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Rotoflex to CV conversion help


chunky63

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Well worth the money in my opinion, JY Classics installed the Canely version on my car a few years ago and i'm more than pleased with it!

As Nick says Canleys are no longer doing them so from Rimmer Bros may be the last few sets and the best way to get them while they still have some, I'd double check they are the Canley ones but i reckon they are as they seem to have copy and pasted the text from the Canley site across.

p.s I do not work for Canley or Rimmer Bros 🙂

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Hi, I have just joined the club and have started to prepare a CV conversion for my roto GT6. I have a couple of questions that some of you old hands might be kind enough to answer. I have the basic idea, but no hands on dealing with the parts as yet.

I am following the Rover100/Volvo 340 route, along with the MGF bearing conversion. This has already travelled by many I guess.

I would like to prepare my bits on the bench and am looking for usable vertical links at, leaving my roto in situ.

However, if a spare set of links cannot be found and I machine my only set, could they still be used with the roto set up, should any future owner need the 'originality'. From the pieces of info I have read it would seem that the Rover hub shaft fits the old bearing set up (shims etc) so does the MGF bearing take the old shaft?

Finally, some pics show the inner CV fitted with low profile boots, presumably to avoid chassis friction. Are these the Porsche 930 type sold by Demon Tweeks?

Apologies for the diatribe!!!

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No doubt Mr Jones will be along any moment, but to try and aid your understanding I have included a brief description of the components and methods of assembly that I wrote out for a friend who was considering this route.

I have the conversion on my GT6 Mk2 and generally consider it to be a good modification, having suffered all the usual Rotaflex ills over the years, including corrosion of the damper mount and bearing issues. Source the best outer CV and inner Lobro components that you can to ensure everything is a tight and slop free as possible. The Lobros are the most difficult element to source and you may need to look out for someone breaking a 340. Nick used to offer exchange vertical links, machined to suit the outer CV and new one piece bearing but not sure whether he has any left. I have attached a PDF of the machining required to the VL in case you wish to get this done yourself.

The bits required are:

2 No Rover 100 LH driveshafts (to liberate the hub, outer CV joint and driveshaft) the vertical link, disk and inner joint all get discarded.

A pair of Rover 100/Maestro/Lotus wheel bearings (One piece bearings hence no shimming)

A pair of ‘Fastboots’ (low profile joint boots for inner end) from Raceparts Direct.

A set of machined vertical links

A pair of 95 dia GKN Lobro joints for the inner end of the shafts (these come from Volvo 340 driveshafts, with each shaft having two joints)

A pair of adaptor plates to join Lobro to diff outer flange.

A pair of brake drum centring rings (to pack out the Rover hub to suit the Triumph brake drum.

Preparation

Triumph bits need disassembling to liberate vertical links, brake back plates etc.

From the Rover 100 components:-

Remove inner CV joint off shaft and discard (watch out for the runny grease)

Undo big nut on end of drive shaft and pull shaft out of hub. (Could be loosened whilst still on donor car or else use a suitably drilled plank)

Hubs need to be pressed out of the vertical links (not easy- suggest press required) Inner bearing race may stick on the hub, in which case it will need to be ground and split off.

Assembly

Press new bearing into vertical link (cold bearing, warm link), fit retaining circlip and press hub into bearing. Having first put correct backplate onto correct side vertical link. (Need someone with a good press)

Grease and put new boot onto outer CV joint.

Fit drive shaft into hub (tighten big nut a bit)

Assemble inner end with Fastboot, Lobro and adaptor.

Fit rest of brake components.

Fit to car, then tighten hub nut (kin-tight) once wheels are on the ground.

If you subsequently need to change either the joints it can be done relatively easily without disturbing the bearings. The major upside for me was being able to dispense with the wheel arch mounted damper and fix it onto the chassis. We designed a special mount to address the slight fore and aft miss alignment that you get it using standard conversion kit. Drawing available if required. It's also nice not having to fight the Rotaflex when refitting.

Hope this helps

Regards

Ian F 😉

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Hi Ian, many thanks for that info.

I have had some guidance from Mr Jones but didn't like pestering him with everything! So much of it must be old hat to those already in the swim.

I have managed to locate the Rover and Volvo bits locally, one shaft already in my hands, two more in the hands of the breaker (hopefully). Not started to chase vertical links yet tbh, but they sound like more of a challenge.

I want to get some miles on the clock whilst progressing the fabrication process, so it's summer job. I am hoping that Nick will have some adapters made rather than me starting from scratch. I have pm'd him on that hopefully. There's no rush on my part.

Regards

Glyn S.

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Ian,
Thank you for that most useful list!
I'm already fitted, but need new boots.  Please tell and save me a trip to my freezing garage and a grovel under the car to know which of the four offered by Raceparts Direct is correct?

S12 100MM CV BOOT (OPEL) (DL5076     MS6K024     
S15 C.V. BOOT 108mm     MS6N001     
S10 C.V. BOOT 94mm     MS6J002     
S15 DL5075 EXTRA DROOP BOOT

Thanks,   I've got them from Europarts, but they are a bit wide, and foul the chassis rail!
John

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These John

S10 C.V. BOOT 94mm     MS6J002   94mm "fastboot" (also sometimes listed as 93mm)

But also worth checking Demon Tweeks and Merlin.  Raceparts were the cheapest by far for years (perhaps unintentionally) and I've bought many from them, but when I looked last year the price had gone up very sharply Demon Tweaks offered best value.

Nick

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Good news Nick, re the adaptors!

Looking at the MGF bearing/hub option, it seems that the costs shoot skyward if buying Timken bearings and new hub flanges. Someone mentioned that you have modified the GT6 bearing layout to ease the shimming process? That could be an interesting option.

Do other hub flanges fit the bill, with the larger bearing fitted? What is the quality of after market bearings?

I really would like to find some uprights so that I had a fall-back position if something went wrong!

Possibly I am too cautious but my car is on my drive and if, for whatever reason, the new system failed I would be in a bit of a pickle!!!!

My engineering background always advised a 'doomsday scenario' , a solution that could be applied to get you out of the hole that you have excavated.

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I have a complete GT6 mk2 backend on my car that will be removed shortly to fit one of Nick's beautifully engineered CV conversions - he did my hubs on an outright basis so my originals are still sitting there holding the wheels upright. So if you have no joy elsewhere, let me know - I had planned to sell the lot comp0lete. I am in Essex, which may influence your decision as they are heavy.

All the best

Marc

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Quoted from Sandgroper
Good news Nick, re the adaptors!

Looking at the MGF bearing/hub option, it seems that the costs shoot skyward if buying Timken bearings and new hub flanges. Someone mentioned that you have modified the GT6 bearing layout to ease the shimming process? That could be an interesting option.

Do other hub flanges fit the bill, with the larger bearing fitted? What is the quality of after market bearings?

I really would like to find some uprights so that I had a fall-back position if something went wrong!

Possibly I am too cautious but my car is on my drive and if, for whatever reason, the new system failed I would be in a bit of a pickle!!!!

My engineering background always advised a 'doomsday scenario' , a solution that could be applied to get you out of the hole that you have excavated.


Any good aftermarket bearing will be fine.
We’re not exactly running up umpteen thousand miles in then and they are easy enough to replace once you switch to the MG style.

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Quoted from Nick Jones
These John

S10 C.V. BOOT 94mm     MS6J002   94mm "fastboot" (also sometimes listed as 93mm)

But also worth checking Demon Tweeks and Merlin.  Raceparts were the cheapest by far for years (perhaps unintentionally) and I've bought many from them, but when I looked last year the price had gone up very sharply Demon Tweaks offered best value.

Nick


Thnaks, Nick!
Are we talking these "GKN Aerodynamic joint boots"?  On the DT website site they don't offer a confirming part no.
JOhn


That didn't work well.  Ty the URL https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/cv-joints-accessories/gkn-aerodynamic-cv-joint-boot

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