Nick Jones Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 That's the ones John. Thanks for that tip Laurence.These wheel-bearings are readily available from random ebay sellers and have proved to be fine. The only one I've ever had an issue with was Timken - on my own car.Sandgroper (WA Resident acc. to Wikipedia!), the shimming mod mentioned on my old website ref. the original Ford based conversion make shimming harder not easier. http://www.shadetreegarage.co.uk/vitds2.htm Instead, by putting the shimming between the bearings, it performs the far more important task of stiffening-up the hub/bearing assembly so it can survive without the plain land on the OE axle shaft under the inner bearing. This land is also present on the 1500 FWD CV used on the Canleys conversion. If you use a CV with no supporting land and leave the shims outside the bearing assembly - bad things happen. At least two people have been kind enough to prove this by trying it!http://www.shadetreegarage.co.uk/vitds2.htmNick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 Thanks!Several things to do to SofS for the new season.First, get my Little Devil space heater repaired. Machine Mart, usually so good with spares, is being very coy this time, with trying to find a replacement thermocouple. I'll persevere.Then, get MegaJolt working!John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 10, 2018 Share Posted January 10, 2018 This was the wheelbearing link I meant to post earlier. CDK661, Continental brand IIRC.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lot.....08EX25AIzsySWZcUAeAworhttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW.....6:g:YnoAAOSwGllaVfL9Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandgroper Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 Thanks for that info Nick. The knowledge base grows.Didn't realise that I had a Wiki page! I returned from WA in 1974 !!!!!!! My 'name' refers to a grub that lives in the sand - resulting in the WA residents being called 'sandgropers'. Queenslanders were 'banana-benders', South Australians were 'crow-eaters' after the shrike bird on their flag!This practise seems to have died out now tbh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandgroper Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Hi Folks!Just checking, is regarding suitability of Volvo shafts for lobros. The 340 on a 1.4 or 1.7 petrol is clear. Which of the others on that 340-360 model range are useable, and does it matter if it is driver side or passenger side?Pardon my ignorance!!! The part that I have located is proving difficult to extract, so I am renewing my search via email.Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Basically all 340 models. 1.6, 1.7 or 1.6D (not sold in UK AFAIK). Manual or variomatic. Each car has two identical driveshafts each of which has 2 identical CV joints. 1 shaft is enough to convert a Triumph.Note that the 360, 2.0 models have different CVs and are not suitable. Externally they look the same and do in fact interchange between 340 and 360 but the spline between CV and shaft is different so the 360 CVs do not fit on the Rover shaft used for the conversion.According to parts books the inner CVs used on Mk1 Fiesta 1300 sport and XR2 would also work - but I've never managed to get my hands on any to check.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandgroper Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Many thanks for that Nick. On the car I had located the 'scrappy' was going to strip them for me. He says that the Allen screw inners had been badly worn and they couldn't release. He is going to have another go, maybe on the other shaft. The weather isn't conducive to messing about too much I suspect!So frustrating! I wish that I could have a go myself and, if needs must, I will when its warmer. Until then I will ring around other scrappies. There must be one out there!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 I've done a good few...... they can be awkward as they are tight. You need to start with an unworn decent fitting 6mm allen key bit and dig all the accumulated gunge out of the socket first so the key goes all the way in. If the head is damaged already then there is a torx spline size that can be bashed in and usually gets them moving. If they are not asking big money then might be worth having both sides as they are really not very easy to find now.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandgroper Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Looking at an internet copy of the Volvo manual it looks as if the spline that goes into the diff is a usual push/pull fit with a circlip. Is that right or do you have to undo the Allen bolts to get them off the car? Once its on the bench there are ways and means but in a car (on top of another car) it is awkward and dangerous. I'm not sure that the scrappy has done many of them tbh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandgroper Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Come to think of it he is going to try the other shaft anyway and if that doesn't work, as a last resort, he could cut the shafts and let me have the two outer joints. Its not mega money!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 IIRC the gearbox output shaft flanges are bolted in with a single bolt in the centre - accessible only after the CV is off. My original conversion used a pair of these flanges with the shafts machined off, welded to the Triumph flanges. Still on the car to this day so I guess my welding was up to scratch!Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
69vitesse Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 How much would a pair of lobro to triumph flange adapters be, Or are the drawings available to machine your own? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 The last batch came out at about £ 90 a pair. I had 20 pairs made that time though and I think it'll take a long while to shift that many now.I have mailed the machine shop (a week ago now) for prices and must twist his tail. Thanks for the reminder!Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandgroper Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 Hi, Apologies in advance for a silly question : are MGF and Rover 100 hub flanges interchangeable? The new price these days is £45 each. A bit steep if the Rover 100 ones will fit. Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 They are the same part. MGF uses the same on all 4 corners, R100 only on the front. £ 45 for a new flange is a good price.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
69vitesse Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 MGF hubs are a glut on the market. Most scrapers will give them away at £10 a corner - and you get 4 meaty studs too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandgroper Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 I am still awaiting my scrappy to extract the driveshaft from the Volvo but is alongside the Rover 100 that has donated one of the two required. I will negotiate for two Rover hub flanges when I next visit!An attack with a wire brush should make them look like new with any luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandgroper Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 I throw myself onto your mercy again! I have visited my scrappy and am within touching distance of securing my Volvo driveshaft! Just a few bits of information needed, if anyone can help.Volvo Axle removalAfter spending a jolly couple of hours under the rear of a Volvo 340, playing with reluctant hex screws.I have managed to loosen them all but had a crisis of conscience because, never having seen a CV joint dismantled, I’m not sure just where the parts that I need part with the gearbox and hub. I will return to the scrappy later in the week to finish the job. My worry was that I might just despatch the innards of the joints onto the floor!Any advice would be most welcome. As I see it my problems are as follows:Inner Volvo JointThe hex bolts are all loose now – do I just take them out or are there other fastenings that need to be released? How do I release the shaft from the gearbox? The side of the gearbox is loosened as well, just in case I need to take it off.Outer Volvo JointThe Hex bolts are all loosened but seem to fasten the joint a heavy looking inner part of the hub. Is that part of the joint itself?How do I release the shaft from the hub? Do I need to undo anything else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Undo the 6 female hex bolts at each end and remove. That is all. The gearbox output shaft flange is left in place as is the flange on the outer driveshaft/stub axle.You will see black grease and the innards of the CV. If you really work at it it is possible for the joint to fall apart, but pretty unlikely with the gaiter still in place as it tends to keep everything centred. Worth taking some plastic bags (or nitrile gloves will just about stretch) to protect the ends from grit and debris though I'd recommend full dismantling, cleaning and reassembly with fresh grease in any case.NickThis is what the CV looks like removed from the car and shaft as well, after a wash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 I have no idea why the pic is shown twice....... only uploaded once.!N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Quoted from timbancroft61 A friend of mine recently bought a kit from Jigsaw and then got JY Classics to build into his mk2 hubs, think the bill came to about £1k. Ouch my Subaru diff conversion including cv and machining of GT6 vertical links is nowhere near that cost even with a new diff ? Expensive ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandgroper Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Thanks for that invaluable info Nick. It is as I was hoping, but I guess I panicked!!!! Just got to barter for the hubs, and strip them I suspect. This place is a real scrap yard rather than a dismantler. Still I know just how much they cost so its just simple maths. The joints feel tight with no play so should be OK. If anyone in the Cheshire are needs a Volvo shaft, there is another one available. PM me for the address etc.All in all a satisfying day - Hex bolts defeated and another sortie into a scrap yard. It must be 60yrs since I enjoyed that experience!!!!!!So, onward and upward!!!Thanks again for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandgroper Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 Am I missing something or are there no oil seals on the MGF bearings? I don't have the bearings yet, just curious! Bought new hub flanges (£44 ea) and have to re-stud them to fit the Triumph wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 The MGF bearing is a sealed pack with a pair of taper roller bearings in a single housing and includes its own seals.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandgroper Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 Ta! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpeg.b15b81ef10abeea1c3039ae03c4a9f3a.jpeg)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.