New brake pads & pedal to the ground !

[Pete Lewis]

if the rear brakes were adjusted  with cable 'off' to lock up  reconnect to suit  then back off adjuster to free the brake ,
then the rear cyl are actually fully retuning and not having to open to make contact with the shoe

then putting the HB on has no bearing on the problem

if applying the HB makes an 'appreciable'  difference then the rears are not adjusted correctly

calipers are pretty inert things
they either   leak, seize or work .if neither apply then  they have to be full of air .

do the pistons attempt to move out even if the bleed is unknown ??

do you get a good squirt from the bleed tube  on the calipers or just a few dribbles    ???

Pete

[WIMPUS]

This morning got my new master ...
Well, outside had a little bit of rust and could see one of the 2 outlets had rust in them ! :(

Got it apart and even on the inside it's rusty.
So now mailed the supplier :/
Better bought another one here locally, it is then a lot more expensive then in the uk but .. i would have got a good one then!  :-/

I need to pump the pedal twice now to get a good feel and it does brake then (front wheels lock up).
Have bleeded it again this morning and no air in the system.

[markcro]

Where are did you buy it? That is shocking that there is rust in it.

[WIMPUS]

markcro wrote:

Where are did you buy it? That is shocking that there is rust in it.

Mev Spares (Jumble master on ebay).
Mailed them, hopefully they mail back... otherwise i will let somebody call for me that lives in the UK :)

[WIMPUS]

Just had a look for the price here in Belgium ... crazy !  :o

206 euro/ 150 £ for a Tandem master  ??) ??)

[Nick Moore]

Yeah, I found rust in my NOS master cylinder as well. I'll get it resleeved rather than hope a replacement is any better.

[markcro]

From memory a brand new one from Rimmers, etc. is about 130?? Worth checking.

[WIMPUS]

markcro wrote:

From memory a brand new one from Rimmers, etc. is about 130?? Worth checking.

130... that's nearly the same as here and then you still need to pay shipping.
At paddocks it's around 110 incl shipping.

But do check the reply below this !  :P

[WIMPUS]

A friend on fb called for me to the company.

He told me it seemed a good guys, works & sells from home.
Can't reply on emails much as he has loads of them & working on his own.

He's sending me a new one and a Lucas /TRW one (so better quality).
So it seems he had problems with the others before.

Hope it does arrive fast, will take another week i guess  :B  :)

[WIMPUS]

Today got my new Lucas/trw brake master.

Got it out of the box and could see something strange ..
The boot on the end of the master was looking strange, when i removed it the piston jumped out !
Seems the clip that holds everything down was loose  :-/

So after a bit of a 'fight' i got it back in and when i push the piston in the grommets on the master jumped out.
So it seems to have good pressure, not to test it on the car ... that will maybe be for tomorrow.

really hope i get good brakes now again ! :)

[Phwoar]

Got my fingers crossed for you!

[markcro]

Good luck!  8)

[WIMPUS]

My uncle called this evening that he had time to help me again with the brakes.
We bleeded the brakes (again !) and put the new MC into his place.

My brother stopped there also to have and look and while i was pumping, my brother was filling the mc up & my uncle bleeding each wheel.
So again a real family event !

At first feel and sight it wasn't a lot better then before  :o
Left the car for a while and warmed us up indoors.

Drove back to home and seems a got a better pedal now, very solid one after a small pump.
Had a test on dead end empty road (no houses & stuff), sort of my testroad i always take.

Pumped once and then braking everything i could, front lock up easy .
When i don't pump once it does stop good also (everything in my seat was laying into the footwell).

Going to have a look at the one left piston and see how it goes then.  :)

[JohnD]

I've not read back the XtyX pages of this thread, but you STILL have to do a double pump to get a firm pedal.
That says to me, piston knock-back.

If your discs are not rotating with their axis perfectly aligned with the caliper, then it will push the pistons further back in their bores.
When you reapply the brakes, you have to take up this distance first, before the pads grip.

Test:   Apply brakes when stationary.  wait five minutes and apply again.
Fully firm pedal, no need to pump = piston knock back.

The contrast is when moving, when on reapplying the brakes after a short interval, you need to pump.

Knock-back can be:
Warped discs - check the run-out with a dial gauge,
Flexing stub axle
Worn wheel bearings.

John

[WIMPUS]

JohnD wrote:

I've not read back the XtyX pages of this thread, but you STILL have to do a double pump to get a firm pedal.
That says to me, piston knock-back.

If your discs are not rotating with their axis perfectly aligned with the caliper, then it will push the pistons further back in their bores.
When you reapply the brakes, you have to take up this distance first, before the pads grip.

Test:   Apply brakes when stationary.  wait five minutes and apply again.
Fully firm pedal, no need to pump = piston knock back.

The contrast is when moving, when on reapplying the brakes after a short interval, you need to pump.

Knock-back can be:
Warped discs - check the run-out with a dial gauge,
Flexing stub axle
Worn wheel bearings.

John

Going to have a look today at the pistons to see if they move freely.
Wheel bearings are still good, discs are new (8 months old)..

Before i put this master on i needed to pump 3 or 4  sometimes.
And when i just changed the pads i could pump 40 times (until my foot/ leg got tired) and no pressure, rebuilded the master and then i could build up pressure.

Hopefully i will get it sorted out, as before i had a very good pedal, the best in a long time.