ferny

Mintex is the only way to go at the moment and the best part is that you can feel them improve when slowing. They don't require any special or technical bedding in procedure. I'm on my second set of 1144's which are about to be replaced by 1155's. I've been through cheap pads, EBC Greenstuff, Pagid and asbestos. Asbestos were similar to 1144 pads but more linear. They also faded with heat just the same as 1144 do, with spirited driving I might add.   Your discs look beyond shot and almost as thin as the bodywork. You should be able to lock up the wheels if the brakes are working correctly. 

Have you adjusted the carb or just bolted it on? Sounds like you've done everything except set it up to the match the engine.

I'll second that. There's no benefit to fitting an electric fuel pump to a standard engine. You'll gain nothing more than an extra item to go wrong.  And that's coming from someone with a fuel pump delivering 250 lph at 5bar because I'm not running anything like a standard engine, if that means anything!   

The Acclaim is on its second set of Toyo's in that size. Good tyres, but very soft sidewall which does notice. Also, when they start to wear they go quickly, which is worth keeping an eye on. 

If you go and look at one, take someone with you who knows how to use filler. They'll be able to spot bodges and rust.   And that's your main issue - rust. Anywhere water can settle will happily rot. Bottom of doors, bottom of a-posts, bottom of b-post, corners of the boot floor and all of the chassis. Check for previous repairs to the chassis and poor welding.   Mechanically, nothing is past fixing or replacing and it's all easy to learn and with a bit of time and effort, easy to master.   Don't underestimate labour costs for any work you don't do yourself.   Generally speaking, anyone confident in checking over an old car should be able to spot issues. You'll only find out the more entertaining ones after you drive it for a while!

I used this kit on my tank in August after finding a hole near the drain plug (which I use as the tank outlet) caused by rusting on the outside. I brazed on a repair first, then used what was left after coating the inside to paint the outside too. It's messy but can't say I'm overly worried about it flaking off. https://www.frost.co.uk/por15-small-fuel-car-tank-repair-sealer-kit/

Yep. Also interested if I can fit it around my job.

The job of the fuel pump is simply to supply components with fuel, so it never increases power but what you're supplying may. In your case, it only has to ensure the float bowls don't run dry. If you give them more fuel than they need, it'll just pour onto the floor  

Replaced the UJ this morning, now waiting for some dry ground to put the assembly back as I'm working outside. It is GKN which has failed. Hopefully, this will cure the clicking noise which appeared out of nowhere.  

I plan on replacing the o/s rear uj which failed on the last run again this weekend. I'm either setting a new tradition or going too fast on round-a-bouts. 

Fair point! Thought I was reading a post in the Herald section but now see it's for a 1500 Spitfire. Discount my previous post as I think the 1500 is spit as you say.    Or, don't they have a proportioning valve which causes similar symptoms? Never worked on 1500 brakes.

Did the backs lock on as well? If the fluid was "locked", why did you need to do both fronts to release the whole system?   I'd be suspecting the front flexible hoses and saying it's bad luck both went at the same time.

You could cut some floor out, but you'd still have to get the body to a place where its weight isn't preventing the outrigger being correctly orientated. Plus, you still need to weld to the side rail. Although mine wasn't and I don't know if that's normal.   My solution wasn't ideal as the body tub, rear suspension and engine being in restricted where I could measure from. I also lost loads of places I could measure from when I cut off the siderail and replaced it with one I'd made myself. And let's not discuss the boot outriggers which were a completely different shape to what was cut out.   The bottom line is, don't try and cut corners to make life easier for this job as it'll only bite you at some point. Ideally you need the body well out if the way of the chassis. What I did was the best solution for my restrictions. 

You need access to the top of it in order to fully remove the old and weld the new. This was mine in August.   

Grad a timing light and when you get a misfire check each HT lead for constant rhythmical spark. If something is wrong, do the same for the king lead.    It's a simple test and gives you something to work from when the misfire is happening. You'll be able to pinpoint whether it's a spark or fuel issue.

The first one looks like it's breaking apart and the second photo isn't detailed enough for me to tell.  There should be no "sag" to the mount. I became so fed up of replacement mounts failing - in one instance it broke in two within months - that I used solid engine mounts for a few years. 

You can find people discussing it here; https://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/214905/used-jaguar-xj8-engine-doner

L - pulling away, stop-start traffic and hill starts. * - normal driving, accelerating to 50mph for merging. OD - cruising above 30mph

Start it up from cold and use your hands to feel for the leak. You won't have long before gets to ouchy temperature though.   Does it need redex treatment? Put some in the bores, leave over night, put some more in and wait half hour, spin engine over (cover holes with rags!), put plugs in and start. You'll probably get loads of smoke and be able to spot a leak.   Wait for a realy cold morning, start it up and look for condensation coming from a gap.   Use your eyes and look for black soot at joins.

Mine certainly handles better lower, but with the big exhaust I only get an inch of ground clearance. Country roads and all speed bumps become a problem. I have to raise it for the RBRR and MOT but normally it has a 1" block, 1" lower springs at 500lb and standard anti-roll bar with rose joints. Shocks are Gaz adjustable. The video shows it handles alright. Cant wait to get the Subaru diff in so I can accelerate though! When it's at normal settings it just doesn't feel as planted, but i worry less about clouting the exhaust on bumpy roads, which more than makes up for it.   https://youtu.be/XXOUuEb6spY  

However there are at least another 1350 CT members that might like to know what is happening  with events like the RBRR, and to post something to the effect of what  the current situation is.Some members(not runners) may have had plans to view or spectate on the event .....and not realise the event had been cancelled for 2020 and the postponement details. I suppose the same applies to the 10CR     I don't fully understand your point, Mr C. Other than emphasising the thought that the website should be used? Which is great, because it's not! You're not going to get the massive thread full of excitement pre-RBRR anymore because the website has been left to die and Facebook has been encouraged to replace it by club officials choosing to use it over this place. The activity has migrated to a much more convenient system which actually works.    If anyone outside of an event wants up to date info then they'll have to read it for free on Facebook as you'll not get it anywhere else. Which I think was the original point?    This isn't a pop at anyone specific, more of a final sigh.  Club Triumph - The Club Which Doe... Used To.

To be fair to Tim, the RBRR team is using the communication method they always have and stated they will use, which is personal email addresses of the main entrant. Event info being posted on the forum has always been lacking and there has never been any concerted effort to display it as "news" on the main website.    Of course, recently it has gotten worse and, well... why join the club if it is promoting the use of a free medium anyone can register with to communicate with its "members". CT has now become something which runs a small number of great events, but has the presence of a generic local club which has to use the convenience of social media to exist between when those events are taking place. 

There's a nut on the bottom where it enters the cabin. You'll see/feel it if you reach up behind the dashboard.

I had to adjust my valves on a 10CR with a mk4 Spitfire engine. They'd been done just before the event and apparently it was an unleaded head. Also had plenty of VSR on standard 1.3 Herald ones whilst using Castrol additive. Maybe I just used to work them harder than most...   You'll notice it's happening on your regular service checks. Or, if it's bad as in my cases, you'll notice the power drop off. 

I put an early saloon tub on my '68 convertible. I can't remember the ins and outs, but don't rember it being hard if you know how to use and angle grinder and welder. The datums are all the same for the chassis.