Sideways Tim Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 I'm about to replace the clutch in the spit ('72 MKIV). I have a Borg and Beck kit, all the tools and manpower needed but just wanted to get any advise from those who have gone before to make it as easy as possible.What tips and tricks have you to impart? Anything else worth doing while the gearbox is off?Many thanks!p.s. just booked the ferry and accoms for Classic Le Mans 2012 - so there's a deadline ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fizzy Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 cant think of any specific tips, its all as simple as it looks, if a bit unwieldy. change the oil unless you done it recently i guess. check the bolt at the bottom of the bellhousing going into the box has a copper washer on it to stop leaks. again if its dry, probably best to leave it. cut a door in the side of your tunnel so you can top the oil up from the inside only having to peel up a bit of carpet ? maybe the gear change bushes if you have a wobbly gearstick. change can be done without removing the seat, just push it back and put a heavy duty rag on it, like a bath towel ;D i find taking the passenger side glovebox out is a lot more useful than taking the chair out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Tim Posted January 13, 2012 Author Share Posted January 13, 2012 Brill - that sounds like I hoped it would. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drofgum Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Tim,Not so much for the clutch work as for future, you might also want to cut an access panel for the slave cylinder into the tunnel. Alternatively a remote bleeder line could be installed at this time. Cheers, Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Tim Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 Well, I'm in progress!Removed the cover and first thought was "What's that doing there?"Any clues?I'm talking about the 6mm hex key that's sticking out and waggling about! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fizzy Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebobby Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Giggle pin :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Tim Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 Well, the whole gearbox is dripping with oil, but it doesn't smell like EP90 - I'm guessing it's been coming out of the crankshaft seal for a while maybe. Doesn't seem to use much engine oil though. We'll see once the box is off.The gearbox mounts need replacing - any recommendations?Another 'what's this' - the pin sticking up?and finally (for now), do you think the slave cyclinder needs a new seal?:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Tim Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 Gah. I'm beat. Can't get the bellhousing away from the engine. I've joggled, jiggled, wiggled and waggled, levered, pryed and hit it with a lump hammer and the damn things still won't part.What am I doing wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aar0sc Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Have you unbolted it? :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Tim Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 Ha ha! Every bolt came out nicely, everything is disconnected, it should just fall apart now, but it won't budge :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 "The gearbox mounts need replacing - any recommendations?"Thought I'd try firmer mounts and had these in the "junk".Seem to work well.Just a possibility.They are standard industrial mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebobby Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Tim, have you raised the box slightly when trying to remove it, some times they do jam on,so will take a good wiggle to remove :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Tim Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 The only thing I've not tried is jacking up the box. Will give that a go tomorrow. Ta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fizzy Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 you've dropped the propshaft yeah ? box wont come out with the propshaft still in the way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Tim Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 I've disconnected the prop from the box, but it hasn't really dropped much. I decided last night that I'll take it off completely. Am I right in thinking you should only need to disconnect it at the front though? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drofgum Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 Tim,Though I have done clutches by dropping only the front of the propshaft; I find it easier to do with the shaft out completely as you do get more room. Cheers, Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Tim Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 It's out! Dropped the exhaust and propshaft off (found a leak in the exhaust that I didn't know about too, so that was nice).Thanks Paul, and specially Firebobby - jacked up the front of the 'box and it slid out nicely. All on my own too :)Some issues though.This is the clutch release pin, that it pivots around.It's not actually connected at all!Found out what was on the other end of the giggle pin!Looks a little oily inside the bell housing, but the clutch itself is dry.Time for a quick clean up of the exterior. I'm not doing anything to the 'box as it was behaving nicely before I took it off. New mounts, clutch, slave cylinder seals, make some windows for fluids and bleeding and we're good to go.If anyone can see anything that looks awry, please shout :)Cheers,Tim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Tim Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 Slave cylinder, yuck!Get the guts out with a poke from a spoke...Does this metal seal head come in a re-build kit or do I need to try and salvage it? It's a bit bent and battered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 For the price of a new cylinder, I'd replace it if it looked like that !Wouldn't want to have to take that gearbox again. :DTony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumpith Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 Change the clutch release bearing too, cheap part, might as well do it while the gearbox is out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebobby Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 Tim, good advise from Rumpith and Nang, also check the pivot pin that holds the release bearing arm in ( the one that's hanging out) and make sure it's not bent. On a diagram of this area, there is also a Tolerance ring shown,this sits inside the arm. The pivot pin goes through the ring and located back into the bottom of the housing casement.That pin should not have been sat out like that :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Tim Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 The cylinder has cleaned up nicely, the bore is good, no scoring or wear. I'd rather re-use than replace.Full clutch kit going in.I'll be having a light paring of the under dash wiring too now there's access. The P.O wasn't much of an electrician it seems! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Tim Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 I'll certainly be checking that pin and ring for a good fit. How long it's been like that I hate to think.Thanks for the advise folks, keep it coming :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikeyvitesse Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 I'd check the state of the front gearbox oil seal - if oil leaks into the bellhousing it could get on the clutch and cause judder. Worth checking where your oil leak has come from and curing if poss as you don't want oil on that nice new clutch. I had an oil leak that caused some unpleasant judder and the clutch plate was dry, though slightly blackened, I'm guessing from the oil getting burnt off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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