Clutch replacement

[Sideways Tim]

I'm about to replace the clutch in the spit ('72 MKIV). I have a Borg and Beck kit, all the tools and manpower needed but just wanted to get any advise from those who have gone before to make it as easy as possible.

What tips and tricks have you to impart?
Anything else worth doing while the gearbox is off?

Many thanks!

p.s. just booked the ferry and accoms for Classic Le Mans 2012 - so there's a deadline ;)

[Fizzy]

cant think of any specific tips, its all as simple as it looks, if a bit unwieldy. change the oil unless you done it recently i guess. check the bolt at the bottom of the bellhousing going into the box has a copper washer on it to stop leaks. again if its dry, probably best to leave it. cut a door in the side of your tunnel so you can top the oil up from the inside only having to peel up a bit of carpet ? maybe the gear change bushes if you have a wobbly gearstick. change can be done without removing the seat, just push it back and put a heavy duty rag on it, like a bath towel  ;D i find taking the passenger side glovebox out is a lot more useful than taking the chair out.

[Sideways Tim]

Brill - that sounds like I hoped it would. Cheers!

[drofgum]

Tim,
Not so much for the clutch work as for future, you might also want to cut an access panel for the slave cylinder into the tunnel. Alternatively a remote bleeder line could be installed at this time.
                                                                                   Cheers,
                                                                                   Paul

[Sideways Tim]

Well, I'm in progress!

Removed the cover and first thought was "What's that doing there?"

Any clues?



I'm talking about the 6mm hex key that's sticking out and waggling about!

[Fizzy]

:-/

[firebobby]

Giggle pin :-/

[Sideways Tim]

Well, the whole gearbox is dripping with oil, but it doesn't smell like EP90 - I'm guessing it's been coming out of the crankshaft seal for a while maybe. Doesn't seem to use much engine oil though. We'll see once the box is off.



The gearbox mounts need replacing - any recommendations?



Another 'what's this' - the pin sticking up?



and finally (for now), do you think the slave cyclinder needs a new seal?



:)

[Sideways Tim]

Gah. I'm beat. Can't get the bellhousing away from the engine. I've joggled, jiggled, wiggled and waggled, levered, pryed and hit it with a lump hammer and the damn things still won't part.

What am I doing wrong?

[aar0sc]

Have you unbolted it?  :P

[Sideways Tim]

Ha ha! Every bolt came out nicely, everything is disconnected, it should just fall apart now, but it won't budge :(

[junkuser]

"The gearbox mounts need replacing - any recommendations?"
Thought I'd try firmer mounts and had these in the "junk".
Seem to work well.
Just a possibility.
They are standard industrial mounts.

[firebobby]

Tim, have you raised  the box slightly when trying to remove it, some times they do jam on,so will take a good wiggle to remove :-/

[Sideways Tim]

The only thing I've not tried is jacking up the box. Will give that a go tomorrow. Ta.

[Fizzy]

you've dropped the propshaft yeah ? box wont come out with the propshaft still in the way

[Sideways Tim]

I've disconnected the prop from the box, but it hasn't really dropped much. I decided last night that I'll take it off completely.

Am I right in thinking you should only need to disconnect it at the front though?

[drofgum]

Tim,
Though I have done clutches by dropping only the front of the propshaft; I find it easier to do with the shaft out completely as you do get more room.
                                                                               Cheers,
                                                                               Paul

[Sideways Tim]

It's out! Dropped the exhaust and propshaft off (found a leak in the exhaust that I didn't know about too, so that was nice).
Thanks Paul, and specially Firebobby - jacked up the front of the 'box and it slid out nicely. All on my own too :)

Some issues though.

This is the clutch release pin, that it pivots around.



It's not actually connected at all!



Found out what was on the other end of the giggle pin!



Looks a little oily inside the bell housing, but the clutch itself is dry.





Time for a quick clean up of the exterior. I'm not doing anything to the 'box as it was behaving nicely before I took it off. New mounts, clutch, slave cylinder seals, make some windows for fluids and bleeding and we're good to go.

If anyone can see anything that looks awry, please shout :)

Cheers,

Tim.

[Sideways Tim]

Slave cylinder, yuck!


Get the guts out with a poke from a spoke...


Does this metal seal head come in a re-build kit or do I need to try and salvage it? It's a bit bent and battered.

[nang]

For the price of a new cylinder, I'd replace it if it looked like that !
Wouldn't want to have to take that gearbox again. :D
Tony

[Rumpith]

Change the clutch release bearing too, cheap part, might as well do it while the gearbox is out...

[firebobby]

Tim, good advise from Rumpith and Nang, also check the pivot pin that holds the release bearing arm in ( the one that's hanging out) and make sure it's not bent. On a diagram of this area, there is also a Tolerance ring shown,this sits inside the arm. The pivot pin goes through the ring and located back into the bottom of the housing casement.
That pin should not have been sat out like that :-/

[Sideways Tim]

The cylinder has cleaned up nicely, the bore is good, no scoring or wear. I'd rather re-use than replace.

Full clutch kit going in.

I'll be having a light paring of the under dash wiring too now there's access. The P.O wasn't much of an electrician it seems!

[Sideways Tim]

I'll certainly be checking that pin and ring for a good fit. How long it's been like that I hate to think.

Thanks for the advise folks, keep it coming :)

[Mikeyvitesse]

I'd check the state of the front gearbox oil seal - if oil leaks into the bellhousing it could get on the clutch and cause judder. Worth checking where your oil leak has come from and curing if poss as you don't want oil on that nice new clutch. I had an oil leak that caused some unpleasant judder and the clutch plate was dry, though slightly blackened, I'm guessing from the oil getting burnt off.