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Spitfire IV body mounts


Matt306

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A Little bit of rebuild  advice;

As with most things whice are made but Triumph the rot has got to my Spit and a RBRR race is on to replace the must repair parts.

One of these is the Drivers door so as I dont have the Flintstone affect floor.

The sills need doing too , not least as i can see central strengthener has been cut horizontally to and a new sill welded over the top.

The area around mount over the front outrigger is shot too. I know the car is meant have a mount there, but not sure how is attached to the car/chassis.

Is the mount welded to the floor or to outrigger... etc etc. A couple of pics would be appreciated Thank you!

https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-spitfire-mkiv/1500-front-floor/ Part 612528

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Nick Thank you so very much that is what I need. I have a feeling mine is missing...

I have the hard top on and the door braced open, i have left the door on to check for gaps. I am thinking of taking the outer sill off . The floor is mostly cut out, the bit at the front i take it the new floor goes under the bulk head front panel?

Any more pics would be brilliant, I am doing it with the bod on... I didnt think there was much rust... how wrong...

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In my experience, repro mounts there and repro floor pans are a very bad fit, not sure which is the culprit, but be prepared for some surgery.
It’s important tho to get the location exactly right. As I understand it the two bolts securing the tub to the chassis on the outrigger here are the only ones without any float and are key datum point to body alignment. All other mounting points have some adjustability built in, these don’t.  Which is a bugger as those front outriggers and  the footwell floor are particularly liable to tin-worm.

Just my understanding

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Oddly enough both our Spit and our GT6 were sound in those areas which was more than could be said of floor or A pillars.

Body on chassis is the right way to do it - initially at least.  We actually refitted body to chassis for both ours (having been removed by misguided POs) before doing the structural work.  The Spit still needed manipulating and splinting to put it's broken bones back in alignment.  The GT6 in some areas needed bones breaking for realignment......  In both cases the body was then taken off for final welding in a more favourable orientation followed by a good scrape and paint.

Get everything positioned and firmly tacked using the chassis out rigger as a datum.  Watch the height and angle of the A pillar though as they can, and do, sag.

Nick

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Quoted from Nick Jones
Oddly enough both our Spit and our GT6 were sound in those areas which was more than could be said of floor or A pillars.

Body on chassis is the right way to do it - initially at least.  We actually refitted body to chassis for both ours (having been removed by misguided POs) before doing the structural work.  The Spit still needed manipulating and splinting to put it's broken bones back in alignment.  The GT6 in some areas needed bones breaking for realignment......  In both cases the body was then taken off for final welding in a more favourable orientation followed by a good scrape and paint.

Get everything positioned and firmly tacked using the chassis out rigger as a datum.  Watch the height and angle of the A pillar though as they can, and do, sag.

Nick


Nick ,as ever, thanks for the advice.
I have hard top attached for a bit more rigidity.

The front lip of floor does it extend under the front bulk head.

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well the lower A post is out ! the floor most of it is cut out and the inner sill had to come off the a post to repair the a post.

the nice door brace which I brought to wedge the space open then promptly loosened meaning my gap is too large.  I presume I need to ratchet the opening back together tack it and try the door.
the bar I got does allow for the door to be registered though.

I was in a bit of a dilemma as there ws so much rot around the a post.

I should have welded a bar across.

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