Jump to content

Removing the rear hubs


Ken Young

Recommended Posts

I have decided to rebuild and renovate the rear suspension on my mk1 this winter. I have seen the special tool that you can buy to pull off the hubs, but is it possible just to use a standard three legged hub puller.
Also I would be very grateful if anyone could let me know of any common tricks or snags with the whole operation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quoted from Ken Young
I have seen the special tool that you can buy to pull off the hubs, but is it possible just to use a standard three legged hub puller.  


Yes you can use a three legged puller, however the flanges will no longer be flat and you will have to buy new ones. Cheaper to get the correct tool. The taper on the halfshaft/flange join is incredibly strong and the flanges are vulnerable when a 3 legged puller is used.

Whereabouts are you? There maybe someone near you with access to one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello,

The special tool is the way to go, maybe you can borrow or rent from another forum member. I did my own after trying with a three legged puller. I had to use some heat to remove the hub, for the bearing housing I had to put the nut on the axle to protect the threads and slam it to a piece of wood.

Saw to late that others replied..

Good luck
Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't forget that you need one tool to remove the hubs, and another to remove the inner bearing from the half shafts... even on eBay these cost £108 for the two; however I've spotted that on eBay you can buy complete reconditioned assemblies for £125 per side. I know I like to do things myself and get the satisfaction of a job accomplished, but in this case I'd rather go the extra cost than have two specialised tools lying about the garage that I'll only ever use once or twice. I have too many of those already!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quoted from Paudman
Don't forget that you need one tool to remove the hubs, and another to remove the inner bearing from the half shafts... even on eBay these cost £108 for the two; however I've spotted that on eBay you can buy complete reconditioned assemblies for £125 per side. I know I like to do things myself and get the satisfaction of a job accomplished, but in this case I'd rather go the extra cost than have two specialised tools lying about the garage that I'll only ever use once or twice. I have too many of those already!


However if you are just changing defunct bearings then it wise to have the tools to replace a £20.00 bearing
The £125.00 replacement also needs a service exchange unit with a £100.00 excess unit, so it can cost £225.00 if you do not have a service exchange unit

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quoted from Velocita Rosso


However if you are just changing defunct bearings then it wise to have the tools to replace a £20.00 bearing
The £125.00 replacement also needs a service exchange unit with a £100.00 excess unit, so it can cost £225.00 if you do not have a service exchange unit


I assume the OP will be taking the old ones off, as there's not much point in changing the bearings on an axle you haven't got in the first place, so therefore will have exchange units... I've no connection with the seller but reconditioned shafts, new bearings and tab washers on a sandblasted and repainted backplate with new UJs and nylocs for the flanges seems a good deal. There are always hidden charges - such as carriage - but then how many hours of my time in the garage, sandblasting, repainting, trips to motor factors or the Postal Sorting Office to collect parcels and the petrol that costs will be saved?
So: £108 for tools that you use once every how many years... against a one-off fit and hopefully forget assembly, which will save me a lot of time and effort... just seems to me to be a lot less bother and hassle and a good deal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quoted from Paudman



So: £108 for tools that you use once every how many years... against a one-off fit and hopefully forget assembly, which will save me a lot of time and effort... just seems to me to be a lot less bother and hassle and a good deal.


Depends on how much you use the car
On regular use , bearings can be changed fairly often

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you do do it yourself, leave the backplate on from the drum brake. Then, after you've 'popped' the taper, but the shaft is stuck in the bearing housing, you've got something to hang onto when you need to wallop the end of the driveshaft with a copper hammer! As has been said, put the nut back on to protect the threads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...