glang
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Everything posted by glang
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Hello Mark, cant you just cap the adaptor take offs temporarily until youre ready to splash out on the oil cooler? And with the GT6 engine what about a change of bearings - its really cheap and easy to do with the engine in the car. If you do it in time these sixes can go on for years with out the need for expensive regrinds.....
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yes if the choke lifting bar that sits under the piston is going back to the flat position and the piston is free the problem must be with the butterfly operation. Stick with it - this is the fun with resto projects! You just keep knocking down problems one after the other till youve either got a fantastic car or run out money and/or patience (woot)
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You could also remove the airfilter box and with the engine running look to check that the piston is rising and falling freely when reving. If not maybe you have a a split in the rubber diaphragm which would also give a very weak mixture....
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when u say top John is that the top of the jet flush with the bottom of the orifice? Then try winding the jet down more as it sounds like youve still got it too weak. The three turns is just a guide to start with and lowering another 3 turns wouldnt be unusual.....
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Well I suppose you do take more of a gamble with cheap stuff and of course youd want better quality if working with tougher materials or repeating the job many times such as in a repair workshop where time is money.....
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Hey I found this on line which is interesting: Air velocity past a pickup point in the venturi area causes a negative pressure in the fuel well. Atmospheric pressure in the bowl (the bowl is open to the atmosphere via the bowl vent) pushes fuel from the fuel well through the pickup into the venturi area. With the engine off, fuel in the fuel well will be at the same level as the fuel in the bowl. The level of fuel will alter the amount of negative pressure necessary to cause the fuel to flow. A good general rule is that a 1/16 inch change in fuel level is approximately equivilent to one jet "size". This approximation is good to know when "dialing in" a different carburetor, as it allows the tuner to "try" a jet size without buying the jet. However, don't try dropping the fuel level by more than an 1/8. And this change should not be permanent, only for testing.
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In this case the level in the chamber would be running higher so it would be easier for the venturi effect in the carb to suck the fuel from the jet hence you would have a richer mixture. How much this effect is I dont know but the level setting recommended by Triumph seems to be quite precise so I guess its important.
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Well the float would have to be sitting very high (ie the distance from the base of the carb to the bottom of the float would be much less than the 18mm that my manual quotes) so that the float is reaching the end of its travel before it has fully closed the needle valve. It also suggests that the different washers can be used to change the level so avoiding adjusting the floats themselves. However I cant see the float adjustment being the problem as it usually only affects the fuel mixture and not cause overflowing. If the needle valve washers didnt seal for some reason or the floats were, as suggested, catching on something then you'd get it.....
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Bloomin Chinese (mad)
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well its a bit fiddly but you can remove the bowls off the bottom of the carbs and then blow into each carb by its fuel inlet (after removing the fuel pipe of course) then you raise the float up gently by hand until at the correct level it closes the needle valve and you can no longer blow air through. If you can continue to blow something is wrong..... With the floats its unlikely that both have failed so I wouldnt be in a rush to replace them just yet. If the needle valves work correctly and at the right float level the next stage is probably to remove the carbs completely as its quite difficult to work on their underside in situ. Then closely inspect the floats for possible punctures shaking them to see if petrol has entered inside (the idea being that if it leaks it wont float and do its job). As an aside I assume you havent got an electric fuel pump fitted which could be overpowering the needle valves?
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I used one of these cheap jobbies to replace all the original lines on my vit with no problems or leaks. I wouldnt recommend it for a garage as there might be easier to use items but as I wont be using it again for another 40 odd years, as always, I wanted to spend the minimum 🙂
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well its got to be float/needle valve related. Either: dirt in the valves/some other problem with them so not sealing properly or floats not working/poorly adjusted. I would revise the system again checking by blowing through the valves in situ that they seal when the floats are raised by hand as well as closely inspecting the floats for punctures, free movement and correct height setting. Also you should look for any dirt in the bowls and in your fuel pump filter as an indication to the cleanliness of the fuel supply system. Stick with it as it cant be anything too serious.....
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You have to compare like for like: the Gunson stuff is cheap and would be no good for a workshop using the equipment day in day out. I personally want to spend as little as possible on this stuff as I use it just once in a while and have better things to spend me money on like petrol (woot)
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Hi MarkE, a disadvantage aside from the cost is the complexity/fragility of that bit of kit - more to go wrong/break than a Gunson or, even more so, your ear! It looks like a rubber cone fitting similar to a Gunson so should fit a very wide range of carbs.....
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Ahhhh, does it look like there was a screen at one time? Mine was held in place by small metal fingers that are part of the sump so maybe you can see these still? I wouldnt have said its critical as its only to stop fairly large items which shouldnt be there anyway but hopefully a Herald expert will be along soon....
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Ahhhh, does it look like there was a screen at one time? Mine was held in place by small metal fingers that are part of the sump so maybe you can see these still? I wouldnt have said its critical as its only to stop fairly large items which shouldnt be there anyway but hopefully a Herald expert will be along soon....
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I dont know about the herald but my Vitesse had the original pump without stainer. Any large debris was stopped by a screen fitted over the top of the sump however Ive now fitted the newer larger capacity pump which does come with its own built in strainer. In one way the original system might be better as the screen has a much larger surface area than a pump one so could be less prone to becoming blocked over time.....
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I dont know about the herald but my Vitesse had the original pump without stainer. Any large debris was stopped by a screen fitted over the top of the sump however Ive now fitted the newer larger capacity pump which does come with its own built in strainer. In one way the original system might be better as the screen has a much larger surface area than a pump one so could be less prone to becoming blocked over time.....
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Agree, theyre too bulky. I went with a MK2 stainless standard system on my MK1 Vit cos it was bigger bore and didnt have the centre box. For me the sound is just right, throaty without being intrusive
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Hi thirsty, yes definitely tackle all the easier obvious options first. However if you do decide to take off the sump (which will probably require the engine mounts undoing to lift it up a few inches) why not inspect a bearing or two while your at it? Big ends usually wear fastest and you might just see the copper underlayer beginning to show through the white metal. Of course cleanliness is essential as is putting everything back as was and with correct torques...
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My original pump was out of tolerance and the cost difference of the bigger one is negligeable so I wacked it in, after all you cant have too much oil can you? Has your GT6 got an uprated oil relief valve spring cos my manual says the standard one should dump at 45 - 55psi.....
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I cant see it being a relief valve problem as the pressure does reach 60psi when cold so the spring must be good. I think its more likely to be worn crank bearings/oil pump and wonder how miles its done? Ive just done both on my vitesse at only 65000 genuine miles with the engine in the car and using the uprated oil pump. I caught the bearings just at the right time and now Im getting a decent pressure even on hot tick over
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ummm yes that would explain low compression although I would have expected to find it on both cylinders. Anyway I suppose you'll check the head for flatness and also grind the valves before reassembly?
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Mine does exactly this if I forget to put in the Millers VSP octane/lead petrol additive. When dosed correctly it runs great with no need to retard the ignition timing from the standard setting.....
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It does sound like you're closing in the problem although Ive another possibility to throw in: its a long shot but I see theres also different pulleys available, could you somehow have the wrong one fitted.....