TDC) you can do the same with the pistons make a plate to block the piston 10mm from the top , mark the protractor disc for this in both directions , then half the maks for piston TDC # then fit the chain wheel as said taut on the drive side and keep twiddling the gear to get the best line up of the 4 hole positons and once together recheck all lines up .. sounds a lot harder than it really is Pete
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as said if the holes dry then your fine, it was probably introduced on the prodn line as the hot wash of the block probably left liquid down the tapped holes, and blowing them out with an airline was a bit pre H &S but messy Pete
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on the clutch brg thoughts, the bearing sits against the pressure plate there is no free play, it rotates at engine speed all be it with a bit of skidding, so if this is totally seized it will squeal as the fingers skid on the brg face regardless of what you do with the pedal playing the pedal may alter the tone but the sqeal wont go away by in gear out of gear pedal up pedal down you need to remove the slave and pull the withdrawl arm rearwards to clear the bearing away from the rotating unit then you can eliminate from the quest. Pete
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have you checked the endfloat on the dizzy gear controlled by the pedestal Pete
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question where did the 2 hole cam sprocket come from , its not ( as said) normal they should have 4 holes which gives you increments of 1/4 tooth per hole set. maybe a new gear would be advisable, our 1600 had cam timing errors of about 1/2 tooth and it was always like a thruppenny bit , very unsmooth. pays to get it spot on, then you need a cheap timing protactor ( print one off the net) make a simple piston stop to arrest the piston eitherside of tdc and half the angle between, for accurate TDC use a dial indicator on the followers to and mark any equal lift either side of the cam lobe tdc and half it to get the Lobe TDC then fit the chain to align the best set of holes sorry needs a picture tells a load of words . Pete
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rather than copy all this out here's a link to all the clues you will ever need Birchy, there are some good photos on the buckeye site , ignor different models the principles are the same http://www.tssc.org.uk/index.php?option=com_fireboard&Itemid=55&func=view&id=44787&catid=219 centralising the jet on early constant depression carbs is same for for SU or Stromberg but if staring from rebuild , on a fixed needle carb. and you have checked the diaphragm & lugs are all located OK, the piston slides OK , raise the jet adjuster to make the top of the jet level with the bridge /jet holder undo the big jet holder nut two flats ensure piston is right down, tap the jet holder lightly ( tap with your spanner ) and nip it up . now check the air piston falls and lands with a clunk. if ti doesnt repeat above. its normal for only one carb to have a choke ( if thats a starting valve, with a tube to give excess fuel to the other carb, if you have the thames barrier device which lifts the air piston and blocks the throat then you have two of the same (similar) Peter
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many years ago when we first had the Vit6 we fitted some greenstuff pads to the little type 12s ,I guess they were 14 pads as they required some fettling of the backing plate to fit within the caliper type 14 pad plates are 63.3 x 55.0 mm cant find the size for a 12 its out there . if you end up with 14 calipers you may need to have the chamfer on the back a bit (as later were) of the hub machined to clear the caliper body. Peter
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if you do want to baffle a radiator , be aware there should be a circular hole left for the fan to suck thro' a partially baffled fan can fatigue and end up with fractured blades due to the changing loads on the blades as they go from free air to restricted air as it rotates , a metal blade failure at 3000 can hole a bonnet Pete
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Hmmm ......... Lied about the 4 blades senior moments !!! just checked ....... its was a 6'er its one of those yellows we fitted , cant measure the reduced noise level but it was very noticeable pete
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assuming the gauze filter and the magnetic rings are all clean you can have a look at the relief valve and its spring, then its piston o rings and the pump condition, is the small hole down the centre of the spool valve clear ? not uncommon for the pump cam drive keyway to be missing after a rebuild. you can also fit a lager diameter, higher output pump kit available, if there's any unsure about the removal taking the gearbox and OD out complete is in the end the best approach. and do it all on the bench Pete
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there's also a small dia hole to align the balance point, simpler and quieter option is fit a 7 bladed plastic fan unit far better than the old 4 bladed metal one , can get a bit close to the rad which might want a shuffle on its slotted mounts Pete