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Oggi

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I am changing the sump gasket on the 1200, can anyone confirm the torque settings for the bolts? The old haynes I have states 16 - 18 Lb/ft.

And does anyone have any tips on this job with the engine in the car?

Many Thanks in advance

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Einar wrote:
I've given a brief description when doing the job on my Vitesse: http://vitesse.no/Garage%202008-2009.html


Einar, thanks for the link, do you know if I will have to lift a 1200 a little as you did with the vitesse?

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Richard_B wrote:
By very careful when tightening the front and rear bolts where they go into aluminium.


That is whats worrying me hence why I am trying to get the torque figures confirmed before starting the job, as we all know Haynes are not always 100%

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16-18 lbs/ft in the other workshop manual I have for Vitesse/ Herald:

www.vitessesteve.co.uk/PDF/Herald,Spitfire,Vitesse.pdf   Page 23

I did this job on my Vitesse in February....not the easiest but happy I did it...thanks to Einar's help!  If the sump looks clear from underneath...ie: no chassis members or other bit in the way then it'll be a doddle. I think you should be fine if memory serves me well.

Was also cautious with the front sealing bridge bolts too, but all ok with those torque setting and also found them the same length as all the others....

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Just done mine,on a 1500 the sump just dropped out with a wiggle
Just remember to remove the dip stick !
I had to sort out the front alloy block as I had a leak.
I now have no bolts in the back alloy block as the thread in that are knackerd !
Fingers crossed for no leaks

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Steve_Curton wrote:
Other may disagree but I always use gasket sealant on the sump gasket as they don't always mate very well, and who wants an oil leak if they can be avoided - even on a Triumph.


Definately, I smeared blue hylomar on mine. Used it to stick the gasket down on the sump then added more on the top side before offering it up......... Even though it's all back on and I used that...I've got some seepage at the front already....  :(....but I guess that's par for the course with these motors

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Thanks for the responses guys. I was wondering if it should go on dry but I will use Hymol, and I was also planning of making use of the card that the gasket came on for the bolts so they don't get mixed up.

Dave good point on the dipstick I would never have even thought about it.

Mazfg thanks for the link thats one to download and save.

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most sumps dont fit well after first fitment as the boults have made the metal around the hole stick up a bit,and definatly after a few fitments so  that then leaves the flat strait bit  from boult hole to boult hole lower and gasket dose not mate tidy to block face, get a flat bit of steel and hold under the boult holes and hammer them back down flat with the rest of the pan, a steel rule is good for seeing if it is flat againe no need for sealer then and gasket is mateing tidy with the block

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Just a quick thankyou to all those that offered advice, the job went smoothly all apart from 1 b****r of a bolt that sits right above the cross member, that was a pain in the a*s

Still got plenty of other bits to do but when a job goes well it helps motivate to get on with the rest + I saved 2 evenings beer tokens as well now thats a bonus!

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