Dipped in green glass

[Nick Moore]

I didn't ask Brian to recess the cups, but hopefully he'll check the available bonnet clearance with the injector pockets at the chosen angle before he makes the rail. The nipple on the top of the cup is supposed to sit in a hole drilled in the steel rail, with th body of the cup outside the rail. But you're right - recessing the cups into the rail could give a few more mm - good thinking Mr C!

[Nick Moore]

The exhaust is finished... again. I decided to show a couple of examples of Performance Pipes' (Acacia Ridge, Brisbane, if anyone's wondering) truly awful attempt at making secondaries and a 3-1 collector, just in case someone Googles them one day. Don't go there!

The repaired manifold is also shown. It is all one piece, has short secondaries with a flat 3-1 collector, and can be easily removed from the car once the starter motor's out. It also has tons of clearance around the chassis, suspension turret and steering column.

So Exhaust Innovations 1, Performance Pipes nil.

[Nick Moore]

The GT6 came home again yesterday, and hopefully won't need to be trucked off to any more specialists. It looked tiny next to the Mustang - what Americans call a small sports car 😀

And it had only been home a few minutes before the cat reclaimed her snoozing spot.

The manifold is back on temporarily to check bonnet clearances with the fuel rail and throttle linkage mounted. The bonnet still closes, in fact there's at least half an inch clearance at the front of the fuel rail. This weekend I'll add six vacuum ports, grind down the portions of the injector pockets protruding into the inlet tracts and do a spot of polishing. Then all that's left will be the vacuum rail, and she'll be ready to start!

[Paul Garvey]

Stunning Nick - you must be really pleased!  Paul

[GT6MK3]

Looking great Nick!

How did the exy pipe lengths end up?

Looking forward to YouTube time!

C.

[Nick Jones]

I....... have made fire......!

Nick

[GT6MK3]

http://youtu.be/IS7Og1zvdy8

[Nick Moore]

I am bloody lucky not to have made fire today.

Having finished the fuel system, I pressure tested it for the first time. The garage door will probably stay up tonight to air it out  

Firstly, I found that the fuel pressure regulator was oozing petrol from every orifice, the pressure gauge didn't show any pressure and yet the pump was labouring. When I undid the return line, it was pressurised and I got a face full of fuel. Fortunately there's a tap in the garage so I was able to wash my face pdq. It burned and the skin is still tender.

While I retired for a nice hot shower to wash the stink of fuel off, I decided that the return line must be blocked, else it couldn't retain pressure. Back out to the garage, I detached the return line in the boot, blew into the tank and could hear happy bubbling noises. (Happy? Possibly the fumes were getting to me). So the return certainly wasn't blocked in the tank. Then another possibility struck - if I'd connected the lines up back to front, all the pressure would have gone to the regulator's return port and no further. Eventually it would just have stalled the pump, which is pretty much what was happening. I detached what was supposed to be the feed line from the front of the fuel rail, found it was dry, huffed and puffed, and again could hear bubbling from the tank. Bingo.

Once the feed and return lines were hooked up the right way round, the gauge read over four bar. Then the gauge started to leak... But at least the fuel rail and other junctions were tight, which I will call a win.

Tomorrow's first job will be to fit the pressure gauge with plumber's tape, and set the pressure to 3 bar. In the meantime I need another shower 🤔

[Nick Jones]

Yeah, you do need to keep the fire on the inside of the engine......  Well done for surviving that!  Sounds like progress was made in the end.

Nick

[thebrookster]

Fraid your eyes are gonna sting for a few days yet as well!! Or at least if my experiences with Diesel at 10 Bar in December was anything to go by!!

(BTW - anyone ever seen a jet of diesel fly clean across a 10 metre space, hit the far wall and then bounce back and hit you from behind?? Quite a staggering spectacle which I don't recommend, all I can say is thank god for safety glasses!!)

Get the pressure gauge wrapped in several layers of PTFE tape!! It holds to some remarkable pressures as well!!

Cheers,

Phil

[GT6 M]

coming on v nicely Nick
advice, but mebe no needed.
butt frae experiance, better to check noo than fin oot later

the starter feed wire looks v v close to them pipes,
it will get v v hot if not even melt

2nd, the feed wire forit, on thee,s starters they generally face forads, towards the pipes, its actually nearer pipes than big feed
{  if yours is similar to most others }

the  wee hodder that the single wires in,  can be turned aroond, so it faces backwards.
cant se yours as its ont back side, but could be awkward to get at if  it fries,!!!

see pics, mebe some help if ye no already got this covered



side yours is on, this fried and cracked the insulation




[IMG]http:
//i545.photobucket.com/albums/hh369/marcusaurailius/GT6%20%20Bits/STARTER%20MOTOR/BILD0002_zpsf1f1a081.jpg[/IMG]



And seal the other end so water no gets in and does this





and drill a wol in the v bottom of the housing { bottom bit } sen in 2 nd pic,  Original was on the side,{ this be on bottom on an OE set up }   and lets water in here too, so any water moisture can get oot,  not turn to steam and short oot even moer,  hence burned oot feed hole,

M

[Nick Moore]

Thanks Marcus, I know I have to devise some sort of shielding for the starter wiring. The drain hole is a good idea, too.

Today I made small amounts of fire, lots of smoke and phenomenal amounts of noise. It's not running though, not really. I fixed all but one fuel regulator leak, and suspect that the 5/16" 'injection hose' I bought isn't the real thing. It's already softening and the outer layer is flaking off, and fuel squeezes out around one hose clamp. However, the leak is small, so I moved on to wiring up the injectors (easy) and throttle sensor. That damned TPS was tricky, as following the wiring instructions put the MS3 Pro brain into limp mode and shut down the fuel pump. The clue was that the ECU thought that the throttle was open when close and vice versa, so once the two outside wires were swapped over, it was happy.

The throttle cable was next, and I used a motorbike inner cable and 90 degree guide. At the moment, the throttles don't open fully with the pedal, as the linkages want a little more pedal movement. That should be easy enough to adjust though.

So, with the fuel side sorted (ish) and the throttle sensor working, I decided to try and start it.

Mostly smoke and bangs happened, out the throttles. On occasion it ran for a second or so, but it felt as though the timing was off. Changing the timing wheel figure in the software changed the amount of smoke and kick-backs, but my original figure seemed to get the best, or least worst, results. Swapping the leads on the coil made it far worse, so I don't think that's the problem.

Consulting the manual, it advised walking away for the day, so I did. The car got a wash and I'll charge the battery tonight. One possibility us that I haven't added the MAP vacuum takeoff yet, so the throttle opening but no changes in manifold vacuum detected may have confused it. Veteran Megasquirters, does that sound reasonable? I'll add the vacuum takeoffs before trying to start it again, and will also add a remote starter button a là Trimble so that I can use the timing light to see where the sparks are happening.

[Nick Moore]

Who remembers the opening scene from 'The World's Fastest Indian'? It's still dark when Burt wheels his Indian V-Twin racer outside, jumps on and fires it up. Sparks and chickens fly, windows are flung open and neighbours yell. I'm no Burt Munro, so I waited until the sun was up (ish). And then...

https://youtu.be/11X6bgX-AtQ



Last night I'd checked the camshaft position, and it was OK. However, I found that Rocker 2's locknut was loose, and so this morning checked all the valve clearances and cleaned the sooty plugs. I also swapped the coils of 2 & 5 and 3 & 4 over. Nick Jones had suggested that because #1 was showing the correct timing, I could be sure that 1 & 6's HT leads were on the right coil. However, just because the other HT leads were on the right coil posts, didn't mean I'd wired the coil up correctly. Once they were swapped, she cleared her throat and ran.

It is literally years since I heard the bark of a Triumph Six, especially the sound of a Six with a big cam and PI-like throttles, but it's a sound you never forget. The neighbours won't either.

I was able to drive her up and down the street, and have already started a desnagging list:

• Rewire ignition coils
  
• Tidy up fuel return pipe and fix the last fuel pressure regulator leak
  
• Add vacuum takeoffs for idle control and brake booster
  
• Plumb in the MAP sensor vacuum rail
  
• Tune the engine - she's running really rich
  
• Big oil leak from the front of the engine - change sump?
  
• Fan motor triggers the crank wheel sensor - move radiator forwards, or fit a larger rad?
  
• Rubbing noise from the front right brakes - check pads
  
• Fix back wheel rubbing on the mudflap
  
• Find source of intermittent rubbing noise around the rear of the gearbox
  
• Fabricate a plenum and air filter
  
• Finish fibreglass gearbox hump
  

[junkuser]

Great to hear Nick, both the sound and the news.
There will be many on here very happy for you.
Just hope that stories about the local "Boys in Blue"(Actually khaki in some parts up your way) being unfair are not to follow.

Congrats,
Mal.

[Paul Garvey]

Nick - very impressive! Paul

[Nick Moore]

I doubt the Fuzz will worry about me testing the car in our street. Mind you, the front end oil leak makes it easy to trace.

However, the oil leak may be partly washed away by a steady trickle from the brand new alloy water pump! It's been sitting on the shelf for the last few years waiting for the car to run, but has never been used until today. Presumably the seal had hardened and disintegrated on startup, or maybe the seal was rubbish anyway. I don't remember who I bought it from, so I can't send it back. Has anyone stripped down one of these pumps?

[Mark Hammond]

Canleys do an alloy pump that is rebuildable.  Perhaps their repair kit would fit yours?

Mark

[byakk0]

I can't find it now, but I looked into rebuilding these water pumps and found a good how-to online, although there are a number of specialty tools required.

[Jonny-Jimbo]

... I might have to watch Worlds Fastest Indian this weekend now... I was going to watch Adrenaline (The BMW Story).

Interesting that the ambiant sounds around you are so different to here. It's not a surprise of course, but the bird calls were so different to the twittering you get here.

[yorkshire_spam]

Great stuff!

[GT6 M]

Looking, and I must say, sounds good, nice idle,
a wee bit of tinkering wid the parameters first !!!

Manis look really good too, well done
there always lots of wee jobs that seem to crop up.

if sump, then dont use a gasket, use high temp silicon,
infact use it every where

Make yer seat base  lift up, then can leave comp under it, ala FAF film,!!!
ohhh, get that red pent oft water pump, its either gotta be pented,or left, cant ev it splattered in wayward brush strokes,

M

[Royboy66]

Clapping here Nick !  (clap)

Whoop !  

[andy thompson]

Brilliant - at least you don't need to run the cam in! Get the idle mixture right quickly and be careful not to wash the bores !

[Tim Bancroft]

Fantastic stuff, well done Nick.

What a great looking car.

Looking forward to anecdotes about long driving trips in the GT6.

Blimey, its motivational!

[Beans]

Indeed great looking car 🙂