Sideways Tim Posted January 21, 2012 Author Share Posted January 21, 2012 It's all apart now. Crankshaft oil seal is lovely and dry. I'll be re-gasketing the box to bell housing, but the clutch plate was just down to the rivets. Perfect timing I think.Refurbed the master cylinder today, it's all going to be lovely when it goes back in :)New spigot bush, clutch pedal pivots and box mounts and it'll be good as new :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Note that some of the bell->gearbox bolts go through to the oil and should have copper washers on. Will leak if not fitted.You can use a long bolt instead of that silly pivot pin (5/16" UNF IIRC). The unthreaded part needs to be long enough to go most of the way through and sit in the bushes. Then the little monkey can't fall out at an inopportune moment......Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Tim Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 Thanks Nick. The pin is a great fit, the retaining ring was goosed though. It'll go back together nicely. I'll check all the bolts and seal accordingly.Cheers!Oh, I decided to paint the bell housing while it was off, red will make it much faster I reckon :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodders1 Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Nick_Jones wrote:You can use a long bolt instead of that silly pivot pin (5/16" UNF IIRC). The unthreaded part needs to be long enough to go most of the way through and sit in the bushes. Then the little monkey can't fall out at an inopportune moment......The bolt solution is, at best, a get you home measure. You should really replace the following parts:129410 - Pivot Pin129412 - Tolerance ring129358 - Bronze bush (x 2)When I got my Spitfire it had a bolt through the release arm pivot and very poor clutch adjustment. The biting point was almost on the floor, mainly due to lost motion in the worn clutch components. Fitting the part listed above and a new clevis pin at the pedal/master cylinder resulted in a significantly improved clutch feel.Canleys do a modified pivot pin design which includes a circlip to stop it falling out when the bushes and tolerance ring get worn.While you've got everything apart, for the sake of £10 or so, I'd prefer to fit the correct parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodders1 Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 2356 wrote:Oh, I decided to paint the bell housing while it was off, red will make it much faster I reckon :)Paint it pink and give the MOT tester a good laugh :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Tim Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 I've replaced the temperance ring, the bushes and the pin weren't worn at all (makes me wonder if during a past release bearing replacement, the pin was forgotten about?) All is nice and snug now, so I'm happy it'll give a few years of service at least.The paint is quite a loud shade, it'll certainly brighten someones day when they're underneath :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Paterson Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 [center][/center]An important and oft missed tip is that the first bolt you should nip up between the bell housing and the backplate is the special Dowel bolt - which goes in the hole at the bottom on the offside.This ensures alignment is perfect and helps prevent the centre of the driven plate separating after a few thousand miles.I've thrown this tip into many clutch tip discussions and it rarely generates a response - does everyone just know this already (I didn't but luckily Chic Doig gave me a well timed lecture when I was buying the bits) ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roddymacp Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 bodders1 wrote:The bolt solution is, at best, a get you home measure. You should really replace the following parts:129410 - Pivot Pin129412 - Tolerance ring129358 - Bronze bush (x 2)When I got my Spitfire it had a bolt through the release arm pivot and very poor clutch adjustment. The biting point was almost on the floor, mainly due to lost motion in the worn clutch components. Fitting the part listed above and a new clevis pin at the pedal/master cylinder resulted in a significantly improved clutch feel.Canleys do a modified pivot pin design which includes a circlip to stop it falling out when the bushes and tolerance ring get worn.While you've got everything apart, for the sake of £10 or so, I'd prefer to fit the correct parts.This sounds like my clutch. Possibly 1/3 of travel does nothing then seems to activate the clutch with it biting near the floor. Must have a look but don't fancy stripping all the tunnel out again. Can check clevis pins though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Tim Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 Doug_P wrote:[center] [/center] An important and oft missed tip is that the first bolt you should nip up between the bell housing and the backplate is the special Dowel bolt - which goes in the hole at the bottom on the offside.This ensures alignment is perfect and helps prevent the centre of the driven plate separating after a few thousand miles.I've thrown this tip into many clutch tip discussions and it rarely generates a response - does everyone just know this already (I didn't but luckily Chic Doig gave me a well timed lecture when I was buying the bits) ;DThanks Doug - I'll kep an eye on that.Tim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Tim Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Well, the clean and refurb has ended - time to re-install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Paterson Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 As you split the bell housing from the box (presumably) best check you used the copper washer on the lowest of the bolts. If not it will leak as that bolt goes straight through below the oil level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Tim Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Copper washer, thread seal and a bit of PTFE tape too. New gaskets all round, hoping for zero oil loss from the gearbox.I said hoping... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Paterson Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Lol - good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Tim Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 One can but try, and hope :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodders1 Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 2356 wrote:Well, the clean and refurb has ended - time to re-install.Ooo - shiny :-)Do you fancy doing mine as well? It is leaking oil from the front of the gearbox. Either the mainshaft seal has failed, or I didn't put the copper washer(s) in the right places when I put it back together 10 years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Tim Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 It's easy enough to strip. Just clean it all up, then go belt and braces on all possible escape routes. I've used liquid gasket on both sides of the paper gaskets and both liquid and tape thread seals on anything with an oil path.Proof of the pudding though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Tim Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Doug, this dowel bolt. Is it different in appearance than all the others? Looking at my picture above, is it the hole on the left of the gearbox at the bottom or the right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sideways Tim Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Right then. New clutch in, gearbox back on, all went smoothly once I jacked the engine up a bit, dowel bolt in first, then worked my way around the bell housing, however I couldn't find a torque spec for the bell housing to back plate bolts in the Haynes manual.Anybody know what it is?Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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