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Fitting Oil Cooler


Dannyb

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I'm about to fit my oil cooler to my 1500. It has a built in thermostat to the sandwich plate. Am I right in thinking that oil will trickle feed around the cooler before the oil gets to the tempereature when the valve opens.
The reason is if it don't, then after fitting it will not fill with oil until it gets hot and then will need topping up.

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Cant give a 100% answer but normally a thermostat is open or closed. So your correct in saying that the rad wouldnt get any oil into it untill the thermostat go's into the open position. Are you able to prime the oil cooler before you do the final fit so that it has oil in it already?

Be interesting to know as this is a job I will be doing later this year

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If I understood the design correctly when I put my cooler in there is a small amount of oil being fed into the cooler even when the thermostat is closed. I also noticed that my engine stays cooler than usual in cold weather which would be the case if a small amount is always going through.

When I fitted my cooler I attached one hose to the plate (already mounted to the engine, filled the cooler using a small funnel through the other hose until oil started to come back through the hoses (use a flashlight to see before it goes to high, less of a mess...). That meant the amount of oil still to go into the cooler was minimal when doing the first test drive.

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First off, mount the cooler with the inlet/outlet facing upwards, keeping the oil in the cooler when the engine isnt running. If they are facing downwards there is a chance of the cooler draining back to the sump when engine is not running.

The thermo plate has got a small flow past the stat and out to the cooler thus circulating oil at a low flow through the cooler when cold so no you dont need to top up after its got hot (thermostat opens fully at 80deg i think).
Fit the cooler/pipes/thermo plate empty, fill the sump as normal on an oil change, pull the coil HT lead off so the engine wont fire and crank the engine over for 20-30 secs or so so the oil filter and cooler have oil in them, dip the oil and add approx 0.5lt more oil , refit the HT lead and run for 30 secs on tick over. Leave a min or so and re check the oil level, as long as no leaks you will be good to go.

On an oil change afterwards, the cooler is full of dirty oil ( a 13 row cooler and pipes is approx 0.5lt) so not essential but if you dont want a small amount of dirty oil in your new oil you will need to remove the cooler/pipes and drain the dirty oil out as it wont drain into the sump unless the cooler inlet/outlet is on the bottom of the cooler and is mounted higher than the thermo plate.

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When I fitted mine I had removed the sump for cleaning.
I simply added an extra half a litre of oil to what the book said was the required amount.
Going by the dip stick not much oil drains back if you do as "uk" sayes,mount the oil rad "pipes up"
I have a 1500 in a herald and the pipes that come off the sandwich plate are a very tight fit,mine almost touch the chassis lip and the engine mount. I only had a millimetre or two.
I have now "cut the corner" off the engine mount to give clearance so when the engine "rocks"on it's mounts nothing touches.
Before I cut the mounts corner off

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For what its worth some pics of my cooler install on my blog -I have a separate thermostat cus I'm tight and it was in the shed from a previous install on a 2000 I had! link here- http://shedtune.blogspot.co.uk/2012/06/some-progresssort-of.html scroll down a bit for the pics  I managed to get decent clearance past the engine mount using off the shelf dog leg fittings

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