Clive
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Everything posted by Clive
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Worth checking you have a spark at the plugs. If not, check you have spark at the coil king lead. Should help narrow it down a bit. If no spark from coil, it is likely to be the coil breaking down. If spark at the coil, not at the plugs, could be rotor arm (good chance especially if it has been replaced recently) dizzy cap, or leads. In fact do not discount the king lead (coil to dizzy) Report back......
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very simple. Undo all the bolts, (once you have undone/removed the output quarter shafts, needs a quality allen key and 3 shredded wheat) Clean the diff inside, scrape and clean old gasket remains off the mating faces. Smear of sealant on both mounting faces. Must be thin though. Gasket in, bolts in and torque up, However leaks here are rare, usually the seals on the input/output shafts that go.
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But buy quality, not "budget" stuff. tyreshopper has some fair priced stuff (national tyres online) and can be a good bartering point when dealing with local sellers. Could get a set for £120, but wouldn't put them on a car. The avon cr322 were a good tyre, used on the caterham racing series as the only tyre they could use. They are available for £160 a set. http://www.valuetyres.co.uk/product.php?utm_source=Tyres-online&utm_medium=comparison&utm_campaign=referral&id=33294 use TY05 for 5% off....
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not at all. The diff in my zetec spit was like that, still is and going into the new build. It is the washers in some part of he diff that set the backlash, but a pain to replace. Not harmful either.
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175/70/13
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7" wide is too much really, the tyres will look stretched and unstable, especially as these old wheels go not have the beads fitted as modern wheels do. If you do go ahead measure the things that could get in your way, arch, shocks, tie rods.
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I remember that. I think they widened the bonnet or tub or something? I have also seen a vitesse V6, that worked well. However, these days you may as well use a more powerful, smaller, more fuel efficient 4 cylinder engine, plenty to choose from :)
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Hang on a moment. I initially ran a 3.27 in my 2.5 vitesse, but after I broke the third one i fitted a 3.63, which lasted with no issues. In fact that diff went into my Zetec spitfire, and is bolted into the chassis of the current project. The 3.27is a bit more relaxed, but not good for longevity if you have a heavy right foot 8)
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thescrapman wrote:Mark You might be better with a 3-rail non-OD Vitesse or Gt6 box. I was talking to Mr Helm senior about this, it is getting the special input shaft made up to go with the 4-cyl that was going to cost. Cheers Colin My gears man sorted a gt6 box into his spit himself. Chopped the input shaft, drilled/pinned and then welded the input shaft from a spit. He also machined some phosphor bronze bearings and generally improved the box. 14 years later still sweet. however, if somebody were to produce a run of shafts it would be more cost effective. Should be stronger too, but the "homemade" version is lasting very well.
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Saw some down at the Mini run in brighton. A std roll (25feet??) was £17 I think. or fleabay http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l2736&_nkw=kunifer+brake+pipe Agree with Alec, 3/8 is way too big for car brakes.
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Definately fit a thermostat. Too cold an oil temp is bad news.
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Pete, I used hammerite many many years ago on my Vitesse callipers (it was OK paint back then) and it lasted really well. ie never got repainted in 15 years. So not convinced you need anything very special. However, there are calliper paint kits about, have a nose though ebay. I know you are a tart so probably want lurid Kawasaki green or Pimp red ;)
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I bought a kit to space my callipers from Canleys. It came with new (longer) bolts and seals, so the bolts/seals are available. Not sure what spec the bolts were, but I didn't notice anything about them, so I suspect they are just high tensile? Canleys should have the stuff you need, and no doubt many other place too. However, I have overhauled several sets of callipers in my time, and the spacing episode was the first time I had split them. I have found compressed air only works if the pistons can move OK anyway, connecting to a master cylinder is rather more effective.
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There was somebody (who rallied a 2000 IIRC) who suffered high underbonnet temps, and he fitted a small 4" fan from a boat i think. He reckoned it helped, so may be a wise idea. After all, when stationary there is nowhere for the heat to go if there is no manual fan stirring up the airflow. And a fan blowing air out the side may just work.
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Read a bit in the TSSC mag where Hugh Glossip wrote an article about vented discs and stuff. He mentioned original TRE's being larger than modern ones. Indeed, this seems to be the case. However, a couple of mm off the back of the hub is a true belt and braces solution :)
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Bradley, I will be testing teh capri/mgf setup when my car is built. However, I suspect bias will need adjusting so the fronts do a little more than the rears. Alternatively use different callipers on the front. I have also picked up that other rover rear callipers may be the same as the mgf ones, but have smaller pistons. That would be handy, but I have not been able to confirm the info.
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Capri discs do fit under 13" wheels, just done it. The subaru conversion should be quite easy once the details have been sorted, it will bolt into the existing chassis, just need shafts etc doing. Fitting MGF brakes to rotoflex uprights not too bad, I made my adapters from 6mm steel. however, all the things you intend doing require a reasonable bit of knowledge/experience. You need to play with cars a fair bit to gain enough of a chance to pull this off.
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Or subaru, though that is all a bit experimental at the moment. I suspect a few definitive answers will be emerging over the next few months though :) Front brakes simple, speak to marcus or GT6s about the xantia discs. However, from what you have said, you have nearly 8 years to get it all on the road, as at 25 insurance will be possible ;)
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veeeeery sloooowly :B on the plus side, the front brakes are looking good now. So it is just to fit the tub, bonnet, engine, electrics and lots of other stuff. And did I mention a respray? got the paint though :) maybe doing the Donnington day in October, but it is just a few days before Gills birthday. So it could be her birthday surprise :)
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I think the 12v supply should be ignition controlled? but it sounds like it is. I have a simple understanding that it turns the alternator on. It is how I have my little denso alternator wired, and no issues. Unless the alternator is faulty?
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double check it has the felt seal on the dipstick, up at the "washer" that stops it gong too far. If not, make something, I have used several wraps of string as an emergency alternative, tied well so no chance of falling into the engine. Well worth trying the car with the ouil filler cap off too, feel if there is a lot of pressure in here. If so, it way be a worn engine (exactly what I had in my toledo, it threw oil out the dipstick and burnt a LOT. Reduced consumption by half with a seal on the dipstick)
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Hmm, 3 1/2 hr drive, but very tempting......may be in the toledo again though the way things are going. Will check with the boss and report back.
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However, it is very likely the shocks are identical to those sold by all the traders at that price point. The latest batch may be slightly different though if this is a "new" issue. Springs could be a whole different matter. If the spring material (ie coil thickness, material, temper etc etc) is the same but more coils, it will be a softer spring. However, chances of the materials being the same are negligible, you are in the lap of the gods with them really until fitted. As Steve says, my dealings with Paddocks have been excellent. The one mistake they made was put right instantly. Well, first post next day.
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Just to check though, what size wheel is it? do you have a set of late 1500 spitfire 5j wheels? 175/60 tyres are available, as are 185/60. Not sure the last size would be terribly good on a 5J. And the ride will suffer as will the handling. 175/70 is the accepted "best bet" tyre, and available in lots of brands at reasonable prices. If you look to 60 profile, to get a decent tyre and avoid chinese rubber, you will be spending more than double the 175/70 tyres.
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No reason why not, what is the idea. Bear in mind you really do not want less than 60 profile unless you have rotoflexish suspension. Besides lower than 60 on 13" wheels will start to look rather "wrong"