Clive
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Everything posted by Clive
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Unusual for a battery to split like that. Could have been a spark igniting the hydrogen :-/ not nice at all. But can happen to any battery. Anyway, my current (get it) battery fav is the 063 supplied by eurocarparts. Bosch 4yr. They have just put the prices up, but I got one via ebay for £40 delivered. Check the website too, they were £35 after the discount code. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330858314711?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 (just checked, £10 cheaper via ebay)
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I have a kit I was give for christmas. Not yet fitted, I need to modify the spotlight housing to give a little extra depth for the back of the HID bulb. But I reckon they could be jolly good and I can't see what regs they will break either. Like you I chose the warmer end of he spectrum, none of this blue light nonsense for me.
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Sadly I suspect that is all going to be history and too difficult to challenge. The type 9 conversion seems to be touted as an easy swap, when in fact it is far from it. I have a "long first" t9 in the spitfire chassis. That was stripped and checked over by my good friend who is magic with gears and things. He also shortened the first motion shaft. As to BGH, NEVER heard anything but praise for them. The moral is, if you want a good T9, buy from them....(but to be fair, most seem OK even after all these years)
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The strips are spotwelded on. And they a nightmare as they trap the crud and rust, as you have found. If you want to remove the strip, drill the spotwelds out. They should be visible, especially after a rub with abrasive. However, there may not be much valance left behind :o
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The strips are spotwelded on. And they a nightmare as they trap the crud and rust, as you have found. If you want to remove the strip, drill the spotwelds out. They should be visible, especially after a rub with abrasive. However, there may not be much valance left behind :o
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John, with the supertrapp more plates = more area for gases to escape, so louder and less backpressure. I think I would want about 20 plates in there...............
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I realise that, but then you may as well use a cherry bomb 8) The discs or rather end cap mean the effective opening is tiny, may as well have a 1" tailpipe (maybe I ought to do the calcs on the actual area)
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I have a supertrapp here. Thought about fitting it, but it looks extremely restrictive. Jury is still out.............. I may try it out at some point, but I am not sure when.
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Marcus, ali is cheaper per kg too. Scrap is about 1/3rd or less the price of copper ;) And yes, copper a better thermal conductor but black paint may be adverse as it acts as in insulator (probably a bigger factor than being a better emitter of heat) However, ali ones are prettier :) and light, or should be. Polo/golf ones weigh about nothing, and are regularly used in kitcars producing up to 200bhp, sometimes more. They are small, and very cheap.
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Ah, but that look is just to attract the girls ( who really don't care! and in reality only gets other boys looking at the car) Absolutely no use if you want to use the car as it should be. Bradley, show them the way and do some driving events. That way you can walk the walk.......... I don't understand the rubbing issues from 6 months ago. Had no problems on my spitfire whatsoever at the front. Just a little arch-rolling at the rear when the car was rather well-laiden on the way to CLM (I too used a scaffold tube rolled between tyre and arch, worked a treat)
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And those tiny fan heaters are pretty useless. I have fitted one in the mini to clear the rear window, gets tepid at best (but does clear the condensation about as fast as the HRW on older cars, so not totally pointless) However, I have always understood that a thermostat controls the water temp, but equally can verify that covering half the rad gets the water up to temp faster. So ferny, if the thermostat is OK, get the tinfoil out and cover the rad. Well, half or so.
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I really wouldn't bother. UNLESS you are unhappy with the feel of the brakes once set up correctly. Not a huge issue to add one later either. herald brakes are good if working correctly, can be awful if not (and a servo won't help either) Make sure you get the correct sized master cylinder (0.65 or 5/8) and not one of the landrover 0.75 bore ones that will make the brake pedal hard and feel dead. and get decent brake pads, asbestos ones are brilliant if you can find them.
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best bet is to find a nos one. I picked a spit 1500 one up at stafford for £15, which should fit a GT6 ok (but it is staying put on my garage shelf!) so keep those eyes peeled. In all honesty ally ones are probably just as likely to pack up as steel ones, the seals and bearings that are used today must be shocking....... May be worth asking Dave if the ally ones are fittred with better stuff, you never know. Also, regular use does seem to prolong their life. Maybe keeps the sealing surfaces cleaner?
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best bet is to find a nos one. I picked a spit 1500 one up at stafford for £15, which should fit a GT6 ok (but it is staying put on my garage shelf!) so keep those eyes peeled. In all honesty ally ones are probably just as likely to pack up as steel ones, the seals and bearings that are used today must be shocking....... May be worth asking Dave if the ally ones are fittred with better stuff, you never know. Also, regular use does seem to prolong their life. Maybe keeps the sealing surfaces cleaner?
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not the stag diff, but GT6 non overdrive is 3.27 and the whole thing will be a straight swap into a vitesse (I ran a few until I got fed up breaking the 3.27, but that was with a 2.5 engine and a gearbox with a very low first gear :B ) Maybe hard to find where you are. However, there is the subaru/datsun diff conversion that would give you a very strong 3.5ratio diff. The conversion started in the christchuch area I believe.
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Hmm, looking again I would agree the valance will require a power tool 8) The stip-discs are awesome but expensive. Angle grinder with wire brush is also very effective, I would probably use that on the valance and end up at bare metal. Rattle can of acid 8 and let him stonechip the thing. Bonnet looks more like small stonechips, probably needs only small area cleaning up and a dab of primer plus a smidge of stopper. Not sure about the rest of the car. BTW which colour has the lady chosen?
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I have used a sip DA, AND MY 3HP COMPRESSOR STRUGGLES. bORROWED A cp VERSION, AND IT COPED WELL. (AND my fingers are too fat, apols for caps lock....) Think leccy DA's are available. Not cheap. But for what you want, I would go hand-sanding. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=DA+sander+v&_sacat=0&_odkw=DA+sander&_osacat=0&_from=R40 Do get some acrylic stopper. Really, it is a revelation...... I got some locally for about £7. Not a big tube, but used about half doing a herald. And I kept finding lots of tiny imperfections as I went along. Got most of them...
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Dave, what are the sprayers doing? Is the prep all down to you? The leccy palm sanders are not great for fine finish work. It really needs to be a DA version if you get one, NOT orbital. Best bet is to do it by hand. Rust chip areas need serious attention, so a fine flap wheel in a grinder, or a wire brush? Get a rattle can or 2 of etch primer too, as that helps kill any rust and "bites" into bare metal. Acid 8 is very good. I would also suggest acrylic stopper (not cellulose as that shrinks far too much) to fill the surface imperfections. Hopefully the sprayers are using a decent 2k primer/filler and flatting?? that will help a lot. If you are flatting, use 600 or finer (I use 800) wet/dry paper, anything coarser will mean the finish will not be great and never shine well. You will be surprised how fast you can flat the car back, a few hours (hopefully) by hand should do it. Plus you find all the bits you want to sort out. My post appears rather rambling...... :B
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My first thought......... check the steering column joint (it joins the column to the rack) they are often sqidgy, replacements last as little as a few months. I strongly recommend the solid UJ versions sold by some suppliers. as to rotoflexes. Proper rubber doughnuts are expensive, the repro ones don't last terribly well if driven at all hard. The labour isn't cheap though, so the canley conversion may be the best option if you are intending to keep the vehicle. (I have the Nick Jones conversion, a bit cheaper but more involved)
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Not sure what type of paint you have used. Clearcoat may be of benefit though, and no real downside. Are you spraying the whole car white? As to filler and holes. Not the best solution, that would be cut out and weld. However, for non-structural stuff and a car that is never going to be a showcar etc, you can use a chopped fibreglass filler.Normal stuff absorbs water, the fibreglass one doesn't and is much stronger. Usually needs a skim of normal filler once the correct shape has been achieved with a coarse file/surform (or in my case a belt sander!) to get the surface smooth and even. Orange peel can be dealt with using 1200-2000 grade wet and dry used with a bar of soap..... filler: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00.....ef=asc_df_B000TAUICQ http://www.halfords.com/webapp.....-1_categoryId_165625 http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like.....dtype=pla&crdt=0 and so on. You get the idea..........
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I would let the engine get good and warm before doing anything else, the heat seems to help free a clutch. Possibly during that time it may be worth using a bit of wood to keep the clutch pedal down, taking the pressure off the clutch too. Then like ferny, I would jack up and then in gear just keep blipping the throttle. A bit more gentle than stamping on the brakes. If you wish the other method is to try starting the car in gear with foot on clutch and brakes.
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I have found an airline is just not enough to release sticky pistons. The pressure (140psi on mine) is inadequate, I reckon a brakeline produces nearer 1000psi, and seem to be far more effective. Even then I have had a few that just refuse to budge, even after all sorts of mad attempts :(
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Ford capri (some) as well. I remember buying one back in 1984 for my first car. £4 IIRC for a halogen.......they were VERY common then.
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Not sure if there is a pressure relief valve that is easy to check? new spring, make sure it is seated properly?? had that on an engine once. Just another thought.
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What oil? when was it changed? If decent oil (I am guessing this is when hot) it could be worn bearings on the crank or the pump (though I have no idea on TR7 pumps, I have never come across a badly worn ohv pump, nothing more than a few scratches) Of course it could be the oil pressure switch playing up? Think I would start with an oilchange and good oil, but dropping the sump and some new bearings and pump investigation would be on the cards in the very near future. On a warm, dry day.....