Clive
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Everything posted by Clive
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Keep it clean! double check everything (torques etc) at least 3 times. And check for tight spots as you go. There, that was helpful wasn't it! BTW the local engineering shop uses gear oil as assembly lube. Maybe because it withstand higher pressures? Oh, and before startup spin he oilpump with a drill to get oil pressure up. And don't let the engine idle for the first 10 (or is it 20) minutes, keep it at 2000rpm.ish.
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Which car? thinking about it all the herald ones are a nightmare, and expensive if replaced with new. Refinishing may well be rather difficult as they are made of mazak or whatever it is called.
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80/90 gl4 is ideal. Been using the comma version for 20 years in all my Triumphs. Or any 80 or 90 gl4 stuff. Avoid GL5 and all will be well with the world.
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the thinner anti roll bar is also fitted to earlier GT6's and all heralds and early spitfires.
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A decent 20 50 or 15 50 motor oil. For normal motoring, comma sonic is good value. If you drive the car hard and so on, valvoline VR1, millers css 20 50 or even penrite oil.
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A decent 20 50 or 15 50 motor oil. For normal motoring, comma sonic is good value. If you drive the car hard and so on, valvoline VR1, millers css 20 50 or even penrite oil.
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that was the idea, so it is perfectly feasible. Only downside is the tank would need to come out to replace the fuel pump, but in all reality they are extremely reliable. I know nobody who has ever had to replace one.
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Oh "just down the road" from Goody.
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I am planning on an in-tank pump. No reason to be difficult. I am using a golf IV pump, I "think" it will be just long enough to touch the bottom of the tank when fitted. A bit of slat steel plate has been made up with the correct sized hole for the pump, and this will need fitting to the top of the tank, cutting off the flange at the same time. I think it may be tack welded then soldered to avoid distortion of the plate, but will cross that bridge later. In tank pump is neat, and hopefully a simpler and quieter solution. I know Mike Bestard used a freelander pump in his GT6 convertible and he reckoned it would run the tank totally dry if you needed to. I avoided the freelander pump as it has a built in fuel regulator (the one I saw did at least) and my setup has a regulator on the fuel rail I didn't want both.
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I stand corrected! I was suer I looked a few years ago and nothing was available then. Or maybe I just didn't lok hard enough. The seats used to appear at the stafford show, sometimes a few sets. But that was ages ago. Not seen them for a while except in the odd GT6+
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Bradley, search the suppliers over here, quite a few would have come over in the 90's when lots of stuff was re-imported. Also be aware you will probably have to get them recovered, and that means custom jobbies, no kits (as far as I am aware)
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I have used 10mm tap and bolt. From hazy memory the hex head is too bit so I reduced it in size. Cap head bolts would be better. Why they didn't use a coarse thread originally is anybodies guess.
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No, the ones for the seatbelt stalks, buy the propshaft tunnel. The two behind the heelboard are on what could be considered the rear seat pan, near the front edge, either side of the propshaft hump. You also need to undo the radius arms, either in the wheelarch area or the two seen in the pic above.
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I bet you have missed some bolts! Seatbelt mounts go through to the chassis. plus some under the bitumen just behind the heel board, about 12" either side of the centreline of the car. Need to chip the bitumen away and all is revealed, they are visible as a small lump before you try getting all the bitumen off. plus a pair on top of the spring hump, covered by grommets (easy to get them though)
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Number one rule. Replace the sills before taking the body off the chassis. OK, it can be done after, but best to stop it deforming ASAP.
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Need a volunteer?
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Welcome! My first bit of advice is to get along to a local Triumph meeting. Don't wait until the car is finished, you need to get involved BEFORE starting stuff. It WILL save you a ot of grief and heartache, not to mention cash. Take lots of pictures and notes, store stuff labelled and keep it is sub-assemblies as much as possible. Check here before buying stuff, much of what is out there is pants quality, and some people in the trade are rather better than others. It may be worth getting the car running before stripping the engine, looks like it has had money spent on it in places already, 4 branch manifold and single box sports exhaust, so that will save you money. It may have had the engine overhauled or replaced too, so don't jump the gun! A compression check at least will tell you if the piston rings/valves etc are OK, and a sump off inspection will let you know how the crank etc is, maybe a set of bearings and good to go :) Sounds like you have ample budget, so this will be an interesting rebuild. But do get local support. Put your location in you "signature" as it helps with people knowing who is local when you need help ;)
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I very much doubt you will get new wheels, but a good set blasted and painted/powdercoated should be as good as. From what you are implying, you want original type tyres. I know somebody who got some recently, an original pattern dunlop or goodyear (memory fade on that point) BUT cost £800 a set for 155/13's. Ouch. They were radials BTW, not crossplies. Otherwise there are plenty of 145/80 155/80 tyres about, not expensive either. Recently got a set of toyo's for £100 (self-fitted)
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Sorry, fresh out of conveyor belts ;D But you have a fair point, there must be other sources of decent material about. Need to get lucky and see what I spot at skool....... (Or have a look at Bills site)
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Maybe somebody should invest in them :) however, they may be a slow seller as they cannot be seen, so may not appeal to many people. I will investigate the originals. Any pointers?
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Not sure if these are available, but rather than the rubber washers are there poly body mounts sold by anybody? or a suitable alternative? I don't seem to be able to find any :B
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Hmm, surely he can report it lost to the courier/rm and get the insurance? That should cover it, hopefully. Saying that, no proof of postage sounds worrying
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I was thinking of the entire rear seat support in 1" box, the existing u channel is pretty flimsy. Plus where the tubes are use box section, the vertical uprights in 2x1 box and with bracing legs added. All moot now, it never happened. Wouldn't have been easy either, clearance very tight.
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As Bill says, 2 lapbelts is the obvious route. Used that in our vitesse for several years, inititially with childseats, later booster seats. Saying that, the actual seat base was removed and a couple of layers of rubber underlay used with black carpet on top. Got the kids down a bit lower as it is very blowy in them (especially on long fast journeys, regularly at motorway+ speeds. There have been frames built to give strength across the top of the rear seats, but not sure about them really. I considered rebuilding th erear seat frame in 1" box with diagonal braces at the sides behind the trim panels, but it never actually happened.
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thought the usual thing was a HIF44 from a metro. Should have the linkage etc. On my herald I ran a single HS4, that was pretty easy, few bits of metal bent to shape and it was good to go.