Cam timing/chain replacment

[philheys100]

Hi all,

I have been running a previous thread called 'chain replacement' and under further inspection I also need to change the sprockets cam & crank, I am going need your help to do this.

I understand that I need the following;

Piston stop - my engine is in the car with the cylinder head on.

Degree wheel -

Dial indicator -

Can anyone guide me were I can buy these from and step by step information on how to or even better videos.

Many thanks
Phil

[RobPearce]

As has been mentioned elsewhere, while it is possible to set the cam timing with the head on, it's much easier with it removed. You then don't need the specialised equipment nearly as much.

Set crank to TDC: Although a dial gauge is required to do this really properly, you can normally manage by temporarily refitting the timing cover and front pulley, then lining up the timing marks. With the head off, you will be able to swing the crank a bit either way and confirm that the pistons stay at the top. If you don't trust your timing marks, put a thin washer on the piston and, approaching TDC from each side in turn, rotate the crank until that washer contacts a straight edge placed across the block. Mark each position on the pulley (use the timing pointer for reference). TDC is exactly half way between these marks.

Set cam to position: You will need to set the valves on No. 4 to balance. Cam followers in and adjustable push-rods (a.k.a. length of studding with nuts on). First set the cam 180 out so that both valves are truly fully closed. Put a spirit level across the two "push-rods" and adjust their lengths to get the level on the level. Now rotate the cam to the rock position and adjust until it's level again.

From there, it's mostly a matter of being careful not to rotate anything as you line it up. You will have a "dummy starter" to lock the crank - you really will because you're going to need that to refit the front pulley nut - so use it. The cam is trickier but you should be able to assess the alignment of the cam wheel without actually touching it.

This method has worked for me several times. It's not as precise as the expensive solutions but it WILL get you within the 3 or 4 degrees tolerance that the factory felt was sufficient.

[thescrapman]

Phil

It may be worthwhile fitting duplex gears and chain. they don't wear much at all.

Cheers

[philheys100]

Thanks guys,

Found this is it accurate?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MHO0D9VpsQs

I am struggling to find a degree wheel most of them seem to be from America, I don't mind spending a bit more for a quality one and I believe bigger is better.

Thanks

[Tim Bancroft]

Moss sell one as do most tuning part suppliers.

I think one can download one from the net and stick on a piece of paper.

[DanM]

just download and print a degree wheel you can scale it as required on the computer, laminate it if you can

[philheys100]

Thanks guys

I have looked at Moss no degree wheel only available in America, I have managed to find a dial indicator will this do the job?

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dial-.....07TE10-/120985547302

Also the piston stop is also difficult to get hold of, again empty in America the ones over here state for chain saws, strimmer etc.

Anyone help!

Thanks

[Velocita Rosso]

Quoted from thescrapman

Phil
worthwhile fitting duplex gears and chain. they don't wear much at all.

Cheers

Thats what we did with vernier adjustment gear
Then we printed off the timing wheel as suggested

[efp]

Pm sent Phil