Jonny-Jimbo Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 Unless you have a Demon Tweeks discount code... saves a good amount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
booley Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 Quoted from Mark Hammond Welcome back! I for one have really, really, really missed this thread! I know that you've still been around but I can't wait to see the finished GT6!Mark DITTO! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted January 15, 2016 Author Share Posted January 15, 2016 Thanks for the gauge tip, Tim. I have another one in my Herald, and so far it's been OK, but I'll keep an eye on this one.The brake master cylinder has been resleeved in stainless. Apparently the minor rust I could see in the front section was the tip of the iceberg, and the rear section was worse. The rear section was originally slightly narrower, but the entire assembly is now 3/4" diameter. The reconditioner made a new larger rear piston to match the new bore.It's reassembled and back in the car. I'll bleed it tomorrow, and then hopefully she'll have brakes for the first time in who knows how long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drofgum Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 Nick,What do you use for a rebuild of the master cylinder now that it isn't standard size? Curious, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted January 15, 2016 Author Share Posted January 15, 2016 Quoted from drofgum Nick,What do you use for a rebuild of the master cylinder now that it isn't standard size? Curious, Paul The front section was already 3/4", so the seals for the front piston will be the same. BHSS, the machin shop, supplied the 3/4" inch rear seal to go with their new brass piston. If the cylinder ever needs new seals, I'll either have to go back to BHSS, or find another one somewhere. That said, 0.75" seals must be pretty common. I'm not worried.I've just realised that the 'exploded' master cylinder view is wrong. After taking the photo I took another look at the 'tipping valve' - the small spring-loaded assembly that lets brake fluid into the front cylinder from the reservoir. The spring should sit above the flat metal disc, not below. Unfortunately I forgot to take another photo, and it's not coming out for one now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted January 16, 2016 Share Posted January 16, 2016 Out of curiosity, have you brazed the pipes where they fit the manifold?Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 Hi Tony, yes, the primary pipes have been brazed to the manifold flange. I don't know whether the joins were MIG welded first, with braze simply sealing up any pinholes. All the other joins and welds have been done with a MIG or TIG. Google research is divided on whether brazing manifolds is a good idea. The car is going away to an exhaust specialist on Thursday to get the secondary pipes made, so I'll discuss the brazing with them. The brakes are on and working, sort of. Those tandem cylinders are tricky to get working, and it took two days, two rebuilds of the master cylinder and one strip down of the PDWA before I could get the rear brakes working. Now they work very well, but the front circuit requires pumping. It could be because the servo is only plumbed into the front circuit, I'm not sure. I'll give it a few days to dislodge any remaining trapped air, and it might also help to turn the car around in the garage so that the rear is uphill instead of the nose. If all that fails, I'll take it to a brake specialist.Learnings for the weekend - I can now get the master cylinder out of the car in under five minutes, including siphoning the fluid out first. Brake fluid makes your fingertips wrinklier than water. And it doesn't matter how careful you are, it always gets onto the paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 The recent discussion on another thread about the need for a safety cutout switch for fuel pumps reminded me that I hadn't fitted one to the GT6 yet. I ordered one from eBay, and attached it to the bulkhead behind the battery where it is easy to access and reset. Bumping it showed that it will trip if knocked hard either front to back or side to side, but that up and down knocks don't trigger it. If the impact cutout switch trips, it will also activate a warning lamp in the dashboard. The lamp was originally connected to the cold running circuit when the car was wired for Microsquirt, to remind me not to give it the beans until the engine was up to temperature. MS3-Pro doesn't have a cold-running indicator output, so the lamp was redundant. Now, if we ever go over a big bump, the engine cuts out and and the red lamp comes on, I will know what the problem is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 Gone! The GT6 is away getting its headers finished and Rimmers 'sports' exhaust system installed. With it gone, the Herald has sneaked into the garage. I hope it's not getting too comfortable in there, as the GT6 should be back in a week or so.I used a flatbed tow truck to transport the GT6. Two trucks in fact. Despite me carefully explaining what the car was when I booked the truck, the first guy turned up with a forklift already on his truck, to pick up my 'motorbike' - he'd never heard of Triumph cars. He suggested towing the GT6 behind his truck, assuring me that he did that sort of thing all the time, never had a problem and was fully insured. I declined his kind offer, preferring an intact car to a wrangle with an insurance company for replacing a car so rare in Australia that there's no established market value. A few minutes later another truck turned up, the GT6 was rolled out of the garage for the first time in about three years, and we were on our way.At the exhaust shop, I explained to the fabricator what I wanted and gave him my Gareth Thomas primaries and photos of how Gareth's headers look when finished.I'll stick my head in on Monday and see how they're getting on. Leaving the GT6 on the side of the road outside the exhaust shop felt like leaving a child at daycare for the first time. I swear its bottom lip was trembling as I walked away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
byakk0 Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 looking sweet Nick. You've got me drooling.I'm looking into having the local community college do some blasting and priming/painting on my bonnet and doors. (painting just the inside bits only). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 Aaaand a confession. I spent hours in the weekend trying to bleed the brakes. I stripped the master cylinder about three times, changing seals and springs. I opened and checked the PDWA valve body. I bled and re-bled the VH44 servo. And still, the master cylinder struggled to hold pressure in the front circuit unless the pedal was pumped vigorously.Yesterday when the car was up on the tow truck's deck, I was gazing through a front wheel at the red Canley / AP Racing 4 pot calipers, which were now at eye level, when I realised that there are two bleed nipples on each caliper. The outer nipples aren't visible from above when the wheels are on, and I'd only been bleeding the inner one as you would for a Girling type 16. My guess is that the outer halves are still mostly full of air, which had to be compressed by repeatedly pumping the pedal before the system contained enough pressure to feel through the pedal. The photo below is from Canley Classics' website, and you can see the outer bleed nipple easily. The red matches my face.Guess what I'll be doing as soon as the car comes back from the exhaust shop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
booley Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 Great stuff Nick! I love that pic of the little car in front of the big truck.Thanks for the tip on brake bleeding as I have a Canley's big brake kit that I will be installing...(sorry for all your frustration) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted January 27, 2016 Author Share Posted January 27, 2016 I dropped into the exhaust shop this morning to see how they were progressing. I'd had a gut feeling - the guy doing the work wasn't there when I dropped the car off and his assistant had seemed a little vague. Fortunately the main man was there this morning and had only started on the car today. And it was just as well, as his assistant hadn't shown him my notes and photographs.To recap - I ended up with only a set of primary pipes rather than a finished header. GT shipped a jig to make the secondaries, but as it's in Melbourne, I decided to go it alone and finish the headers to suit my car. GT's never divulged the exact length of the secondaries - they seem to have shortened over the years - but I figure that as long as they're all the same length, they'll be fine. So I'd left a photo of GT's blue headers in the boot, with notes on pipe diameters and the O2 sensor bung location.The exhaust guy had made a good start, heating and bending the pipes for cylinders 2, 3, 4 and 5 so that they clear the chassis and steering column. Apparently the law here requires 10mm clearance, which would be a bloody miracle on a GT6! But sure enough, the pipes now have the required clearance from the column and chassis. He hadn't started on the 1 and 6 pipes. Interestingly, even on GT's primaries, the 1 and 6 pipes are slightly different lengths. Not enough to make a difference, probably, but it goes to show just how hard true equal length 6-3-1 extractors are to make. Still, compared to Craig's Phoenix headers, GT's are lovely!Because he hadn't seen the blue header photo, the guy's next step was going to be to add a 3-1 collector in front of the starter motor, with no proper secondaries at all. He's going to do it as per the photo now! Once the car comes home, I'll repaint the suspension turret and steering column to remove any incriminating marks before the engineering inspection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiTurbo228 Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 I don't suppose you'd be able to do me a big favour when you get the headers back? I'm trying to work out clearances for a long-tube resonant intake and the only way it might fit in the engine bay is to have it double back towards the headers.If you get the chance, would you be able to measure roughly how far the primary pipes come away from the head face? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 Ello Nick, them calipers look like Willwoods, they look just like mine.work a treat wid 1144,s in em.Ye say that theres a inertia cut oot switch in noo,butt i would still put in a OFF switch, { earth side } in feed, i easy hand reach, hidden if needed, this is cos yer running EFI, and if ye want to fart aboot ont comp for maps or settings, then ye need IGN on, which means pumps runningthis switch will nok it off, but leave ECU fired upjust a thowt for yeM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 With MS, the pump only runs for a few seconds unless it detects that the engine is running.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted January 28, 2016 Author Share Posted January 28, 2016 I'll measure the headers when they come home. The pipes for 2, 3, 4 & 5 stick out about as far as the steering column, if that helps. There really isn't much room for long inlet runners, or anything else for that matter!As Nick J says, the fuel pump should only run for a few seconds to prime the fuel system, and won't run again unless th engin is turning over. That said, I will install a switch for the pump. I may have to relocate the pump from inside the tank to under the boot floor, due to ADR rules. Not happy about that 🙁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiTurbo228 Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Quoted from Nick Moore I'll measure the headers when they come home. The pipes for 2, 3, 4 & 5 stick out about as far as the steering column, if that helps. There really isn't much room for long inlet runners, or anything else for that matter! Brill thanks a lot I thought it might be a bit tight :S hoping there's just enough space...The design I have at the moment reaches down about 20cm from the inlet ports, and the critical area for clearance of the manifolds is about 13cm down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Quoted from Nick Moore I may have to relocate the pump from inside the tank to under the boot floor, due to ADR rules. Not happy about that 🙁 What? In-tank pumps are more or less universal on modern cars now and have been for knocking on 10 years......Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted January 28, 2016 Author Share Posted January 28, 2016 Quoted from Nick Jones What? In-tank pumps are more or less universal on modern cars now and have been for knocking on 10 years......Nick Unfortunately, since I modified my tank, I've found out that the ADR rules specify that fuel lines can't run in the cabin. Actually they also say that the fuel tank can't be in the cabin, but I'm hoping that as it's the original tank in the original location, I'll get away with that.The legislation gets complicated because state and federal rules can be different and even contradictory, and what is allowed in one state can be illegal in the next. Sometimes you have to read the regulations from several states and work out the commonalities. Also, experts tell you different things, especially if you're paying them to modify something. Don't get me started on catalytic converters... It looks like unless I can re-route the outlet pipes from the in-tank pump out the bottom of the tank, I'll have to move all the plumbing underneath the car. I'm not sure about the fuel return pipe, that may have to enter the bottom of the tank too. Regardless, I'll talk to some engineers before changing anything.Grrrr. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Can you not put an isolating "box" around the tank area? Or stick a standard tank and carbs on it for the certification process... or is that something that recurs....?Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted January 28, 2016 Author Share Posted January 28, 2016 If the certifier gets properly obstinate then yes, I might have to construct a new boot floor above the tank so that no fuel can enter the cabin in the event of a leak. However, that would be a major structural modification. Hopefully not - the requirements change depending on the age of the car, too.And yes, in theory I could get the car certified on carburettors, but GT's headers don't fit the standard inlet manifold - they were never designed to. Triple Webers mayhaps. However, you're not supposed to change the car after it gets its blue chassis plate. The inspection only happens once, but that's why I've put off returning the car to the road until it's in its fully evolved form. I could have had it running as a 2L with standard running gear about two years ago. That said, I'm sure it will continue to be developed in the future, but more detailed work than major spec changes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 Went back to the exhaust shop. They're making progress. To get the legally required clearance between the chassis and secondaries, the 1 & 6 primaries have been modified. Number 1 is now an inch or so longer - I know, it's no longer equal length, but I don't think it'll have much effect on performance. For a racing car you'd chase the last percent, but not for a road car.Hopefully it'll be ready in the next day or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 The headers and exhaust are finished. The header primaries - all I was sent - required a lot of alteration for the secondaries to fit without notching the chassis main rail. The exhaust guy commented that frankly, it wouldn't have taken any longer to have made them from scratch. Ouch. Number 6 pipe is very close to the starter motor, but that can be rotated out of the way. The stainless water pipe has been changed for a straight TR6 one, which moves the rubber hose away from pipe no.6 as well. The steering column now clears by miles. 🙂The secondaries merge into a single 65mm pipe with provision for an oxygen sensor, and there's a flexible joint before the headers connect to the rest of the exhaust system. The exhaust pipe, central resonator and back box are located with three mounts, so they won't move much. There is very little clearance around the central resonator, so the pipe needs to be well located.The Rimmers 'sport' exhaust is only 45mm diameter, so we had to include a step-down from the headers. I suspect it was designed to work with the cast iron manifold, as it is certainly not sporty! I could have chucked the Rimmers setup out and run a bigger pipe but dammit, I paid many pounds for it! Also, it will be interesting to fit a 65mm system and larger back box one day and see how many extra horses are unleashed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 On our way home. It looks surprised to be out in the daylight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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