MarkB Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 Hi all In the process in putting the Vitesse back together and I am having to revisit a job I thought was done and dusted several years ago.I have Kingston Sports Cars sliding splines drive shafts fitted and shimmed the hubs to the correct end float, so I thought, but a couple of months ago whilst under the car i pulled on the driveshaft for some reason and felt some play. Looking closely I could see some movement in the bearing. I removed both shafts off the car and remeasured the end float. Haynes manual states between 0.0005 and 0.0025. I am having difficulty reading the dial indicator, and can't find the instructions.I am now starting to think 0.0025 is two of the small increments and not what I originally set it to as the photo shows.Any advice appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 It appears your DTI is measuring m.m. I imagine original data is in thousands of an inch. Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkB Posted March 16, 2017 Author Share Posted March 16, 2017 Hi TonyThanks for pointing that out. I need new glasses. Now you have reminded me I do remember setting it up using the Haynes manual measurments of 0.0127 to 0.0635mm. So the DTI appears to read wishing the tolerances but there feels to much side to side movement as apposed to end float. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 As Tony points out, that DTI is metric. Each graduation is 0.01mm, each full turn of the main dial is 1mm and it can manage 10mm total with each full turn being recorded on the smaller dial. The metric specs for end float are 0.0127 - 0.0635 mm. Yours appears to show about 0.24mm so it is way too big. In practice you'll struggle to measure the specified dimensions with any precision due to the difficulty holding everything steady enough to prevent "noise". There are those how say that these bearings should actually have a little pre-load when set from new (not unusual for taper-roller pairs) but this is not what the book says......Presumably the hub nut is torqued up?Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkB Posted March 16, 2017 Author Share Posted March 16, 2017 Thanks for making that clear to me Nick. My 17 year old Nephew just said the same, so when I initially set it I misunderstood the readings. No wonder I could see some play . May need a thinner spacer to active that end float. Thanks again.Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iomgt6 Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 Hi all, just picked up this thread as I'm about to tackle this job, I am converting to CV joints getting rid of the rotoflex, bought the new units off Rimmers and alum vertical links off Canley's with bearings and shims, now spacer washers are now longer available, so I will use the ones removed with the shims, so now my question is do I assemble the hole axle complete with hub with just the spacer in and then check end float by putting a dial indicator on the face of the hub and levering somewhere, then have to strip it all down again to shim, is this the correct plan, thanks in advance of any help received, Paul, oh car mk3 GT6 1971. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogsbody47uk Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 Canley Classics Technical Archive tells you how to set up the bearing clearances, and spacers are available from a guy in Yorkshire, whose name I have forgotten! Found him. RB Mobile classics, Richard on 0776 354449. Cheers, Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogsbody47uk Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 If you search ebay for rotoflex bearing shim, you'll find his stuff ( about 5 different sizes of shims) Cheers, Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 just done this on a cv ex rotaflex a few assemble and strip with a selection of ebay spacers and soon found the effect of a 0.003" shim would take you from pre load to some drum rock took about 6 attempts , always knock the hub back after a trial fit to induce some end float or it just stays where last pressed. do torque the hut each time , a nip will not give you a result once happy , greased up and fitted oil seal torque nut we had a very small rock on the drum, i was pre load that killed the original fitting , do make sure any feeling of float is not from the CV spherical and spider any movement here can be misconstrued as end float if you grip the shaft in a vice and look for float just grip the boot diameter or whatever the advantage of CV is you need a spring lifter but youre not having to fight the tension of the doughnut, so refitting is relatively easier . took a lot of trial and fiddle but not a bad job a thin ended 3 legged puller is useful as you have the inner race left on when you strip the hub. chop the oil seal off aids a gap you may lever it of , or use a sandwich type of puller to get under the race inner ring. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daver clasper Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 Phew. Glad there is an advantage for the Mk 1. Cheers, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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