Martin M Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Hi,try to do my diff of the Spifire 1500. Late diff with collapsable spacer.In my (german translated ;) ) manual the preload is written as 1,8 - 2,77 kgf/m. Isn´t that a bit high? In my manual of the GT6 ( an original one) the preload for the solid spacer diff is mentioned up to 0,193 kg/m.Does someone have an original Spitfire manual and could check?ThanksMartin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phwoar Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Hi Martin,In my "original manual" (Mk1, Mk2 etc) they are quoting 12-16 lb/in, I don't suppose there is a massive difference between the Mk1/Mk2 and 1500 differentials, it suggests your lower value of 0.193 kg/m is the correct preload.Hope this helps.Cheers,James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piero franchi Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 If I was you, I would do away with the crushable shim.build the pinion up as if it was an earlier model Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 +2 on above, they are a real pain in the Butttt.M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin M Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share Posted January 29, 2015 Thankswill put 2 on topI think it is not that easy to change to the solid spacer version. And I first would have to obtain all the parts (solid spacer, shims, ..).Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin M Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 Started to dismantle 3 Diffs.None of the Diffs had the Shims ATA7039 / 134075 for the sunwheels fitted. Adding Lightness? I obtained two sets from two suppliers on the continent. One set is brass one set is kind of plastic? All had the same pinion shim of 2,01 mm fitted. Standardization?The smoothest running one was missing two half teeth at the crownwheel ;D Lets see how it evolves. Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 Martin, doo away wid the collapsable spacer, honest.get yer self some little bits of steel tube turned up, same dia as pin shaft, same sort of length.mebe a few thou shorter, then it can be shimmed up.buy yer self some shim steel packs, this way ye can make yer own shims for the fine settins.as for the diff planets shims, its nearly always the small thrusts that go.so get some bronze sheet, can git it in diff sizes of flea bay, or a steel merchant.mark oot a circle on the bits ye need, drill a wol thrue middle, then this is the techie bit.git yer self a bigg bolt, and a nut, and useing a spare diff cage, put the bit of shim on the indent bearing.put gear ower it, put bolt thru the 2, then wid nut, and 2 spanners, tighten up.this will force the shim to the shape of whats needed.Im no at yam just noo, but will bung some pics up when I get back on Tues, good lukM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin M Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 Can I replace the collapsable spacer by the solid one? Or are further changes necessary?Found shim steel in fleabay uk .So a reason to go to the UK beginning March. ;)Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 Yes n No, on a collapsable type, the shaft is thicker for longer up,t shaft.ye can mek,or use a spacer from an OE non collapsable,n, but top must be opened oot a littleif it dont cover the extra thickness, as it wont seat correctlythe OE collapsable spacer is aboot an inch ,ish, and it fits onto a lip int pinnion.its this lip that ye have to use to sit a made up solid spacer, ye got a lathe !!! its v v easy. wait untill the morrow, I show ye some picspics speak 1000,s of wurds.then all becomes clear.I just did one on a salloon diff, and its a darn sight easier dooing a solid spacer than a collapsable,nohhh some , tip top tips, if ye no done em befoer, then ev a fart aboot with one first.this to get the nak o things.remember, pinninon in / oot, = contact patch on CW = up or doon {heel / toe }CW in /oot = mesh pattern is in / oot on CW { deeper in, or oot towards edge }tooth contact right at top, then on ave, a 4 thou shim under pinnion bearing will tek tooth contact doon.NOTE, there ne need to tek bearing reet oot,nok it doon a wee bit, then insert shim thru the gap [Need to mek up shims if ye aint got any }then nok bearing bak in, also, a 4 thou shim there, as ain above , will need a 4 thou shim under the spacer too.best to put under spacer, as if pit on top, they stik to outer bearing, and can become ..lost, when its took to bits agen to get correct mesh patternand if start,n frae scratch, then it be in /oot a few times. :odiff gears should be as T.A.F, ie, vv stiff / notchy to turn by holding out put shaftsye will deffo need a micrometer, this for diff shims, its a MUST have item, and some Engineers Blueso too is a BIGG vice, a selection of drifts, a bigg pry bar to retard diff as its turned for setting up, and a wood chok. the chok is to put under pinnion teeth/ head end, so ye can wack bearing doon.whislt diff case is resting on pinnion head.a few other thingsmost OE bearings took off will be ok, unless they are shot, re use em, this way, its no as criticle to get a pree load as such, as most of the stuff ive took to bits, has been in my mind ..too slack..meaning that either OE setting wer,nt done right, or bearing wore diff than what was expectedand put a drain plug in, by some small 5 x 15 mm bar magnets, drill plugs, and fit into em,drill so its a tight press fit, and need to get N rated heat resistant typea N is after the number, or an ordinary type looses its magnetism after 80 odd degs and heat cycles. bung em in drain an fill plugs, for best swarf collectionwill give ye a contact numer, thry v v good sevice, and v v reasonable, I just got 100 of em to use on diffs / boxes.its time intensive, but ye will soon get the hang of it.see pics the morrow or tues, depending wen im backM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin M Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 Some pics. Wear pattern withs shims as is and a nice output flange, surely sealing wellI may be the one in Stoneleigh looking for diffs to dismantle to get two proper ones together Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Here ye go Martin, need to mek shims then either use yer own diff as a mouldor use an old,n cut upGet some shimput a gear owa itones alang front, is just been med upsame thing for the bigg side,ns, use bigg flat washer to flatten it to shapetend to mek a few up, then bolt t,gether wid washers, then turn to a roundshape int lathe.thee,s are the magnets i use, drill 4.7 mm and squash in wid vicemagnet linkhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181577047773?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&var=480536842880&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 MarcusI can't help but think it is going to be a right pain in the arse to put that diff back together.An angle grinder was definatley overkill during the dismantling, trust me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 thescrapman wrote:MarcusI can't help but think it is going to be a right pain in the arse to put that diff back together.An angle grinder was definatley overkill during the dismantling, trust me.Nowt a bit of JB Weld wont fix Col. :PM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin M Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 Easy to understand how to make the copper shims.Magnets ordered.Solid spacer, yes I have a small lathe :) . Will search for some raw material in the waste bin of a mates locksmithery.ThanksMartinJB Weld? No, Gaffer tape, its easyer to dismantle again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 Yip its easy to see wid pics.Butt, get biggest bolt nut ye can, and also the biggest breaker bar ye gotthis to give it a good pressing into shape.use a bit of lube too. lets no hoo ye get onM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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