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From Mintex:

Bedding Procedure for M1144 / M1155 / M1166

1) Clean discs with brake cleaner

2) Following initial brake test start with 3 – 4 light applications from 30mph down to 0mph.

After these, follow the steps below according to Material.

M1144: 6 / 7 medium pressure applications 70mph down to 30mph

M1155: 8 / 9 medium pressure applications 90mph down to 30mph

M1166: 9 / 10 medium applications 90mph down to 30mph


When carrying out the bedding process, do not allow the brakes to drag, do not left foot brake. To do so may result in damage to, or failure of the brake system.

Leave the brakes to completely cool.

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cliftyhanger wrote:
or here...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MGB533-MINTEX-M1144-RACING-BRAKE-PADS-FAST-ROAD-TRACK-NEW-IN-BOX-/151344766776?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item233cd9df38

But there is a list of cars the pads fit, so they may be available in Belgium??

Be Careful.

"MGB533" Googles as "standard" pads. Not "race".
It's also the same number as in the listing Wimpus posted above.... https://secure.micksgarage.com/proddetails.aspx?pid=1316270&pk=36810
which have been identified as NOT 1144 pads. (And Micks is selling them for $25.56 Canadian which is about £13.92.
(I also noticed that Micks does not have "Triumph" in their drop down pick list, which seems odd. Hell, they've even got Reliant on the list!)

BTW, this seller will ship those pads to Canada for £3 so, Belgium should be no problem.
4526 wrote:


Should these fit on a Spitfire 1500 ?
I thought they where the same as a Ford Escort, Volvo 240 ....
But can't mail the seller  :-/


Scroll down to the bottom of the description.... "Business Seller Information", "Contact Details" - Email:ebaysales@ybcars.co.uk

Scroll further down... "Questions and answers about this item" and click "Ask a question".



Hope that helps.

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9442 wrote:

Be Careful.

"MGB533" Googles as "standard" pads. Not "race".
It's also the same number as in the listing Wimpus posted above.... https://secure.micksgarage.com/proddetails.aspx?pid=1316270&pk=36810
which have been identified as NOT 1144 pads. (And Micks is selling them for $25.56 Canadian which is about £13.92.
(I also noticed that Micks does not have "Triumph" in their drop down pick list, which seems odd. Hell, they've even got Reliant on the list!)

BTW, this seller will ship those pads to Canada for £3 so, Belgium should be no problem.


Scroll down to the bottom of the description.... "Business Seller Information", "Contact Details" - Email:ebaysales@ybcars.co.uk

Scroll further down... "Questions and answers about this item" and click "Ask a question".



Hope that helps.


i've just got my brake pads in the mail..

they are MGB533 and it says M1144 on the box and on the pads ..  :)

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1729 wrote:
Wim,

May I ask where you have got your M1144 pads from as I wish to fit them also on my Spit 1500.  Rgds, Ken

Will need to look this evening on my ebay ;)
(Ps; i forgot to sent you a message about the dutch triumph day  :B, have you been to there then ? Or seen my spit? :) )

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4526 wrote:

Will need to look this evening on my ebay ;)
(Ps; i forgot to sent you a message about the dutch triumph day  :B, have you been to there then ? Or seen my spit? :) )


These ones i've bought ...
http://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/151344766776?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

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Hi Wim,
Thanks for that and yes I did go to the Dutch Triumph Day. I did not see your Spit however I wasn't really looking for anyone in particular as there was a lot of cars there. I really should have paid more attention and looked out for you. It was a good day anyway as I spent a lot of time watching Nico Baas tuning up cars that had problems. Hopefully I will see you at future events in Belgium en Nederland...Thanks again. Groetjes, Ken

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  • 2 weeks later...

Fitted my new discs and mintex m1144 pads this evening ..

Followed the procedure like they said (as much is i could).
And drove some more this evening and they do brake, but i get a sqeek when stopping/braking..

I've used new sqeek plates and copper slip.

Do then need to be run in more or .. is there something wrong ?
Disc where cleaned a few times before the pads went on.

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Have you followed the "bedding in" process?

Quote:

Apply 2-3 Light Applications of the brakes at 30mph down to 0mph

Apply 3-4 Steady Applications of the brakes at 70mph down to 30mph

Leave as long as possible to cool down.

DO NOT LEFT FOOT BRAKE

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9077 wrote:

So the explanation given here is incorrect then?

http://www.subaru4you.co.uk/brakes/whygrooved.shtml


Yes, it is incorrect.
Note: the web site where that advice appears is selling grooved and drilled discs!

The only 'gas' around a properly bedded and used pad is hot air - no irony implied!
So there might be some point to grooves, but holes?    As each hole passes under a pad, another pad blocks the other side!  Nowhere for hot air to go!

And holes will weaken the disk; discs can develop cracks around holes, making the disc scrap.    High level race teams that use iron discs will inspect after every race and replace at once if necessary.   Grooves (IMHO) carry a similar risk, to no advantage.

Squeaking  - check for free movement of both pistons.  If one is slow to come on, this will angle the disc and the pad.  And while copperslip is often recommended, the idea is that the grease component melts off or vapourises, leaving the copper as a lubricant.   Do you want melted grease on your discs?
Better to use something made for the job.  Here's an example, a special grease, plus some adhesive pads to go between pad and piston:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MINTEX-CERATEC-LUBRICANT-GREASE-AND-4-ADHESIVE-ANTI-SQUEAL-BRAKE-PAD-SHIMS-SHIM-/251292559571?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a823428d3#ht_697wt_1190

John (no connection with the vendor)

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JohnD wrote:



Squeaking  - check for free movement of both pistons.  If one is slow to come on, this will angle the disc and the pad.  And while copperslip is often recommended, the idea is that the grease component melts off or vapourises, leaving the copper as a lubricant.   Do you want melted grease on your discs?
Better to use something made for the job.  Here's an example, a special grease, plus some adhesive pads to go between pad and piston:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MINTEX-CERATEC-LUBRICANT-GREASE-AND-4-ADHESIVE-ANTI-SQUEAL-BRAKE-PAD-SHIMS-SHIM-/251292559571?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a823428d3#ht_697wt_1190

John (no connection with the vendor)


That red rubber grease was something that Bainzy (Rick) said to do.
But those anti-squeak things that are with the pads , do you need to fit those also ? and how ?  :o

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I had adhesive pads that came with my Mintex but I thought they didn't look very substantial so I used the ordinary metal anti squeak shims and so far no squeaks! The disks I haven't fitted were grooved and dimpled, not drilled. I can see that drilled would weaken the disk and be prone to cracking through the hole. Since becoming aware of them I've noticed all sorts of OEM cars have grooved and dimpled, mostly exotic stuff, Mercs, Porsche etc.

Oh and by the way Wim, your pics show far worse wear on one side of one of the disks than the other which I think indicates a sticking piston problemette.

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9077 wrote:
I had adhesive pads that came with my Mintex but I thought they didn't look very substantial so I used the ordinary metal anti squeak shims and so far no squeaks! The disks I haven't fitted were grooved and dimpled, not drilled. I can see that drilled would weaken the disk and be prone to cracking through the hole. Since becoming aware of them I've noticed all sorts of OEM cars have grooved and dimpled, mostly exotic stuff, Mercs, Porsche etc.

Oh and by the way Wim, your pics show far worse wear on one side of one of the disks than the other which I think indicates a sticking piston problemette.


:-/
Maybe best to put new pistons in then ?  :B  :(

They are still the original Girling seals ..
I've got a set laying around, but don't know in what condition the pistons are..

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9077 wrote:
Well, take them apart, clean them up, that may be all that's required.


Well yeah, don't know when i'm going to do this ..
Will be the end of next week and hoping the weather is good then  :o

At least i've learned to change the seals on a MG  :X , so i'm ready to do it on a Triumph (much better car )  :P

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Glad you got a bargain, Wimpus!  

Dimpled discs?
That is just taking the mickey, exploiting vulnerable youths who couldn't pass English GCSE, let alone Applied Car Maintenance.
No possible excuse even in exotic theory.
BUT, the dimples will look like holes as corrosion makes them black, so, Blingtastico!

And Ker-Ching, as the cash register ring out merrily!
Don't be misled.   The only thing better than a cast-iron brake disc is a cast iron vented disk, which work brilliantly if you habitually overheat brakes.

While a grooved disc may indicate a sticking piston, it's not a reason to scrap the disc, unless it's too thin at its thinnest (<8mm).
JOhn

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JohnD wrote:
Glad you got a bargain, Wimpus!  

Dimpled discs?
That is just taking the mickey, exploiting vulnerable youths who couldn't pass English GCSE, let alone Applied Car Maintenance.
No possible excuse even in exotic theory.
BUT, the dimples will look like holes as corrosion makes them black, so, Blingtastico!

And Ker-Ching, as the cash register ring out merrily!
Don't be misled.   The only thing better than a cast-iron brake disc is a cast iron vented disk, which work brilliantly if you habitually overheat brakes.

While a grooved disc may indicate a sticking piston, it's not a reason to scrap the disc, unless it's too thin at its thinnest (<8mm).
JOhn


I wanted other disc because of a wobbly pedal !
That was the first reason and noticed they where around 8mm thick, on the new ones it said 8,3mm min ..
Now the wobbly pedal is gone, but now i can push it deeper ...
But noticed today the brakes seems to get better & better, will see the next few days.
When i pushed the brakes not that hard it stopped like i normally should stop ..


Hopefully my friend can help me one evening to rebuild the calipers and bleeding (don't want to ask my sister it again, she has done it 2 or 3 times and said she was asking money now for every times she needs to push the pedal ! )  :P

Just the squeak is still there, sometimes hard and sometimes nothing..

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Today i sanded the edge of the pads 45°, my friend said it could help.
& adjusted the wheel bearings.
So did that and all was fine it seemed ..

Been to a friends house to work on his car, but needed to go after a part at my other friend nearby ..

My friend noticed while he was passenger in my car a strange noise coming from the right/front side  :o  :-/
So stopped at the side of the road to have a look..
Nothing out of place there, not odd movement or anything  :o

Drove on and was getting worse !
So i dropped him off at his house and went home carefully ..
Got the car up in the air (on my dark driveway ! , neighbours must think i'm mad ! )

Got the pads out and wheel bearing was ok, so it must be the pads or something..

Got the pads in and pumped the brakes, it seemed the pistons where not getting back very well  :-/
So got a piece of wood and 1 pad out, pumped the brakes and pushed the piston back in with pliers (did that 3 times with each piston).

Then i was time to have a drive !
So planned to go on a very dark road, where you can do a bit of speed ..
The roads to there i could still hear it a  very small bit .

Braked a few times from around 100kph to 50 kph and drove around some more.
Noticed that the brakes where getting better and no squealing or odd sounds !  ;D

But when i needed to stop at a stop light ... squealing !  :B

Oh well, will see how it goes.. New pistons are on order ;)

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Well got new pistons & seals in my calipers ..
Bleeded it twice now and noticed today i needed to pump twice to get a brake pedal like i did before i rebuilded them..  :o

Going to bleed them again tomorrow when i come from work with the car .

Getting annoyed about it , also because i drive her daily .  :B

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