Clive
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Everything posted by Clive
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I assume you mean idle at 800 (not 8000!) But those figures are fine. I think the range is 40-60psi when running. The idle is not too far off either. Not sure what oil you are using, there are pressure benefits to higher quality oils. If you are concerned (i wouldn't be)
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The 063 battery as fitted to lots of cars will fit well. The terminals are at the back (away from the battery clamp) and all cables connect. You will need longer battery clamp J bolts though. The 075 battery is a bit bigger, and usually a fair bit more expensive, hence my preference for the 063 in the UK they are available from £30 (bosch basic version) http://www.racshop.co.uk/car-battery/product/bosch-s3-car-battery-063.html
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Sorry, but I would want the rear mount dead central. Stuff like that can get critical. I doubt the blue book has much about 3 point harnesses (doubt they are acceptable) but the top mount should be as close to horizontal as possible, and if that isn't possible wrap it over the roll bar (ie the roll bar needs a horizontal bar at an appropriate height) plus as central as possible. You do not want lop-sided forces when it goes pear-shaped.
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MGF, landrover are possibilities for pump. James, you will probably be fine, but I reckon a small bead/olive is a good idea. Just in case.
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I can't see how you can use the original "upper" mounting as it is offset. (3 point harness here) it really needs to be high and central to the seat. And yes, with a decent roll bar as you won't be able to duck easily should you roll the car.
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Yep, the saloon flywheels are much much heavier anyway. But to reduce inertia it needs to be reduced as far from the centre as possible.
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The weight seems to have been removed over a fair bit of the back rather than round the edges (where it would have a greater effect) I would stick to a std flywheel, unless is it a race engine (as in used for racing) On the whole a lighter fly will let the engine rev a little faster, but I suspect that one will see no difference.
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Re in-tank pump, there are many fitted to modern cars that could be suitable. I intend using a Golf one in my spitfire. GT6 tank is fairly shallow, but there is bound to be something suitable. Really needs a flat top to the tank over the lowest point, cut a hole, braze/solder a ring and fit with a gasket. I hope. Cut-off switches very cheap off the bay. I got one for a fiver delivered, can't remember what it was from though. How about this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/mgf-fuel-cut-off-switch-/271030637347?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f1aaf5323
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yep, white wires are ignition controlled 12V. I suspect the pink/white on the ignition switch is just a normal 12V feed, that can be switched on with the ignition off. Nothing to do with the coil.
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http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/category/Fuel_System/Fuel_Hose_Clips,b.html Are the babies, should be available in oz. They really are way better than jubilee types. As a thought, an olive soldered onto the pipe should do the trick. Not sure I would want to use braided hose though, I like to be able to see the rubber, and I am suspicious of braided stuff. Not sure what fuels you have in oz either, but watch out for the correct rated stuff. R9 and R10 I think are the highest rated ones and OK with ethanol-enhanced fuels.
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There is a big upside to the ballasted system. The coil will get approx 8 volts (it should run on 6) when cranking, so will give a nice fat spark when it needs it most. The 12V coil will also get 8V at cranking, so a reduced spark. However, the extra grief can outweigh the advantage, and leccy ingnition usually needs a 12V supply too. Hence the popularity of dumping the ballast resistor/wire.
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Modern cars use rubber in the fuel line, and the fuel filters have a bead on them. I reckon a small flare on the end of the pipe should do the trick with a decent hose clip In fact that is what I intend using. I have also seen people cut small gooves to help the rubber grip the pipe, but not so keen on that idea.
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Spit/herald. Cant remember if that is early or late though, I think there are a couple of variations...........
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Ours is in the post. Honest. :)
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I would be inclined to change spindles, butterflies and jets. Needle valves too if they are ridged. And as above, don't bother with the bushes, if the carb bodies are that worn, get a better set. the carbs with the spiral return springs wear far less than the earlier types, so worth getting those if possible.
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As long as it is definitely the electric type with plastic insulated wires http://www.burtonpower.com/parts-by-brand/brands-j-to-l/kenlowe/kenklm2150.html I can see no reason why extending the wires would be harmful. After all, it is all adjustable, so any change is resistance of wires can easily be taken into account. ie you just turn the knob until the fan comes on at the required water temp. As above though, IF a thin copper tube, do not cut.
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Some cowls have rubber flaps so that air can flow out easier when moving, but shut when the fan is on, best of both worlds :)
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"S2 engine came with a pair of HS6 carbs. Keep the "s" head as a spare, or sell it as they seem to fetch a premium. "unknown" engine with ancillaries, probably
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Doesn't really matter, I thought it was about 110bhp though. What is important is that it has the very soft "caravanner's" grind of cam, and the head is pretty low CR. And smallish valves to boot. I ran one in my vitesse for about 8 years before I fitted a TR6 bottom end (identical except the cam) and a late GT6 head to get better CR. Quicker certainly So the actual engine is pretty irrelevant, they can all be played with to get whatever spec you want, and the parts are not expensive either. Only thing really is the cost a a cam and replacing worn components/machining.
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I am certain there are a few stags with alternative engines down under. Plenty to choose from. How about a lexus V8, not sure how difficult that would be. Bound to be plenty of ford/holden stuff that is cheap too, just find something suitably sized. All this assumes it is difficult to find at a economic cost a triumph engine.......
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id is the chassis. Rest can be replaced.
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EP 80, 90 or 80/90 BUT make sure it is GL4 spec oil.
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FR is 3.63 ratio. (Assuming nobody has swapped CWP after it left the factory) 3.89 are FH KD HC FD 3.27 KC
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no idea at all, just passing on what the company uses. I have always just used clean engine oil, and cam lube if a new cam is fitted (came with the cam)
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Ahem. Fit a better seat. Rover 45 sem to fit (even the rears) and do turn up in levver. I have fitted MGF front seats, £10 a pair. Need to weld bracket extensions to avoid drilling new holes, but very comfy.