Float chamber probs./non-starting...

[Scimher]

My 1200 Herald conv. with the 1296 Dolomite engine - hence single SU, is refusing to start! The other day she was trailered down to my pro. pal who announced that she ran off a more powerful battery jump-start, ran for 45mins. & had been up & down the lane outside the unit. When I went to pick her up I started her & she then died & wouldn't start. He tapped the float chamber & she started & seemed fine. I took her 3miles & back to the supermarket & she never missed a beat. Friday, she started up then died. I took the top off the float chamber & thought the needle, or whatever, that controls the float was sticking. I sprayed WD40 through the fuel intake pipe & put it back together. Since then...nothing...have re-charged the battery & no attempt at firing. There's fuel in the chamber & when the fuel pipe was disconnected I cranked the starter & a 'gob' of fuel pumped through on maybe the second revolution. There is no fuel leak & I'm wondering if that means a breather, somewhere, is blocked?    

[Jonny-Jimbo]

It is possible that the jet is blocked. Remove it and blow it through with compressed air. You might also find it's worth cleaning the float chamber out, as I found the float chambers on my HS6's had a load of silt and rusty crud in them.

[Pete Lewis]

if it has a all plastic float have a careful look at the platform the float needle contacts these do wear a small groove /indentation and this causes the needle to jam,  ( but normally makes a flood rather than a lack off fuel)

if things have been disturbed then the classic rubber sliver syndrome is a frequent culprit, when refitting the fuel hoses the metal tube cuts a small slice off the inside on the hose  this floats about and ends up stuck in the back of the float needle ,  as said remove needle and check,  also get a squirt from the pump pipe into a jar to expel any floaters .

Pete

[Scimher]

...Thanks very much guys - so a sticking needle into the float chamber is enough to stop the little car firing on the starter...(First running problem in about 24k miles & since she was re-commissioned back in Autumn of 2008!) She's mounting a protest! Feels it is about time that she had some much needed TLC...

[Pete Lewis]

Then there is all the other car stoppers,
fuel pump , full of debris, supply line air leaks,  wrong pump and cam levers
fuel jellied in the jet supply tubes
ht leads in wrong firing order,  its 1342 anticlockwise on the dizzy cap
tight valve clearances

distributor duff rotor arms , worn bushes , some terrible  replacement condensers and caps and rotors

Check coils for green mouldy HT teminals

[Scimher]

...Thanks, Pete (I think!) for that frightening & distressing list. A fair few can be ruled out, fortunately! My pal towed her into the unit yesterday teatime & once he has finished fettling a '72 Merc. 280SE 3.5 V8 that will be carrying the bride at her wedding this Saturday, he'll (hopefully) restore her to reliable running order, once again...

[Scimher]

...For those who might be interested, the float chamber/fuel distribution was a complete red herring! Once my pal got his multimeter out he discovered a loose wire in the distributor - tightened up, the car started first turn of the key......Sorted in less than a minute!

The other day, in town, getting back into her the accelerator pedal went all loose. Nothing wrong in the footwell, but opening the bonnet showed that a 'knuckle' joint (ball & socket) had given way due to a split - they're plastic! There's 2, screwed onto a little threaded rod which forms a crucial part of the linkage. I pushed it on a few times but as soon as the throttle was activated it popped off again. Amazed they've lasted so long. Apparently the same as on the Stag - got a couple from Rimmers which hopefully, I'll fit tomorrow! The good thing is that I had been parked near a workshop & a kind chap from there gave me some wire which once used, not only got me home but survived a trip the next day, of more than 90miles!!!! Couldn't do these roadside repairs with most modern modes of transport...  

[RobPearce]

One of the failures I had on Spike was one of those plastic ball join cups. Fortunately I had a bit of copper wire (from a ring main cable) in the boot. That temporary repair lasted several months until I got around to fitting a new linkage.  I'm fairly sure Tessa's linkage uses metal cups (she's a bit older).

[Pete Lewis]

essential in a tool roll,,  bit of soft wire,, rubber bands and tyraps , string  etc     Ha !  

gets you or someone else  out of trouble

Pete

[Scimher]

...I've not yet got the new bits on - but, yes, you're right; I made sure to call on my pal & 'half-inch' three different sizes of cable-ties...She's a little 'off-song', at the moment. Died when I parked her up the other evening & instead of doing the sensible thing & trying to re-start her straightaway & then switching off, I left her until the next day - when she, point blank, refused to start. I left her where she was & then thought I'd try about 10mins. later.........& she fired straightaway. Since then I seem to have found myself using more revs. than usual, although she's ticked over in traffic in town.
...I haven't a clue about mechanics or electrics - which may be why I suspect the condenser! The distrib. was a new(ish) item that came off eBay a few years ago. It went under the radar & cost me all of a fiver.  

[daver clasper]

Hi

Had quite a few engine breakdown/rough running problems, perhaps about 1 a year, mainly condensers, but also rotor arms. They are mostly crap, and the first thing I change when having problems.

Cheers, Dave

[Scimher]

...Thanks, Dave - will look at that. The new distrib. was a 'pattern-part', I'm sure, but there had been a lot of 'play' in the old Lucas unit so it had to be changed. It certainly cured the 'flat spot' when revving in third. I'll get a distrib. ignition kit & see if that improves things...