ferny

I put an early saloon tub on my '68 convertible. I can't remember the ins and outs, but don't rember it being hard if you know how to use and angle grinder and welder. The datums are all the same for the chassis.

For background info, I've just replaced the radiator I was using with one from a Mini. It's increased the capacity by 600ml. It always ran at 82 degrees (checked with ecu).  I'm running over well three times the horsepower than a standard Herald...   Deffo check the real temperature as I suspect the sender or gauge is reading in a way you're not expecting.   Weren't mk1 non-stabalised? Is there a chance of mis-matched components?

I can't see why the seal location would have anything to do with it. It's an open system which allows self adjustment. That concept just seems... very wrong.   When does the second pump help? As said, it could be a warped disc if it helps during movement, although I've yet to see a genuinely warped disc. Ever. It could be wheel bearings allowing the disc to move around and knock the pads back. Been there, had it happen. That's also highly evident after cornering.    Other than that, it's air in the system. It's the second pump which is key and that isolating a specific point removes the problem. Can't be a leak, can't be the master cylinder - if that one caliper makes a difference. And even if you bleed the terminus points in the wrong order all air should be out after multiple attempts.    I find a technique of personal preference is to pump until it feels hard, then get someone to tweak the nipple and allow fluid to shoot out under pressure and at speed. Rinse and repeat.

I had a look last night and I don't have confidence.    It lists it as "premium" for the spitfire, but no non-premium version or details on what the premium parts are? It all seems lacking on details for whatever reason. I get the impression it's a pre-built kit which will do some cars in an ok way, rather than a bespoke kit which will work brilliantly. I mean, no proper detailed photos for a £1500 product? I honestly don't see it being any easier or more simple than doing your own thing. Certainly many of the skills required to do it yourself will be needed here - wiring, welding, diagnostics, etc. You're paying a lot of money for the sales pitch suggesting you'll have an easy life for mediocre results.    And the cost... I bought, insured and taxed an MX5. Then fitted a new clutch and took it to Belgium a week later. It was then used to power the Herald and gave me near 100% extra horsepower. Accounting for every nut and bolt as well, I think it cost around £1200. Yep, no labour charges included as I did it myself, and no it isn't for everyone. But it puts that kit into perspective.   You'll have so much more hassle, inconvenience,  headaches, gained knowledge, satisfaction and enjoyment going down a more homebrew route.

This is how mine looked in the end - chunks missing all the way around. They don't hold up well to "tyre slippage". Maybe that's how they overheated... 🤔

SN832 are what I fitted some years ago and they are excellent. However, mine went rather hard after a few autosolos and they're only rated to 118mph (the Herald was going 120 at the end of Goodwood straight, with a slipping clutch). I've fitted a set of Hancooks now and I don't like them anywhere near as much. But they are rated for 130mph, which is the only reason for fitting them.   It's  Falken all the way for me, if suitable. Plus back then they only cost £30 a corner!

https://youtu.be/VKHFZBUTA4k

I'm sure Club Triumph has spare cash to set up bar code readers and all the technology to handle this in an event that only runs once every two years.  And what if the phone you're using has an issue?  Back to paper and pen for the remainder of the cars and now you have two systems in operation to record the cars, then wait till the information can be extracted from someone's phone some days later when the information is of no value. I said it before but it obviously hasn't registered. KEEP IT AS SIMPLE AS POSSIBLE There are many people on here who don't even use Facebook and you would expect them to have either a barcode reader supplied by Club Triumph or a smartphone that Club Triumph will have access to. And how exactly will the barcode on the car system work at controls at say, John O'Groats or Land's End where the marshalls don't even see the cars?   Rant over. Jim. This is potentially a good idea.   QR codes - free to generate Smartphone readers - free to download   On a rainy evening as we go into Scotland a code reader could be ideal, with the information being sent off down the road to the next control where a marshal could sign both for both control points.    Saves books getting soaked, queues and streamlines that section. It could certainly be tested on any event at the same time as the paper system being used. If it proves successful on two consecutive events then bring it into the plans.    You could also have a QR code in the roadbook on the signing page. The marshal could scan this and then an online page be updated automatically. The general public and marshals further up the line have a better reading of who is still in the event then. It's simple. It's autonomous. It adds less than 2 seconds to the signing procedure. It wouldn't even be that hard to set up. Just give crews a self-adhesive sticker in their event pack which they can put in their roadbook themselves. 

This may appear negative, but that isn't the intention.    Two years ago the website practically fell off the table, crawled into a fetal position against a wall and slowly started rocking itself for comfort. Is there any news into hope for it being better this year? Pages on the site when it has no load take 10-30 seconds to load at the moment. On 6th December it's going to have a real workout. Have adult incontinence pads and dribble bibs been ordered for the server in preparation? 

More likely down to space. You can't fit 140 cars in a control point car park designed for 120. Same goes for stops involving food.

Which sensor and controller are you buying? Pop onto their website and grab the manual as it'll have the information in it.

I'm running these with 1155 now. Well, I would be if it hadn't been off the road since October after someone modified the front end with another car... I'll let you know if I still get brake fade between roundabouts in Milton Keynes.

Two or three years ago I had 1.8mm of tread and a week away in the Lake District planned. Bring a unique blend of lazy and tight I decided I'd go up there and get them changed during a quiet day. A good few hundred miles later I was home on the same tyres with 1.8mm of tread still on them. They were 8 years old and had obviously turned to granite. I slapped on some sn832 after waiting for the only four in the country to be delivered and it took my weeks to get used to having grip again. It was a rather sobering moment of realisation that I'd not noticed how bad those tyres had become. I looked into it afterwards. General consensus of manufacturers is to check tyres regularly when they reach 5 years and definitely replace after 10.

Your wife is made from vinyl? Maybe a can of tyre weld is worth buying as well.

If too cold it'll snap. If "normal" temperature then it just pushes in. Keep in mind they shrink a lot so don't trim too short. Try some lubrication if you're struggling. If all is clean it takes about 20 mins to get one out and new in with sealant.

And leaf blowers attached to the engine.

You have to go to the entry list, not the RBRR page. Yeah, took me five minutes to find it as well. [Sorry, link no longer available]

Blank some of the radiator. When I had an MX5 radiator with a 1300 engine I had the same issue. I had to blank over half of it in winter to get warm air.

Noted. Hopefully it won't fill up instantly during a time some people can't get by a computer. But after all, this is RBRR entry not a Foo Fighters concert so should be fine!

Standard dampers and heavy springs here. Ideally you want to upgrade both but it's not strictly necessary if the dampers are in good order.

Exact same issues I've been having for years. Even my R9 greenshield I got through Clive and Bill did it. I don't think the outer layer like being exposed to the elements,  which isn't a great idea on a car...

To seal it.

There's a reason a lot of manufacturers use sealant now... http://www.henkel-adhesives.co.uk/2838_UKE_HTML.htm?nodeid=8797716348929

From experience and minuscule understanding without being able to fully explain it; A winder silencer and system with more bends will cut the higher noises allowing you to hear the lower ones. The longer the silencer more impact it'll have to everything and overall make it quieter. Pick as many holes in that as you wish as I won't be able to counter them. This is just what I've picked up through tinkering.

Looks like a hungry snake ate a rabbit then a hare.