Oggi Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 The clutch on my 1200 is seriously heavy and is right at the bottom of the pedal travel, could this be the master or the slave or is it a gearbox out again job and new clutch? When I put the new engine in the clutch plate had plenty of meat on it but it is just so heavy to use. the system has been bled but I have to shove the pedal into the carpet to get it to engage otherwise it grinds the gears and that is just moving it about from the drive to the garage so there is no way I could use it as is even if I get it through an MOT.Your thoughts as always much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Hammond Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 1200's have a very light clutch from new with no abnormalities which is one reason why they were popular with driving schools in the 1960's. Having a very low biting point could be a hydraulic issue but as the clutch is heavy too, I doubt it. I'd check the slave and master cylinder first but my hunch is it will be a gearbox out job unfortunately.....Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Any possibility that the clutch plate is around the wrong way?It sounds like a gearbox out problem anyway unfortunately.Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 The low disengagement could be due to things that can be checked from the outside such as master and slave cylinder function and the pivot pin in the clutch lever.There is no guarantee that the parts that have been used as replacements in these old cars are of original design and some pressure plates listed as replacements at spare parts places are actually made for other cars and can be very heavy when used in our cars, assuming your car still has the multiple spring type.Master cylinder and slave should be checked to see that they are of original specification and the pin and hole in the top of the clutch pedal lever should be checked for wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oggi Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 Thanks guys for the quick responses, I will double check the hydraulics before pulling the box. How easy is it to pull the box from inside the car? obviousley the passenger seat will have to come out but is it a pig to do and I would be better off pulling the engine and box out as I have done previousley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Gearbox into the footwell is very easy on a Herald, clutch swap at the side of the road in under 2 hours when I was younger.Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oggi Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 Cheers Bill, I bet it will take me a little longer than 2 hours even in the comfort of the garage never mind the side of the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Clutch change is 3.80 hours according to the Triumph Repair Time Schedule. But many of those times are generous in favour of the dealer.C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Hammond Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 In my heyday I had a Herald clutch change down to a little over an hour. Probably take me a weekend now!M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aar0sc Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 1218 wrote:In my heyday I had a Herald clutch change down to a little over an hour. Probably take me a weekend now!M.I could probably do my Spitfire's in an hour and a half. Biggest time waster is getting the interior in and out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simoneg Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 As others have suggested in previous posts to this forum, possible causes include:1) Replacement clutch plate slightly thicker, or pressure plate slightly thinner, than original equipment2) Clutch slave cylinder not sitting far enough into the bell housing (some after-market replacements have the locating groove in the wrong place - it is not uncommon to have to file/grind the groove a bit to make is sit further into the bell housing).3) clutch pivot pin worn4) clutch pivot pin fallen out and replaced with a loosely fitting bolt!5) clutch hydraulics need bleeding and/or renovating. Definitely worth checking the pivot pin is in place and has not become loose, perhaps because of wear in the bushes or loss of the infamous crinkly tube that is supposed to hold it in place. Easily done without taking the gearbox out. Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 add a seized pedal pivot bushes , this stops the Mcyl returning and recuperation fails making bleeding hopeless.sure you dont have a mixed coil cover throw out with a diaphragm cover .Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oggi Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 Thanks guys. Even more useful information to look into. My good lady has had me busy on jobs outside the house on my week off but with rain forecast for tomorrow I may get to steal a day to play in the garage. Decorating the bathroom as already hinted at is a big no no :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oggi Posted May 3, 2012 Author Share Posted May 3, 2012 Update on this, I have spent the last few evenings pulling out the box cleaning everything replacing the 3 part clutch, I even made up a centralising tool from a scrap gearbox I had lying around.I am still at the same place as before I started just a little poorer and everything is a lot cleaner. I also replaced the slave cylinder. The pivot pin is good with no play. With the bleed open the master operates nice and smoothly but I will replace the seals in a hope it may be that but apart from that I am at a loss. I used DOT4 is that OK I cant see how it would make a difference from 3 but please tell me if I am wrong.Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Dot4 is fine PeteQues what is the dia on your master cyl bore , ( this often cast in the outside of the body)has it always been heavy or has this condition crept up on you ??Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oggi Posted May 5, 2012 Author Share Posted May 5, 2012 On looking yesterday with fresh eyes, the bolt holding the slave wasnt quite tight enough so had allowed it to slip back. I have reset this nice and tight in the right position and the clutch is liveable with but still not right.When we got the car my father inlaw drove it back and he recons the clutch was nice and light but that was 4 years ago and it has since been stuck on due to no use, freed off and a new clutch just fitted. I will change the master just in case but once its on the road it may improve over time. But my next question will cause further delays in getting an MOT see new thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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