ferny

Remove the two end pieces carefully (rocking horse poo) and then it should pull off. Expect a lot of dirt and rust if it's been used a lot.

I'm on 500lb springs and standard dampers up front. Never had an issue with bouncy castle moments - one bounce off speed bumps and then it's steady. Maybe it helps having a much lighter engine?

Be careful with the car breaking, or at least quiet. You need a licence for "proper" breaking and people doing it as a hobby have been dropped in the poop by neighbours. Thought it best to warn you if you haven't had time to check the fine details yet.

Any chance you can start small and take your time setting up a client database and name for yourself whilst doing it part time? A lot of people who have been successful have done it this way as it's financially safer. Eventually you realise you have to do it full time. When I started something new like you it was through choice rather than being forced on me. I made myself (as much as possible...) comfortable with the idea of not making any money for five years. Worked out pretty well as within three I was in profit and another career opportunity came in front of me at that moment so I took that as well! It's 50/50 commitment and luck as to how successful it works out. I hope it goes well for you.

I've been using this one for some years; https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.codesector.speedview.free

They should work. And mine did, until they got tickled with a death disc... I had a go at repair and refill but it didn't work.

You may not think brake fluid will make much difference, but it does. For years I used the Halfords own-brand stuff but found braking deteriorated after around 3 months. It was still fine to use, but I noticed a difference to the pedal feel. I moved to Pagid as others have said and was happy. Took around 11 months for the same to happen to it. Currently I use Millers 5.1 and it's superior in every way. I won't be swapping to another. My fluids get changed on a 12 month(ish) cycle. As to asbestos pads. I'd say the ones I used were almost as good as the 1144's. Perhaps age had impacted their performance? I did also get them to fade at Donnington and I found as they were thin you could make them fade on the road. I'd only recommend 1144's now to others. You may be happy with your Green Stuff, some people are. If you swapped to 1144's you'd probably like them more. According to that tool I should be using YellowStuff... Apparently even OrangeStuff if I go on track. Either way, the Green Stuff aren't "cheap pads" and won't cause you to crash. You'll still be able to lock your wheels up with them if needed.

He means the cheapest price for those pads... Bloody hell. Anyway, hope you like them. Same as Nick, I wasn't a fan near ten years ago. They used to work best with drilled or slotted discs as they're very gassy. No experience since the compound change. I'd also consider replacing your brake fluid with better quality. It might make a marked improvement.

Took mine off around 2008. Been off ever since.

I'd have at least one.

Make sure your drain holes are working at the bottom of the doors. Theoretically water shouldn't go from the outside of the glass to inside of the door on the opposite side unless it's filling up. Make sure it's all weather safe inside with a good anti-rust waterproof wax. Seal it with some damp proof sheet held on by Puraflex 40. http://www.toolstation.com/sho.....roof+Membrane/p21675 http://www.toolstation.com/sho.....Sealant+300ml/p67949

Make sure your drain holes are working at the bottom of the doors. Theoretically water shouldn't go from the outside of the glass to inside of the door on the opposite side unless it's filling up. Make sure it's all weather safe inside with a good anti-rust waterproof wax. Seal it with some damp proof sheet held on by Puraflex 40. http://www.toolstation.com/sho.....roof+Membrane/p21675 http://www.toolstation.com/sho.....Sealant+300ml/p67949

Colours are fairly standard. Look on ebay or the silverline site and it'll tell you grades and materials they can be used on

Google "tyre age replacement" along with your manufacturer. I've not seen advice differ from "check yearly after five, change automatically at ten". In my experience, anything over five years goes rock hard and doesn't want to wear down, or grip.

The ones with bald tyres are up there with customers cars I've inspected myself. Can you guess which country these come from?

Dunno, not my picture. But all the ones showing Easter eggs are from customers complaining of vibrations.

Anyone wanna buy a tyre?

Out of interest, Continentals?

Two careers ago I used to inspect vehicles. The amount of tyres which look fine but are unsafe at closer inspection is unreal. There are certain tyre manufacturers I won't touch for that reason... I also tend to replace tyres shortly after getting a new car. I've either found out they're rock hard/old, unevenly worn or in one case de-laminate on the motorway. I don't trust previous owners at all. And again, that's from have a job getting up close to what people consider to be safe and drive every day.

Only the ones from Germany come from there, the others don't. Lots of pub knowledge about part works gets regurgitated. Few know the facts; http://www.partworn-tyres.co.uk/?qards_page=the-law

That's £16 for five year old random brand tyres? You must really like trees if you're looking for something similar to buy.

Sorry it took a while. Had issues with someone sending me a wrong part which delayed stripping down, and then I forgot... Rough tape measure readings; n/s in - 875mm out - 900mm joint removed - 780mm o/s in - 570mm out - 600mm joint removed - 495mm

Just buy some replacements. When I stripped mine I sold one for a tenner. If you add up the time and materials for repairing yours... Or http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=333754#entry4022154

Search Google for "mikalor clamp" to find these. http://www.mikalor.com/hose-clamps-high-pressure-eng

Moisture normally plays its part.