Sandgroper Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 To replace the MGF studs do the standard Triumph 3/8" studs fit, or is that too much to ask?I guess that it is down to the splined base size? I know that it has been done before so there is presumably a supplier of large splined 3/8" studs. If I modify my steel wheels to take the MG studs I will loose the pretty GT6 wheel centres unless they can be modified. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 Yes, the standard Triumph studs fit fine (they have relatively large bases for their size) and are in fact the only ones that can be changed in situ without drilling hole in the brake backplate.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandgroper Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 Fortunately I have the hubs 'in my hand'. Just too cold to get into the garage, which desperately needs a severe clean out before I start work!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 Wimp...... Spent hours in the garage today. Will agree it's a bit nippy though - bloody paint wouldn't dry......Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 Quoted from Sandgroper To replace the MGF studs do the standard Triumph 3/8" studs fit, or is that too much to ask?I guess that it is down to the splined base size? I know that it has been done before so there is presumably a supplier of large splined 3/8" studs. If I modify my steel wheels to take the MG studs I will loose the pretty GT6 wheel centres unless they can be modified. You could it 2000 studs and TR6 wheel nuts to give and increased stud size but retain the plastic collared nuts.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandgroper Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Probably stick with the GT 6 studs, but another option is always handy.Oh, by the way, Nick, its OK for you in sunny Somerset - I live in chilly Cheshire!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandgroper Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 Hi and happy Easter CV enthusiasts!!! Just trying to find out which grease to use on the inner CV joints (when I actually assemble them, adapters awaited!!). The outer boots are accompanied by grease sachets, but the inners are clean and need grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 I have a tin of grease on the shelf labelled "Lithium Moly CV Grease", might be worth having a search for something similar? comma-cv-lith-moly-grease-500g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 Black lithium-molybdenum CV grease available from your favourite lube manufacturer. You quite often get a sachet of it when you buy a gaiter kit (though not with the fastboot ones unfortunately). Adaptors are awaited from the machine shop. Seems that the ball has been dropped on account of the guy I've always dealt with having got himself a new job elsewhere since I placed the order........ Those left behind are now aware! Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandgroper Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 Hi Nick, Thanks for that! It is the fast boots that I will be buying, not available cheaply!!! I think it is the 'lithium' bit that matters, but there isn't a lot of real direction out there. I have started clearing out the garage to get at the CV shafts (well I've cleared a bit of the bench!!). Joints all feel good anyway. Regards Glyn S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6DavidMK1 Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 Classic Driving Developments shaft are superior just fitting a set to a Vitesse £595.00 a pair, I have another set in stock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 Superior to what? Depends if you want to retain the original hub and shimmed bearings really. I have some concerns about the support (or lack of) for the inner bearing spigot on the various non-Canley shafts I've seen for use with the original hubs, which don't have the bearing support land present on the original shaft and 1500FWD CVJ used by Canleys. On my very first conversion which used a fully-splined Ford CVJ in the original hub I was concerned about this, so added a spacer to between the bearings and moved the shim-pack so it all clamped up solid. That worked well and proved reliable, but those who tried the same CV without doing this and retaining the original shim positions soon ran into trouble. Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6DavidMK1 Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 CDD do shim kits for there shaft as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandgroper Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 Hi all, Part way through making up a set of CV joint driveshafts to the Nick Jones pattern. Just a couple of queries regarding the set up which some of you may have already met and resolved. Just trying to get an idea of just how flexible the options are! 1. Using the Rover outer joint/stub axle. Can this be fitted into the standard GT6 hub, shim problem and all? 2. I intend to fit MGF hubs and bearings. Even second hand vertical links are in short supply atm and Quillers want £130 each!!! With Canley alloy links at £149 they become a possible alternative. Would there be enough meat on them to withstand the machining necessary to take the MGF bearings? 3. As an unlikely prospect, if all else failed would the MG bearing be a fit with the original Rotoflex shaft. Regards Sandgroper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 Quoted from Sandgroper- Hi all, Part way through making up a set of CV joint driveshafts to the Nick Jones pattern. Just a couple of queries regarding the set up which some of you may have already met and resolved. Just trying to get an idea of just how flexible the options are! 1. Using the Rover outer joint/stub axle. Can this be fitted into the standard GT6 hub, shim problem and all? 2. I intend to fit MGF hubs and bearings. Even second hand vertical links are in short supply atm and Quillers want £130 each!!! With Canley alloy links at £149 they become a possible alternative. Would there be enough meat on them to withstand the machining necessary to take the MGF bearings? 3. As an unlikely prospect, if all else failed would the MG bearing be a fit with the original Rotoflex shaft. Regards Sandgroper. 1. No. Splines, offsets etc all different. 2. Vertical links are still out there. You usually have to buy a complete roto set (generally looking like it's spent 50 years buried in a salt marsh) and take you chances on condition and how long it'll take to get the bolts out. Regarding machining of the Canley alloy VLs to take the MGF bearings, I have always avoided doing this but there are those out there who have done. 3. No. See 1 Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 Quoted from Sandgroper- Hi all, Part way through making up a set of CV joint driveshafts to the Nick Jones pattern. Just a couple of queries regarding the set up which some of you may have already met and resolved. Just trying to get an idea of just how flexible the options are! 1. Using the Rover outer joint/stub axle. Can this be fitted into the standard GT6 hub, shim problem and all? 2. I intend to fit MGF hubs and bearings. Even second hand vertical links are in short supply atm and Quillers want £130 each!!! With Canley alloy links at £149 they become a possible alternative. Would there be enough meat on them to withstand the machining necessary to take the MGF bearings? 3. As an unlikely prospect, if all else failed would the MG bearing be a fit with the original Rotoflex shaft. Regards Sandgroper. 1. No. Splines, offsets etc all different. 2. Vertical links are still out there. You usually have to buy a complete roto set (generally looking like it's spent 50 years buried in a salt marsh) and take you chances on condition and how long it'll take to get the bolts out. Regarding machining of the Canley alloy VLs to take the MGF bearings, I have always avoided doing this but there are those out there who have done. 3. No. See 1 Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandgroper Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 Hi Nick, Thanks for that. Looks like its 'all or nothing'! No problem really as already I have the MG hubs and bearings, but wanted to slot things together on the bench ready to fit, plus having the original layout there if it was ever needed (not by me!). Best option is probably to bite the bullet and get the hubs machined when I get my scrappy to show up with my second Rover shaft. If anything goes belly up I can get a 'new' set of vertical links. Regards Glyn S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiTurbo228 Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 Hi Glyn, As for roto vertical links, if you do end up needing a set I've had good luck with David Saunders: triumphspares@btconnect.com Was a little while ago I bought them though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandgroper Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 Hi Simon, Thanks for that and your interest. I have more or less decided to utilise the existing and have them machined. I did find one source, Quillers, but the price was a bit steep for probably maltreated used examples when compared with Canley alloys. I have no reason to believe that the machining will go wrong, of course. My initial concern was that I would have a basket case on my drive with no rear support!!! The car is in A1/A2 condition so I needed a doomsday option, if you take my drift. I have been busy holidaying and required a new motor mover on my caravan, so the car is just now ready for the road. The driveshafts are completed and ready to fit next year probably. Australia is my next trip so the car will have to wait. While there I will compare notes with my son who will inherit the beast. Just for interest's sake I checked just how many Mk3 GT6's were made 13,042! So they are genuinely Vehicles of Historical Interest!!! Regards Glyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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