67 Mk1 GT6 restoration

[EddieGT]

I used something like this

http://www.carbuilders.com.au/sound-deadener

[byakk0]

Thanks.
I've got hush mat brand in my doors. Similar stuff, but only slightly cheaper than the popular dynamat brand.

[byakk0]

Happy New Year everyone.

I'm still at it, just not a lot to report. Been working on my carbs as I can, I have managed a whole 2 days. So far all I've accomplished is replacing the O-rings in the adjustable jets. Still can't quite manage to get them tuned properly.

Last attempt I had them idling about 800, took it for a short drive, and afterward it was idling at 2k. Hmmmm.

I think I'm at a point where I'll get them just good enough for now and move on to other projects to complete this beast.

[byakk0]

Uggg. Carbs need more tuning. Took it for spin the other day and after it warmed up I couldn't close the choke fully or it would die on me. Still tried to anyway, ran terrible. Plus my driver's side (LH side ) caliper is making some terrible noise I need to investigate now.
You can throw out more carb advice if you wish, perhaps I've missed something, but they definitely need a through tuning.

In the mean time, here's a couple photo's for you. My daughter insisted on using her new tool set and decided my new tires need a nail in them. lol



Front end shot just because I think it look sweet from this low angle


And last but not least I'm nearing completion of the tunnel.

[efp]

Lovely job on the tunnel Hazen, but remind me, why so large the top hole?

And just recalling the old  mechanics saying, that 90% of carb problems are electrical...

Best
J

[JohnD]

Well may your little vandal have her hoodie up!

I introduce my grandsons to spanners, not hammer and nail!

[GT64fun]

Hazen

Not being able to run with the choke pushed in, suggests that the main throttle stops need adjusting. I am not familiar with The Mk1 carbs (my Mk2 has had 175 CD2s on since I bought back in 197 but I understand that there actually two shafts on the Mk1 with the rear one controlling the choke operation. (On my carbs the choke mechanism is activated a separate starter box on the front carb with a cam which actually opens the main throttles as well.)

Assuming the jets are adjusted to the rough starting point for tuning (about two turns down from level with the bridge) which should get you in the right ball park for mixture, I think I would be trying to lift the idle speed using the throttle stops whilst pushing the choke it. Someone else with direct experience of these carbs may be able to offer more help.

The other possibility is a manifold air leak and a bit of detective work with a tube in your ear, might be able to confirm this as a possible culprit.

Hope this helps.

Ian F

[byakk0]

Thanks Ian, I've done that actually. I had them nearly dialed in then replaced the O-rings on the jet assembly and put myself back to ground zero. Now it's matter of doing it again. I've got a few people in my circle that are quite knowledgeable, thank goodness. I'll get it there. Eventually.

John, her set of tools has a wrench too. And a saw. Moments after this she was cutting my wheel-well. lol. Next time I'll steer her a little more correctly.

But how about this one from a few weeks ago? (Maybe she changed my settings!)

[byakk0]

Misplacement. I shouldn't have cut the hole before I shaped it. I was too far in to make a new panel when I realized, so I just cut it larger. I may patch it up, but don't think it will be necessary. But I probably will put a rubber gasket across the opening.

Quoted from efp

Lovely job on the tunnel Hazen, but remind me, why so large the top hole?

And just recalling the old  mechanics saying, that 90% of carb problems are electrical...

Best
J

[nang]

I'll get my coat ready.......What you need is some S.U.'s (eek)(eek)
Tony.

[byakk0]

Figured out what the noise was om my LHS front wheel. Dust shield was warped and rubbing. Easy fix.

Also a little more info on my carbs. I've made so many adjustments I figured the best place to start was back to basics.
Discovered 2 things While doing this.
1, The fuel leak on my rear carb is coming from the choke on the side, not out the jet on the bottom.

[byakk0]

Update on the trans cover. 

Trimmed the excess from the flanges and cleaned it up.

I cut a hole for access, drilled and tapped some flat bar, and affixed the cover back on with hex head screws.

Test fitting. Plenty of room to get at the slave and backside of the starter.

I then trimmed the front section to make access to the propshaft and rear of the transmission easy.

 

[byakk0]

Wow, I'm not sure I like the new forum format. My images are distorted, the editor is a little weird, the 'last page' links are broken...

[efp]

It’s in our nature as (mostly) grumpy old men to complain and be wary of change, and here I fear we have grounds. But I’m sure the wonderfully talented and hardworking gurus behind the cogs and pistons of this new site are aware of its less than wholehearted reception and are working feverishly to improve it. We must be patient, and appreciative of the herculanian effort that has gone into the long overdue overhaul of it. When fixed I’m sure it will be a huge improvement on the old one. 

[byakk0]

I'm ok with change. It's just when change intended to improve something fails that bugs me. I get that at work all the time... Something gets worse in the name of progress.

I'll just kick back and wait for the bugs to get worked out as I figure out best practices for the new format.

[byakk0]

I'm ok with change. It's just when change intended to improve something fails that bugs me. I get that at work all the time... Something gets worse in the name of progress.

I'll just kick back and wait for the bugs to get worked out as I figure out best practices for the new format.

[byakk0]

I accidentally dropped a small vice in my garage about a year ago. Unfortunately my bonnet was between it and the ground. The bonnet sustained very minor damage (my ego on the other hand...) but the vice came through the ordeal nicely.

I set about repairing the damage this week.

Due to the wheel well being in the way there is zero access for a dolly.

My first attempt was to weld a stud and use a slide hammer. The stud I used was a 5/8" bolt with the head ground down to a point, so the threads could engage the hammer coupling.

 

I thought this worked--until I cut off the stud and realized I welded around the divot instead of into the bottom. So....I could just grind out all the weld and try again.

Nah...I just filled the sucker full of weld and dressed it.

After I dressed I still had low spots, so I filled those and dressed again.

I was using a very coarse rasp, flat on one side and curved on the other. It fit the contours very nicely, and results..well, judge for yourself :)

[booley]

very nice!

[byakk0]

completed the tunnel cover.

 

[byakk0]

I shoulda snapped a shot of the H-support before I started as it shows my original attempt of upholstery. It amounted to cheap black automotive carpet, the kind that looks good for a few minutes, but balls up when you touch it.

But, anyway I've got plans to bring the look of the dash down the face of the H-support. I started in on that these past two days. 
I'm going to need to build a radio support box that bolts to the H-frame, so now is as good a time as any to get it all mocked up.

I stripped away all the carpet, old foam and contact cement. The one side is narrower than the other. Is this a normal trait for these?


I bought a piece of really nice, void free 3/8" birch plywood (to be veneered with walnut), but I only have enough to do it once so I don't want to use it for mock-up. I have a lot of scrap 1/8" hardboard, so I glued some together to get the right thickness.


I've got the pieces held on by screws from the backside.


A rough idea


I need a radio face-plate, so I did some metal bashing.





Needs little more metal finishing and paint.

 

[byakk0]

Been up to a lot of little things lately, just haven't updated here.

This was early June.

Waiting on some more tools so I can finish beating the tar out of the last few remaining dents and get them running for the hills.

I decided my previous faceplate was a good start, but I couldn't get the OEM style out of my head, primarily how I would go about shaping it out of a single piece of metal. (I know, I could buy one...but where is the fun in that!)

OEM face plate, for reference.

Initial recess

After some bends and shrinking in the corners (no cut and weld on this one)

Forming the rolled edge.

and the final masterpiece, covered in vinyl. It's a bit wrinkly in places, I may paint in hammerite if I don't end up leaving the character of it alone.

And then carrying on with the dressing up of the radio surround,
I picked up some stainless trim. I think it's edging of some sort, similar to that aluminum cap you see on formica. It only has about 1/8" gap, so it needed some persuasion.

A lot of effort later I had it close enough

And this is the idea of where it's gonna go. Still not sure if it will work or not, but there you go.

That's it for this update. I'll park the rest of it in another post.

[byakk0]

re-covered my severely rusted parcel shelf brackets.

fortunately the foam is still pliable and reuseable. They came off easily with a little heat.

Welded a bottom to a pipe and made a nice container for de-rusting. 1/2 a gallon of vinegar and the brackets + hardware.

after 3 days of soaking and cleaning.

after wire brushing.

primed and painted

hardware

stuck together with contact cement

finished product

Installed the driver's side bracket and then made a mock up of a parcel tray.
I could go the route of a new one as I've never had them, but I'll need to customize it so I can install my new 10 circuit box.

[byakk0]

I've got other minor things I've done, but I'll roll with the fusebox/glovebox theme for now for the sake of continuity in reading.

- - - - - -

I get an idea stuck in my head and sometimes I just have to roll with, whether to get it out of my system or to just prove to myself that I can do it. Anyway, here it is. Not quite complete, but for the sake of the argument so far it fits.

I used 1/8" ABS. I had to make some stand-offs, or feet, for the new fusebox to mount to so I started with a test subject just to make sure my idea for forming them would work.

I'm sure I posted about modifying my fuse box from one circuit to three some time ago.

I transfered the paper pattern to the ABS and trimmed it out.

Clamped it on both sides and slowly heated the bend with a heat gun.

mounted the die for forming the standoff. I had to drill a hole in the center to get it properly clamped. Not a problem though, no one will ever see the hole when it's installed in the car.

Drilled and fit the fusebox. Yes, it's upside down--at least according to the numbers. The manufacturer didn't have me in mind when they printed the numbers. At least the electricity isn't bothered by it. I may figure out some stickers for each circuit.

And the backside. I made a slight error when forming one of the standoffs but managed to recover. Again, no one will see it.

One more side bent.

bends completed.

test fitting. I marked the location of where the sides moved to.

Trimmed it according to the marks I just made and welded the bits together. (soldering iron and a thin strip of ABS as filler. Kinda like TIG welding)

Another test fit, with the fusebox, just to be sure after my welding job it still fits. Which it does.

I still need to build an access panel so anything I may put in here won't contact the fusebox or terminals. I picked up this door and fuses from a wrecking yard for a steal. I'm still mulling over how to make it work, so that story will come in a later post.

[byakk0]

Finished up the door.

I snagged the door from a Celica in the junkyard. It's a little small but I made it work.I rough-cut a new panel and matched the hole.

but first things first. I need to make the door latch into place. The Celica had a slight recess formed into the plastic, and at first I thought I would need to do the same. But, then I realized that would just be a lot of unnecessary and unseen work. So, I just cut the basic access opening in a second piece of plastic. There are two hooks on the bottom of the door, and two springs at the so it it can snap into place. With the height of the opening correct, it snaps right into place in my test piece.
That'll work.

now to fit the latching panel and cut the final piece, but first I realized I needed some way to fasten this piece in place without gluing it, so I got some 3/4x3/4 plastic I can glue to ABS and cut them to length. It took some trial and error to get them to fit such the door would fit flush, but I eventually got it.

Screwed in place so as to be removeable--being removeable also aids in connecting the wires,

I then matched the full sized door to the opening and glued it permanently to the Celica door. It snaps right into place.

With the face plate removable I was able to wire it up. The lower three wires needed small extensions.

And the final product.

Good news is, the fusebox works.
Bad news is, I have no plans to make another box or modify another fusebox. This took a lot of time to backyard engineer and I don't really want to do another. I may make a passenger side, or I may just order a new one and save myself the hassle of guessing as I don't have one to copy.

[BiTurbo228]

Nice work :) what a neat little final product, but I can see from the pictures just how much fiddling it must have taken.