Pete Lewis
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Everything posted by Pete Lewis
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another quick way to get all aligned is use two decent screwdrivers and prise the bridge to open just a little this free's the cone and allows easy alignment. dont forget the pump cam woodruff keyway. and turn the cam to its lowest point to help the pump roller to ride up. if its ever sluggish check the small hole through the valve needle is all clear . Pete
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dont forget to check the simple basics first, ie wheel nuts are secure and also the rear hub centre nut. get someone to stand outside and listen to locate is it at front or back ? pete
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mk 11 wont fit the 1600 or mk1 as its longer shaft , pedestals need changing and you need to modify the end to take the mk1 end cap all a bit of a faf but possible using some of the old and some of the new to make up a hybrid, got that tee shirt . from memory we removed the oilway plug and tapped and bolted the end cap in place, Pete
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and don't be scared to add as many , as many metal washer/spacers with the one rubber as when fitting a 40yr wonky body to a refurbished chassis can lead to alarming amounts to make the panel fits correct and check there's no tub spread while its all off/loose. or the door bottoms will stick out Pete
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You may find the longer studs will foul the tin apperture cover BIll was making some with extra clearance If they do make contact it makes a right racket pete
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To reduce cable run lengths , and loading issues, its best to up the cable size to cope with the extra charge available and run direct from alt terminal to the starter solenoid, Pete
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1600 needle is 7b no springs piston springs richen the running mixture, stronger spring richer running. not specified on the 1600 any dabbling with the fuel hose connections often release floating slivers of rubber cut off when you insert the bundy tube, these float back and forth with the fuel flow and then jam into the back of the needle float orifice, and the low fuel gets you down to 3 cylinders if you are getting poor reaction to the adjusting nut there could be sealing washers missing, and fuel is coming up around the jet not through it. set correctly with needle flush with the piston the jet for general start up and runable is the jet tube should be approx 1.5-2 mm below the brass jet holder , make sure no gaskets or air filter cans are upside down and blocking the various vent ports in the carb outer face. I guess these have what I term the thames barrier choke , a ramp which lifts the piston and blocks the airway, make sure they both fold down flat ,level with the bridge in the throat. if its holding the piston up you wont be able to adjust anything Pete
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you really need a dial test indicator keep the rockers in place as this keeps the rod from wagging around measure the lift from the tappet screw face you can pick them up quite cheap ebay or various suppliers, always useful eg http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R1.TR3.TRC0.A0.Xdial+test+&_nkw=dial+test+indicator&_sacat=0&_from=R40 if you have some old feelers , put them in the gap while shes running , does it quieten any ? worn rear cam bearing can cause a lot of unsolvable tappet type noise as previous is this engine speed (crank related) or 1/2 engine speed , (cam related) Pete
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the 1600 spec does have no springs but should have a heavier damper weight ( the ring that clamps the diaphragm) ( about 3 time thicker than normal) some aftermarket diaphragms are very thick and resist flexing, I very much doubt Andrew would use these. if you remove the dash pot and drop a screwdriver in to add some weight does this allow a clunk,?? dont forget that when running the vacuum produces a lot of load and will overcome any slight resistance . when centring the jet do this with the jet adjusted up flush with the bridge, hold the damper down firmly slacken the holder 1/2 turn give it a tap and nip it up, then back the adjuster down two to three turns , Pete
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its likely the replacement has the rotor in a different orientation to what was removed, check where the rotor is pointing when on no1 firing stroke tdc then arrange the leads 1342 anticlockwise from that rotor position. if you dont know wher No1 is take out all plugs , stick thumb over no1 plug hole, get the engine turned slowly and stop when air pushes past thumb, now turn to tdc pointer maker and check where rotor points. thats where you need No ht lead terminal to be. you could also whip off the rocker cover and turn engine to tdc with the 1 & 2 rockers both having a gap. and whilst in there its worth checking the tappet clearances are Ok set cold to 0.010" , if there are some tight one it wont help the starting. Pete
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best to run a stout cable from the main output blade to the solenoid and scarp the orig harness. but retain the warning lamp (small ) if keeping the orig wires ... in simple terms the 30 amp lucar from the dynamo goes to the equivalent one on the alternator, the smaller 17amp lucar from the dynamo goes to the smaller on the alt, at the control box join all 3 30 amp lucar brown cables together join the two 17 amp wires together , this will feed the warning lamp, discard the black earth as not required but this way the wire capacity is limited.
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its a delco solid lug unit reconditions by lucas hence the LR prefix. for simplicity of fit, you really need a Lucas 17ACR style with a pair of lugs then you can use the solid vitesse dynamo bracket , on lug mounts its important to not clamp the rear lug as this has a sliding tube bush fitted this allows heat expansion, if the rear lug is solid it will quickly get fractured . Pete
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the most common which replicates the original rolling radius would be 175/70/13 which suit a 5.5 rim make sure the wheels you buy have the correct nave offset or they can foul to view size options and compare speedo errors see Minty lamb automotive http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/?page=tyre.htm Pete
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as the small chassis gearbox was a small upgrade from the standard eight with all its overloaded and unreliable features already built in you reduce the spec of the oil away from what Triumph specified at your expense when the layspindle and mainshaft spigot give up. or the teeth fatigue. there is also the design of the tooth profile which comands an EP oil to survive. stick to EP 80/90 GL4 and it might last as many years as it has already. yes the base spec for the OD is engine oil , as used by many manufacturers, but its an approved fitment by Laycock for triumph to use EP90 it will work fine ,, as it has for over 40 years. the gearbox and OD all use the same oil there is only one level filler but two drain plugs and no separation between the two parts. pete
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yes 153624 anti clockwise on the cap. messing with fuel lines can cause a well documented gremlin, as you insert the bundy into the rubber hose you sliver off a peice of rubber ,this floats back and forth in the supply lines and will block the back of the float needle valve, so one carb gets a block and your down to only 3 cyl and a balamce pipe .. Pete
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ah yes I remeber now !! the mk2 shaft is too long and you cant fit the rocker cover as it overlaps the end of the head would you like to borrow my tee shirt ha !
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Hi Mkll is very different and you have to replace some pedestals and shorten the end of the shaft and thread and tap the oilway to take a thrust bolt and washer arrangment for the end rocker ...been there. all doable but bit of a faf around to solve it. have made up a simple wooden swing arm and pivot to controll rotation of rocker and refaced with a small grinde wheel on a drill shapener the rockers are generally flame hardend and the depth is good enough to allow a reface down to the same as the fixed contact wear point I would say the scrws and pushrods are generally ok but best to keep them as pairs including the cam followers as the three all wear into each other , that doesnt recoupe problems of shaft and rocker bush wear. Pete
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Ive used a chuck type extractor for years , takes an inpact wrench, removes anything you get stuck with. ideal for refitting studs also. on any of our heads please examine the washers and nuts for any deformation, canley and others sell HD nuts and washers , std nuts will not take the torque and the initial fitting torque will be lost and the gasket fails again. Pete
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and dont forget the wires up the gear stick are notorious for shorts and heat/fatigue breakage if these ever need replacing use a silicon sleeved wire from maplins or elswhere, better in hot surroundings . Pete
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OD mainshaft is tkc923, unless you upgrade to a mainshaft 18mm spigot this typical failure will return again in the future bear in mind this design started with the standard eight and it the weak point . Mike Paporth can supply mainshaft and stem gears with the big spigot Pete
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depends on the length of the studs, on mine the rears just jiggled in , fronts you have to remove the disc, some may need to give the head a small grind/file to allow the stud head to clear the hub register diameter or you can pitch the stud. if you use closed wheel nuts make sure they are shorten to stop the nut bottoming out before ts clamped the wheel. Pete
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just I dont have a cover , but with door shut and butt on seat you cant see its untrimmed !! Pete
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as for the half shafts ,, my 64 1600 HB 4;11 diff had the larger shafts, have no idea if they were upgraded in production or some retro fit at a point in its life . to check whats in you do need to remove the 4 brg housing screws and withdraw the shaft and bearing assy, it wont upset any internal settings.and measure the shaft and spline diameters way back in history, my second car in 1966 was a rusty 59 948 herald and we sheared the shafts with 37bhp. I had no trouble with the 4.11 and there are many still running ...for better or worse Pete
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welcome to try mine if youre ever Luton way Pete
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I made up a latch to allow the basck to tilt, extended one of the bracket bolts with a seat belt bolt and with a plate made up on a pivot self locks easily and makes rear access easy. Pete