Clive
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Everything posted by Clive
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apologies. I should have added in the UK. All sorts of odd stuff happened to export models :-/
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there is a front and back. If you can tell which is which well done, but it really doesn't matter :)
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The 1500 style has the extra bits for the linkage. Actually, it may well be the same casing as the 1850 single rail od unit. Others are no use (internals yes, case no)
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I believe the j types are all about the same, a few minor variations. HOWEVER the 1500 od gearbox has a unique (I believe) od housing that bolts to the gear linkage. Besides, you can't bolt s od on the back of a non-od box. It need the mainshaft swapping and adaptor plate. You need (and this will repeat other posts above) OD box with OD attached OD gearstick/switch/wiring OD propshaft OD mounting plate and rubber mount speedo angle drive and different speedo cable Best is to get a complete and known good kit. Honest.
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Clips fit from behind to finished panels.
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deffo NOT self tappers. Clips... http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/gt6mkiiirearquarterandluggagefloortrim.html&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/gt6mkiii.html&category=bodyandfittings&xsl=diagram.xsl http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/gt6mkiiidoorsealandtrimpads.html&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/gt6mkiii.html&category=bodyandfittings&xsl=diagram.xsl and so on. Other retailers available etc
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Wide open throttle, turn over on the starter. Turn over a few times and write down each compression. If something odd, add a teaspoon or 2 of oil to each cylinder in turn, and measure again. That will give a basic diagnostic of piston or valve leaks. Best to take all the plugs out first! (and label the plug leads)
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Colin, he needs the 10 spline plate in 7 1/4 diameter, something Triumph never used/produced. The minor plate is correct BUT there may be issues between different manufacturers. Think 6 cylinder clutches, laycock v B+B. Was the plate actually a GCP103 http://www.canleyclassics.com/searchforapart/?desc=CLUTCH%20PLATE%20SPECIAL%207%201/4%20X%2010%20SPLINE
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Variable weather etc.... but all good. If you need a hand, just ask. Give me a few weeks though, bit snowed under with stuff at the moment :o
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Sounds familiar! Give the outside of the engine a clean, and have somewhere clean to work. Bag up and label stuff as it is removed. This is very important for the conrod and main bearing caps, and they need to be kept the right way round. Bolt assemblies back together when removed. Mark the crank and timing chain sprockets if not already done. Once you have a big pile of bits, start checking the bores for wear/scoring, and the crank too. Many engines respond very well to a refresh with new rings (assuming no undue bore wear and a good hone) and a new set of main/bigends and thrusts, though often an extra 5 or 10 though can be squeezed into the thrusts. Head, if it hasn't been converted to unleaded now may be a good time, or get an exchange one. Camshaft, a few I have taken apart have had worn lobes, I measured with a vernier to confirm and yes, significant wear. Allow for a new timing chain and tensioner, plus a full set of gaskets, at least a payen head gasket and if possible get payen for the others too. Worth the extra few quid. That is just a summary of course :)
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As a thought, how about using HID's in spotlamps. Not sure what the rules are then? but as they would only be used on high beam dazzling others shouldn't be an issue. Saying that an improved dipped is always handy too.....
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Ok, but what about all the spitfires etc. None of those had the bump, and I believe MoT man isn't keen on tubes in tubeless tyres. Looks like we should all be getting new wheels, and that just isn't likely. Besides, I would much rather risk the tyre rolling off the rim than having a tube, they really are nasty when they get holed.
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Typical. The car had tubeless tyres, they can be fitted. In fact ALL spitfire/herald etc wheels are like this, and I wouldn't run tubes in them either. This seems to be a problem with numpty fitters, go elsewhere. Besides, you shouldn't fit tubes to tubeless tyres. They usually have ribs on the inside which can damage the tube, so ask if they have tyres that require tubes! On the other hand, just go elsewhere.
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Ideally timkin. NTN, SKF and others also good. Beware the turkish/polish/chinese ones. Jap stuff usually good though. Ask the seller before purchasing, if they can't be definite, go elsewhere.
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I believe Jez has hit the nail on the head(s) Availability is a big factor, but coil clutches are probably better suited to tractors than cars. The diaphragm type are just better in their action. Saying that decent diaphragm clutches are getting harder to find, and new coil spring ones do turn up fairly regularly at autojumbles. Probably because so many cars have been converted to diaphragm type.
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bead blasting, or possibly vapour?
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I thought that or Gareth. TLD has kept a low profile for ages, wonder what has brought him to the surface?
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Weren't the original lucas 27amp or something similar? Have an add up of what you have on the car. Lights are the big one, if 4x55watts that is 20amps approx, but add heater motor (5amps??) heated rear window (another 5??) plus wipers.... should be OK but not a large margin for a cold,wet dark long run. But in general the old cars are not electricity hungry.
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Don't get me wrong, it is a bit of faff but not too bad at all. Re the flanges I believe you can even re-drill the diff/box flanges, the centres are the same to centralise the join (I have a GT6 diff here that a PO has redrilled to fit the small flanges, it is actually the pcd and bolt size that are different) OD is WELL worth having.
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No. This is further complicated by the mk3 having a small flange on the back of the od unit, though can be swapped with a large one from a vitesse/gt6/spit iv od box. A 1500 spit propshaft will be the correct length. You can swap a flange on the prop instead of the output flange of the od. Or use the spit 3 od prop, but that has small flanges each end ...
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I think MGF are too wide in a convertible, the extra B post section gets in the way. Same will apply to other modern seats, so MX5 etc will be the safest bet. RX7 suitable too.
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Feel free to ask away! That car looks quite tasty, though on the whole in your position it may well be best to go for something standard. Modifications tend to result in further mods and so it goes on. Worthwhile getting any car properly inspected, the cost will be outweighed by peace of mind, and locate a good specialist for when it does need something fixing. (and the obvious question, where are you located?) Plenty of us started with limited knowledge and ability. For some we haven't progressed very much ;D whilst others are now experts. But there are plenty of people such as yourself, who with the support of a local group can undertake a variety of tasks, farming out more complicated work. So, yes, buy a good car, use it and go along to a local group :)
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There was somebody making an adaptor so you can use the delaney heater with the smiths valve. Was a while ago, have a search on here. Or swap to a smiths unit (not as good as the delaney one though)
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If you want a decent used clutch, I have a proper B+B one here that was in my vitesse for a few years, but very little wear. Yours for postage. Otherwise I would see if you can get a NoS ie old b+b or even laycock (may be expensive that last suggestion)
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I was talking to a trader at the weekend about poly engine mounts. He reckoned the cheapest way was to get a rubber type, remove the rubber (sounds like a job for some serious fire!) and then remake with polyurethane. Sounds very plauable to me. Or alternative engine mounts? there must be something half decent out there. I got some new jag e-type oe mounts from one of the traders. Will be using those on the spitty.