blueH Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 My Bulkhead now painted so am just about to re fit my Brake & Clutch Master Cylinders on my 1200 Herald, first need to replace the bolts that hold the Brake & Clutch Master brackets to the bulkhead, can somebody advise the correct thread size for me also if different the thread size for bolts that holds pedal boxes in place.ThanksNorm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 Should all be 5/16" UNF. Fit the cylinders to the brackets first, then the brackets to the bulkhead. Makes the whole job a lot easier,Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueH Posted August 21, 2007 Author Share Posted August 21, 2007 Many thanks for the help Bill, that was my plan also, having spent so much time taking bits of the bulkhead it's real pleasure to start putting things back,,,, just got the wiper motor re fitted and to my great relief put some power to the motor and it works, had a worry it might have failed cos it's been off the car for sometime whilst bulkhead repaired & painted.Norm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordleonusa Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 Make sure to use the bracket with the strengthening piece on the brake cylinder.L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 Brake & Clutch Master Brackets to the Bulkhead 1/4'' UNFBrake & Clutch Master Cylinders to Brackets 5/16'' UNFSorry Bill ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted August 21, 2007 Share Posted August 21, 2007 I'm evidently slipping! I must make more effort to get my hands dirty and refresh my memory,Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herald948 Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 Don't feel too badly, Bill; I would've said the same thing as you did...and been wrong. And I really should know better, having just removed those same bits from a GT6 bulkhead. Odd thing, this particular GT6. The shell is going to go away in favor of a convertible (Spitfire, of course) tub, but that's only because a: I have the Spitfire tub, and b: the GT6 tub was rusted in the oddest places, and it just didn't seem worth saving. One of the really significant areas of rust was the bulkhead area, so much so that my son and I had to drill out most of the bolts holding cylinders and pedal brackets on! The heads of most of the bolts had deteriorated quite badly, although the threaded portions generally were ok, as were the brackets. Go figure!But the whole GT6 shell is odd like that. Bulkhead areas are very rusty. Boot floor is virtually gone. Lots of rust down below the A post and just behind front wheels in the sill area. Doors surprisingly rotted. Main floor pans? Mostly quite good! Most other outer sheet metal? Fine, except for dents. Plus, the body came off the chassis with only one mount bolt (RF outrigger) being a problem, and bits of the chassis have been removed with no drama (i.e., seized bolts in bushings, etc.)But I digress. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 Keep the roof; they don't make them anymore.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herald948 Posted August 22, 2007 Share Posted August 22, 2007 Richard_B wrote:Keep the roof; they don't make them anymore..........I assume you're referring to the GT6, right? Absolutely! To be honest, I seldom throw anything away. period. :) But the roof is one of the very, very good things on this tub, so it will sit around somewhere (along with the equally good GT6 "mk1" roof on an even more rotten tub) until I find someone interested in same. That goes also for the three or four rear hatches I have for GT6s.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Just to add a thought , to improve the clutch operation on our Vit6 (after elliminating the clevis hole wear and tear) we slotted/elongated the holes for bracket to baulhead bolts( 1/4 unf) as it brings the pedal height up to a better start position, just dont elliminate the play needed at the Mcyl. pushrod.. peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueH Posted August 23, 2007 Author Share Posted August 23, 2007 Can I ask another question about the Clutch & Brake pedals, these were removed a while ago to allow Bulkhead painting, have now returned then onto the bulkhead and notice that one of the pedals has a strong spring to allow the pedal to spring back I am right in assuming this is the Clutch Pedal Box, the other has a much smaller spring so I'm thinking this is for the brake, my apologies if this is really dumb question but I hope someone wil take pity on me & provide an answer and I have'nt got any other Heralds to check against. Norm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted August 23, 2007 Share Posted August 23, 2007 Hi Norm,Both pedals should have return springs of the same type. These springs often break, leaving the internal master cylinder spring to do all the work, leading to fatigue failure of the internal spring.There's no problem getting original pattern springs, I would replace both if there is any sign of aging,Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueH Posted August 24, 2007 Author Share Posted August 24, 2007 Thanks Bill, both seem to work fine, I have'nt connected either pedal up to the relevant Master Cylinder so I can pressed both pedals down to check spring strength and they feel O.K, it's was just that 1 spring is substantially stronger than the other, very strange.Norm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueH Posted August 28, 2007 Author Share Posted August 28, 2007 lordleonusa wrote:Make sure to use the bracket with the strengthening piece on the brake cylinder.LI did'nt understand this comment previous but having just been given a spare Master Cylinder Bracket I do now, my original brackets don't have a strenghening bar across the gap, my 1200 is circa 1963 was this a Mod that was implemented on later Heralds and do you think I should try a get both brackets with the strengenthing bar, what is the problem with the old type brackets.Norm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted August 28, 2007 Share Posted August 28, 2007 I've never encountered a failed bracket, but there was evidently a perceived weakness, so the reinforced bracket was introduced. The upgrade with the cross brace was only applied to the brake pedal, which is subject to considerably higher loads. There's no harm in using the reinforced bracket in both locations, but it's really not necessary. All of my original early Heralds have run with the un-strengthened bracket in both locations without problems,Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herald948 Posted August 28, 2007 Share Posted August 28, 2007 Just a crazy guess, but could the strengthened bracket have been introduced either for front disc brake-equipped cars and/or for dual-circuit master cylinders? That, of course, means that it might well date back to the first Vitesse 1600s and Spitfires.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted August 28, 2007 Share Posted August 28, 2007 I wonder whether the concern was bracket failure 'in extremis'. ie someone literally standing on the brakes in an emergancy. :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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