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Raising front of bonnet options?


THe Maestro

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Your observation is correct about the main rail flanges having a few 'blips'. This is quite normal as there isn't much strength there. I simply havn't got round to straightening these but will do before final painting. Let us know how you get on checking your chassis,

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JensH wrote:
Outriggers - they don't look "original" or "OE" spec. to me?
How is the gap at top bonnet/Dash Top Scuttlel? Seems to be ok?
But door/front wing gap is worse at the top end; i.e. if you raise front end of bonnet, it will hit Dash Top panel??
Could be combination of bend chassis, bad sill job etc.
Need more pics - what have been replaced (sills, wings etc)


"Outriggers" - I don't know really, I'll hopefully be able to compare with another car.

"How is the gap at top bonnet/Dash Top Scuttlel?"  - If I'm thinking about the same bit it would benefit from the bonnet being lifted up at the front so then I could push the bonnet further back and create a smaller gap.

"But door/front wing gap is worse at the top end; i.e. if you raise front end of bonnet, it will hit Dash Top panel?? "

No, lifting the front just makes it better really.

"Could be combination of bend chassis, bad sill job etc."  - I agree I think it maybe a combination of a few things being slightly wrong rather than one big think.  I think even if I cant get it all 100% perfect I can come to a good compromise all round.

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If the chassis is distorted, the quickest and easiest thing to do is replace the chassis.

A very good condition, straight and never welded 2nd hand chassis should cost no more than £100, and then it is just a case of transferring all the parts from one over onto the other.  Much easier than trying to get a bodyshop to straighten an old bent one.

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With a log flat object in the same position as the spirit level shown in Scottie55's photo above the underside of the chassis is completely flat on both sides.  Infact its completely flat from  the back until where it starts bending upwards at the very front.  

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Hey maestro, I'm going to ask the obvious question - are you certain the straight edge you used was definately straight and rigid ie, didn't flex when you propped it up against the chassis? Worth checking this before moving on to what to look at next.    

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429 wrote:
Hey maestro, I'm going to ask the obvious question - are you certain the straight edge you used was definately straight and rigid ie, didn't flex when you propped it up against the chassis? Worth checking this before moving on to what to look at next.    


It was a metal brush handle about 1.5 meters long maybe.  It would flex if pressure was put on it but I held it very loosely against the bottom of the rails and didn't press on it.  Not a perfect thing to use  I admit and I will test it again with a better object when I find one but I'm pretty confident its flat because I was careful that it wasn't flexing.

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I'll be around tomorrow, no problem.
According to the weather forcast we should be ok until 3 or 4 o'clock before it chucks it down.

I'll phone you tomorrow around noon to check it's still ok to pop over to see you. (may even come up a bit earlier so we can get a better look without getting too wet)

Look out for this car .........................................



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My cars a bit like your car's ugly twin!  I just discovered that my paint job from last summer has gone to pot as its full of micro-blisters :(  I think maybe I should have sanded & waxed it immediately to keep the damp from invading the paint.

I'll probably be out of the drive doing some work on it today, I just got new door hinges and an indicator in the post.

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tiggrr1 wrote:
That photo flatters the car, although I've sorted out the gap on the rear hatch since then ;)


Good, you had help me sort mine out because its the exact same!  I think on mine its just because the rubber seal is on wrong and goes over the catch mechanism.

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Thanks Steve and Rob for letting me look at your cars today  :P

Didn't come up with a definate reason for the problem although to me its clear now that the problem is at the very front of the car around the hinge mountings and the bonnet support tubes and not with the chassis.  My car has a much smaller gap between the bonnet and the bumper than either car I saw today by up to 3/4 - 1") and most GT6s and spits I've seen pictures of.  I can't understand why this is the case because my bonnet support tubes are mounted higher on the hinge box, the tubes on my car were slightly longer than Steve's car and the angle in the bend of the tubes in my car looks higher (which should also raise the bonnet higher).  But the bonnet is still much lower at the front in relation to the bumper.  

One difference was that on Steve's car the hinge box is a different design - its narrower and has a ridge half way down where it narrows even more.  Maybe that had something to do with it.  ANyway my conclusion is: Lengthen the tubes, I'm convinced that'll sort it, and also as Rob pointed out a larger gap at the front helps keep the engine cool anyway.

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