Clive
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Everything posted by Clive
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It is important to understand the amount of effort required to get most fibreglass bonnets looking half decent too. They are not a straightforward fit, usually requiring all fittings (eg the bonnet cone panels, top grille section etc) to be transferred from a steel one. No holes are precut (not a huge issue, but fibreglass eats jigsaw blades very very quickly) but the worst part is the rear wing edges are usually curved like a banana and take a lot of faffing and glassing to get correct. Not impossible, but catches many people out. Oh, and I had one (bought secondhand but unfitted, no holes cut etc) which was about an inch shorter and narrower than the steel one!! Got it sorted in the end.....
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Don't jest. There was a story about a bloke who had the idea and made a joddler using a pair of mole grips. He lent it out, and a few months later somebody else took a patent out on the idea. Coincidence? but it is possible to make your own. The real gem is the hole punch though.
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Yep, free delivery. But it can be a pain to wait in for a delivery, especially when the branch is a mile from your front door. Pop in a when I have a moment, doesn't screw my day up :) And being honest, not sure how I would trust a courier to keep a battery upright. Must work though. Mostly.
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I like the 063 battery. available cheaply http://www.eurocarparts.com/car-parts?gclid=CMGE-_mt6rICFSTHtAodkTYAng bosch 4yr one for £36 and local usually. (must buy via website and collect later) They also sell VR1 oil for about £20 so worth a visit! That battery, and the 065 etc will have the terminals nearest the bulkhead, but neg still on the outside so leads fit. May well need longer battery J bolts though.
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that one I linked to is a tama one (at least the photo is!) which is what I have owned for 20 years. Sadly I lost the spring ages ago, but still functions extremely well.
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If you are serious about doing some of the welding you may as well do it all. Sills are OK to do once you get your head around how they fit together and so on. I would really recommend avoiding the small SIP machines, and if buying new a small clarke, very good, and really better than the 150A version I got (lowest setting can still be a bit vicious, a 130 or less would have been better, I used a 90A one for about 10 years, brilliant) I also use gasless mig. Wire more expensive but no gas to buy, so about same running costs or cheaper. But good outside as wind blows the gas away very easily. Not quite as neat as gas mig, but can be very hard to tell. It often looks messy until wire brushed as it gets coated in a brown/white residue from the flux core. (I presume stick welding is similar?) I would also recommend a hole punch/joddler as it saves all that drilling for the plug welds. Not cheap, but so worthwhile. The joddler can be handy for repair panels too. eg: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Standard-Joddler-Joggler-Edge-Stepping-Tool-/260531537874?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3ca8e3c7d2
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What car? Have a look on fleabay, and search for the car make and 16" wheels. Hopefully something will turn up. Other models (eg base) often have steel rims.
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Afraid I don't know anybody I can recommend in Brighton. However, any half knowledgeable mechanic should find it a straightforward job. if you are happy to go to Seaford (not too far) Kevin Lower is excellent on older cars (and newer stuff) Really a mini/ford chap, but he wouldn't have any issues with an exhaust http://www.uk-local-search.co.uk/business/stafford+road+garage/1505986/
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clutch and brake systems totally separate. To free the clutch with the wheels in the air, best to let the engine warm up (this warms the clutch too, should help) then run the car in 2nd or third gear. Keep the clutch pedal firmly down, but keep blipping the throttle. This is much more gentle, but may take a little while. Re rear brakes, does the handbrake work?? I suspect it is a twin master cylinder thingy, so maybe that needs attention, or rear wheel cylinders seized. I am guessing pretty humid in Florida, may be the cause of sticking.
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I have welded one on a pulley already. One of the triggerwheels jobbies. Could probably do with balancing before fitting, when I get around to it. I was thinking more for everybody else though. teh ones available are either a touch too large or small, so either careful fitting or machining is required. A made to measure would make life a lot easier.
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No rubber on the pulley. At least not on the ones I have here..... Be good if somebody could get a batch of the sheet steel trigger wheels made up, ideally with the opening a snug fit on the pulley
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Tis what triumph specified. That is good enough for me :)
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Halfords definitely keep it, as do wilkinsons I believe and most car spares places. You want either EP90 or 80/90 (80 would do at a pinch) BUT it MUST be GL4 specification (not GL5)
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Isn't the single rail internals into a 3 rail box the thing to do? or something like that. Maybe it is dolly 1850, but IIRC some special parts are required. Papworth is the chappie.....
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Not easily..............
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http://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=12826 may be helpful? read through and I think the chap has what you need??
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you can get 175/70 tyres on. Not ideal, really needs 5J wide (late spit 1500) or wider, but will work. After all, what is 1/2" ;)
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buy new from burlen, but sit down before you get a price! cheapest will be a set of used sprint carbs, make syre you do not swap dashpots and dampers around though. Sprint needles are about right for a 2.5 too.
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Cut them open, new wadding and weld/rivet back together. Sounds easy! Not so in practice. Better off getting a std silencer type setup. The db killer you linked to would work, so would stuffing stainless pan scourers up the exhaust (I jest not, keeping them in is the tricky bit) I would sell the exhaust and get another.......
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063 should fit fine, I have used them on several cars. Excellent value too. Just fit it with the terminals at the rear. May need longer clamp "j " bolts, but would be the same with any bigger battery. http://www.racshop.co.uk/car-battery/product/bosch-s3-car-battery-063.html is about the cheapest for a branded battery (free delivery) Worth letting the engine run in a bit, they are extra tight if reconditioned. Likewise Nick has made good points above. Check the basics first. A tired starter will be a pain and not improve by itself.
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The steering joint just above the rack should have a bit of wire to connect the shaft to the rack. Connects to the pinch bolts at teh top and bottom of the joint. (from memory. Think the rack itself has an earth wire too)
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Canley classics James paddock TD fitchetts (telephone only, no website)
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I picked an avanti maplight up at stafford for a quid! Doesn't help you though. However, I have bought unbranded halogen ones from a local factor for a fiver, not bad, been using then for a few years now. Now Questmead, how do you blag your way into them? appears very much trade only from their website :-/
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Are you allowed electronic ignition like 123 on the race car? I was under the impression that when race cars are running(ie above 3000rpm), the dizzy is always at max advance so the condition isn't too important, they are just set to give 32 degress or whatever and that is good enough. Otherwise the dizzy doctor should be able to set one up for you with a suitable advance curve. Other specialists too.