Ian Perry Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 After the much-lamented demise of the Toledo's original engine on the RBRR, I am currently planning to buy a S/H engine and put that in* - but of course that could have been standing for a while, could have had the same oil for 30k miles, could be full of gunk or simply bone-dry... So, would it be a good idea to chuck some flushing oil through it, or chuck some thin-ish "normal" oil in, run it for a short while and then drop it back out, or just put some good quality multigrade straight in? Are there any other things that the assembled brains would recommend before starting it for the first time, or after running it for a short while? *SpitBitz have quoted me £225 for an engine (I assume MkIV) in "good serviceable condition" - with 28 days approval/warranty so long enough to get it clean, in, running, check compression and oil pressure etc. - and take it back if not happy. I assume it'll come with no ancillaries, but obviously all those can transfer over from the dead one, along with the sump (Spitfire and Toledo have the "well" at opposite ends). VMTIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 13, 2018 Share Posted October 13, 2018 Ifit is a spit engine you will be swapping sumps anyway. So a good clean out then. Once fitted I would use some cheap oil for a short time (enough to confirm the engine is OK etc) then drain, fit a new filter and decent oil. If it is a dolly engine, I think I would still be tempted to drop the sump and clean it out, for the sake of an hours work and a gasket. Usually a good bit of gunge lurking.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Perry Posted October 13, 2018 Author Share Posted October 13, 2018 Thanks, Clive. Considering the horrors in the bottom of the sump pan when I took it off (this despite it having had two oil changes in my ownership, and not counting the fragmented big end and piston skirt), I think that dropping the sump off is a good call on any engine. Is there a particular good reason not to try a flushing oil? I would expect there to be a fair risk of gunged-up oilways and drillings, and a flushing oil should help clean that all out. And I already have some :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 And while you're at it, I'd consider removing the frost plugs and giving the cooling system a good clean out. Again easily done with motor out. Frost plugs are cheap. 😲 Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 Given the terms of sale, I'm going to be a bit contrary. I totally agree with Clive on the "good clean out" while the sump's off but then I would stick in the cheapest oil you can find and fire it up. Drive for maybe fifty miles, assess the noises and smells. If all is good, think about whipping it back out for a proper clean out of the cooling system, new core plugs, oil flush and so on. If the initial test gives you the heeby-jeebies about its condition, send it back without spending your time and money on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 Cheap oil, sump off and clean, new filter and take out the dizzy drive and pump some oil round the engine with an electric drill and a long screwdriver bit in the oil pump drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicmk1est Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 which way do you turn the oil driveshaft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Perry Posted October 14, 2018 Author Share Posted October 14, 2018 Thanks all. I like the idea of thin cheap oil and a run up/about, then if the augurs are good a more comprehensive clean. I have a lot of (I think) 5W40, decent quality but I have lots of it (the hillclimb car uses it) so I wouldn't mind sticking a bucket of that in and chucking it away afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 Quoted from nicmk1est- which way do you turn the oil driveshaft? Anti-clockwise, same as the direction that the distributor turns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efp Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 I was in a similar position, though probably worse as my engine has been sitting in a crate for 30+years In my case some of the oil has deteriorated to the point of clagging up in places to a waxy consistency that took some removing, and fearful of blocked oilways I asked the same question. One suggestion was to make a first fill of 50-50 light oil and diesel, pump it throughout with the drill down the distributor hole, leave to soak, repeat, etc etc. Did this over a few days,, then obviously drained it thoroughly Seems to have worked. Might be overkill for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 The suggestion to take out the core plugs and clean out the waterways is good advice, amazing how much the waterways get bunged up with muck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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