Dannyb Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 I'm going to fit this to my 1500 Spit. So I can fit an electric fan switch in place of the sender unit.My problem is the thread is 5/8 UNF. Can't find a switch with that thread so thinking of a thread adaptor.Has anyone else done this and what adaptor and switch was used. I don't want to go down the route of drilling and cutting a new thread if I don't have to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted October 27, 2012 Share Posted October 27, 2012 Most modern radiator switches I've found have a 22 x 1.5mm thread. On both my cars I've had a boss or nut with the correct thread brazed onto the radiator's top tank. It's the sort of quick job that a radiator shop can do in five minutes if remove the radiator and bring it to them.There are lots of different on/off temperature thermo switches available. I found that my Herald preferred lower coolant temperatures than most modern cars, and chose a switch that activates the fan around 82C. I would also recommend installing a manual over ride switch so that you can turn on the fan if you think the car's getting too warm, an indicator switch so that you can see the fan switch on automatically, and a relay so that the thermo switch isn't handling the entire current draw of the fan. I can draw y ou a circuit diagram if you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted October 27, 2012 Author Share Posted October 27, 2012 Thanks Nick. I have since found a thread reducer 5/8 unf to M14 with a M14 threaded switch. which operates at 82c.The fan is already wired at the moment via on/of switch and relay. All I have to do now is fit it and then remove the mechanicle fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 I thought 82 deg was a little cool to start/activate the fan at the top hose ?This is how I mounted my fan temp sensor, tapped the thermostat housing to 3/8 bsp and used a sensor with a good temp range and short probe found the 1.0 lt 1989-92 US spec Daihatsu Charade 92-87degree (fan operates at 92 deg - switches off at 87deg) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 agree 82 is far too cool. should be 92 in the location you are using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted October 28, 2012 Author Share Posted October 28, 2012 That's what I want to hear ...someone that's already done the leg work. Thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 Okay. I just noted the temperature range at which my Herald seemed happiest, and selected a switch to cope. By 90 it's starting to smell hot and seems sluggish, and much above that, the fuel starts to vaporise. At open road speeds the fans don't switch on and the temperature stabilises around 80, and that's in an Australian summer.(As the heater tap has been bypassed, the occupants also seem to stabilise around 80. But that's another story). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted October 29, 2012 Share Posted October 29, 2012 My alloy water pump housing from Canleys had two threaded apertures; it's strange that while one took the original sender unit (which I presume is imperial) the other took a modern electric fan sensor with no trouble whatsoever... and I presume it's metric. No forcing or other interference, so I assume both threads must be so close they make no difference in so short a length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted October 31, 2012 Author Share Posted October 31, 2012 490 wrote:My alloy water pump housing from Canleys had two threaded apertures; it's strange that while one took the original sender unit (which I presume is imperial) the other took a modern electric fan sensor with no trouble whatsoever... and I presume it's metric. No forcing or other interference, so I assume both threads must be so close they make no difference in so short a length. What fan switch did you use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paudman Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 This one came from a kit by LMA Motorsport, part number CF306 / 30WC which includes a bottom hose fitting where the switch should sit; however it also fits the water pump housing as shown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Encom Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 490 wrote:My alloy water pump housing from Canleys had two threaded apertures; it's strange that while one took the original sender unit (which I presume is imperial) the other took a modern electric fan sensor with no trouble whatsoever... and I presume it's metric. No forcing or other interference, so I assume both threads must be so close they make no difference in so short a length. Awesome thread, going through this now with my Vitesse. Good useful stuff.I found a Tridon sender TF111 (http://www.tridon.com.au/Products/Product.aspx?SG=8&S=35&G=483&P=2014) that looks like it will do the same job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spittyholly Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 dont foget to fit relay and fuse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted January 9, 2013 Author Share Posted January 9, 2013 Still not done mine yet. Thinking of tapping the thermostat housing to 3/8 bsp but need to find a switch with the right temperature range with that thread before I start. Also while I'm at it I will fit the stainless steel under manifold pipe that I have had for 4 months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 I still wonder if electric fans are really necessary. I've just come home from a 400km day trip with my club, ambient temp 30 degrees C +.She went to just over half way on the gauge, when hill climbing, which is the hottest I've ever seen it go. I've go no reason to doubt the gauge.. Admittedly I've got a Canley's full width radiator.It's that hot here at the moment, the cat is sleeping on the (damp) shower tray. ;DTony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted January 12, 2013 Author Share Posted January 12, 2013 It's not just the cooling. I have never had overheating problems. But I was thinking by removing the mechanical fan it would save a little on petrol and also make the engine quieter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 Done it. Fitted the replacement thermostat housing which I tapped with a 3/8bsp thread. and fitted thermo switch part number ICP-EFS5270 92C - 87C . All wired via a relay with an override switchon the dash. Flushed system and replenished with Coma antifreeze. Removed the mechanical fan and started up. Temperature rose past the point where the mechanical fan used to keep the engine temperature which was halfway between 1/4 and normal. It went just past normal and the electric fan kicked in which pushed the temperature back to normal. If I operate the override switch it drops the temperature below normal.Only problem at the moment the heater has an airlock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Great work finding a switch part number, saved for reference if mine packs in.. :)Have you fed the switch relay via ignition or permanent 12v, if permanent the fan will work a few times after you switch off the engine as you may have already found out ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 via the ignition. Didn't want any surprises with my head and hands in the engine bay with the ignition off.I have left the viscose on the pump and will keep the old fan in the boot. Just in case the electric one packs up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted April 30, 2013 Author Share Posted April 30, 2013 I have since taken out the temperature censor switch as I found it was switching on a bit later than I wanted. I could not find a suitable 3/8 bsp switch with a slightly lower operating temperature. So I have fitted a Kenlow adjustable switch I had laying around. This has been adjusted so the engine temperature will not rise above normal and keeps it spot on in heavy traffic.I have fitted it in the thermostat housing with 3/8 bsp to 12mm compression. Because the censor bulb was 11mm I used gasket sealer with the O'ring to make sure it was watertight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DGGT6 Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 Hi Guys,If a 92 - 87 switch is about right for a fan switch in the thermostat housing, what temperature range would you use for a switch in the radiator BOTTOM hose?Thanks,Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Hi Danny, no probs with mine operating at 92* with a 50/50 antifreeze mix....suprised to here that bud...'Normal' or 'middle' on the guage is about 90*?You dont want a 'cool' engine as it wont run efficiently, what temp have you got the fan cutting in at?In the bottom hose its around 88-82 degree switch needed (IE fan kicks in at 88 and shuts off at 82) , somewhat lower temps and depends on the condition/size/material of the radiator too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 Not got ant temperature reading on the adjustable stat. But the temperature gauge when running with the mechanical fan showed just below middle (normal) and in heavy traffic would rise to normal but no higher. With the removed and the electric fan and switch it would still be just below normal while moving but in traffic it would rise to just under 3/4 before it kicked in and it would struggle to tick over until the temperature returned to normal. Also the fan kept running until the gauge got to below the normal mark.I was thinking about this and the thermostat opens at 82 C to let water flow from the radiator to cool the engine.What I will do is take the temperature with a themometer at normal and see what that reads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Ahh i see what you mean now, with no air movement around the rad/engine it will overheat, it has to unless you have a big super efficient alloy radiator so i manually switch the fan on in standing traffic before it happens just to waft air around under the bonnet, also i have an elec fuel pump and double skin heatshield over the exhaust so have no vapour lock issues when hot.Removing the mechanical fan has its downsides, if the Triumph viscous hub fan wasnt as problematic as they are that would be the perfect solution Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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